Lift kit for M1009

Hi all,

I'm looking for a lift kit for my blazer M1009 from 85.
I have seen a lot of info here but not always clear information.

I want max a 4" kit, much more road than off road.
Some people are talking about changing brake lines, steering or driveshaft. This is a very important question for me !
What do we need to change on a 2,5" and a 4" ?

An other discussion is blocks or shackle flip.
I can't bring 4 leafs from the US to Europe, that's why I have to do it with 2 Leafs and block or shackle flip.
Blocks look more easy to instal. Is it right ? Is it a lot worse than the other option ?

The brand, I red a lot about tuff country but it's a lot more expensive than super lift and rough county.
Can we have an objective discussion about it ?

Already thanks for all your information.

Regards
Nathan

Why are you wanting the lift? If it is just for show, then go find the cheapest thing you can and slap it on there.

To fit bigger tires, then how big of tires are you going too? 33x12.50 tires will fit with no lift. Anything bigger and you start to get into the area where your axles will break if using the truck hard off road. Again, why do you want the lift?

If you are trying to bring the sagging rear end of the body up some, then Off Road Design 1" zero rate spring leaf is a great way to do that. You will need new U-Bolts for the axle to spring connection as well.

Hi,

Thanks for your answer.
I have currently 33s on it. I'm not sure if I want to swap for 35s.
I want it higher for the look, nothing more. But want to keep same comfort or even better if possible.

What would you do ?

My favorite is 2.5 lift with a shackle flip and cut to fit 35s. Minimal collateral damage in driveshafts, steering, and brake lines. Drives great and low cost.

nathus said:

...want to keep same comfort or even better if possible. What would you do ?

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A 1 or 2-1/2-inch lift can provide better comfort by allowing more uptravel in the front, if the spring rates are close to stock.
What would I do? Leave it alone. Been there, done that, so all stock springs these days. With the fenders trimmed as needed to accommodate up to 36-inch tires on 10-inch wide rims.

Use the ruff country kit , it will allow for 37 in hmmwv tires with after market wheels. No additional changes to drive shaft or other alterations. Easy kit to install.

Again,

A lot of different ideas...

More suggestions ?
Ideally I would like to hear advice from people who had a standard M1009 and did the transformation.

It's important to me because I love this car, but there is something wrong with the hight ; he is too low in his standard version.

I also red that some lift kits (leafs + blocks) are not fitting on the military - diesel version but fit on a normal K5 with gas engine.

Because I'm travelling to Florida in a couple of weeks, it's very important to me to buy exactly what I need, to be sure 100 % that it fits and to have a good appreciation about the result.
I'm planning to take the parts with me in the plane, so I can't buy something wring. Because I can't change it later.
And again, in Europe all of this is very uncommon ...

Again, thank you for your help

Nathan

nathus said:

Because I'm travelling to Florida in a couple of weeks, it's very important to me to buy exactly what I need, to be sure 100 % that it fits and to have a good appreciation about the result.
I'm planning to take the parts with me in the plane, so I can't buy something wring. Because I can't change it later.
And again, in Europe all of this is very uncommon ...

Click to expand...

You need to call ORD and order the 4" kit. This is what I have and it drives better than stock and off roads well too. I have not had to change the driveshafts and the drop pitman arm they include with the kit is sufficient to keep your steering happy. They know exactly what parts you need for the m1009. I like my shackle flip but blocks might be easier to install. Also buy the bolt in steering box brace.

nathus said:

I'm planning to take the parts with me in the plane, ...

Click to expand...

Hi Nathan,

Something to consider is what the cost will be to bring some of these parts with you vs having them shipped. Leaf springs for example are long and heavy.

You say the truck is not currently sitting well. Is it an aesthetic perspective or is it physically sitting incorrectly? I ask because these are 30 year old girls and like all of us some parts will sag with time and gravity. Can you post some pics of how she sits today and what is troubling you? It might just be that her old leaf springs are sagging and a set of "stock" replacements will do the trick.

I don't know how you'd get any sort of lift without new front springs. Other than a zero rate block or longer shackles.

