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Simp's Cat 7155 Swap into a M923A1

Jbulach

Jbulach

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