Surely somebody in Europe can re-arch leaf springs, if the problem is that they're tired.

Obijuank5 said:

My favorite is 2.5 lift with a shackle flip and cut to fit 35s. Minimal collateral damage in driveshafts, steering, and brake lines. Drives great and low cost.

Click to expand...

Any pictures about this setting ?

I have contacted them by email but still no answer...
I like your truck! Are you running 35s ?
Can you give me an idea about the price you paid for the hole setting ?
I think they use Tuff country lits no ?
What did it include ?

Regards
Nathan

Actually he drives perfectly.

A little stiff in the back but is ok for me.
My "problem" is only esthetic. nothing more...
I informed to bring these parts with me and I think I am ok with the cost. It will cost me a 200 doll fee but this is still much less expesinve than order in the US and let deliver in Europe.
We have a lot of import taxe your US stuff
It would be nice if the hole thing could cost me arround 450 - 700 usd...

more suggestions ?
don't hesitate guys

nathus said:

more suggestions ?
don't hesitate guys

Click to expand...

If you do end up using lift blocks in the rear, at least make sure they're not tapered, to "restore drive line angles".
If they are, either mill them flat, or get lowering blocks instead. Lowering blocks are generally not tapered, so your U-joints will remain at equal angles.

nathus said:

Any pictures about this setting ?

Click to expand...

I have a similar setup. Front tuff country 2" lift springs. Rear is stock springs with a zero lift shackle flip and long shackles. It's a touch saggy in the back but I plan on changing out the springs to 56" ones whenever I get around to it. I've got 315/75r16 ko2 tires. The front I needed to trim the rear and the front to not rub. I cut the rear fender corner and slid it back and welded it back up. The front of the fender I just cut at an angle.

Ilikemtb999 said:

I have a similar setup. Front tuff country 2" lift springs. Rear is stock springs with a zero lift shackle flip and long shackles. It's a touch saggy in the back but I plan on changing out the springs to 56" ones whenever I get around to it. I've got 315/75r16 ko2 tires. The front I needed to trim the rear and the front to not rub. I cut the rear fender corner and slid it back and welded it back up. The front of the fender I just cut at an angle.

Click to expand...

I like yours a lot !
I don't want to cut, And I'm not sure if I want to run with 35. But this almost the look that I'm looking for.
A k5 looks taller than my M1009.
Mine is totally orignal and needs this transformation to look perfect.

I still d'ont understand Why people do shackle flip instead of using blocks. It much more work, isn't it ?

ORD answered me finally, they cannot tell me in advance if the driveshaft will still be good with a 3 or 4 " lift kit.
They don't sell blocks and it seems that the steering and brakelines will have to be adapted. While other people told there is nothing to adapt...

Still don't get it, are all the M1009 note the same ?

Regards
Nathan

The shackle flip gets you more articulation while having the option to lift it depending on which one you choose. Yes it's more work. I had blocks before and you could certainly feel the axle wrap if accelerating. They'll get you the look you're after for the cheapest and easiest way.

Rustyshackelford said:

You need to call ORD and order the 4" kit. This is what I have and it drives better than stock and off roads well too. I have not had to change the driveshafts and the drop pitman arm they include with the kit is sufficient to keep your steering happy. They know exactly what parts you need for the m1009. I like my shackle flip but blocks might be easier to install. Also buy the bolt in steering box brace.

View attachment 686470

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Hi,

You've got a 3" tuff cournty ?
with schalke flip in the back ?

I have contacted them and they sended me a quote , with blocks in my case because easier to instal and less weight for transport.

BUT I see on different websites that a tuff cournty kit cost more or less 550 usd. And they made me quote for more than 1000 usd.
They give new brakelines and extended steering but even if I add this, it's much more expensive...
The only thing I don't get is that tuff country website says that it does'nt fit on diesel engines and looks like ord is selling the same kits for my M1009.

All of this is strange...


Does somebody has bought a 3" lift kit from tuff cournty in other place than ord and intsalled it himself ?

Regards
Nathan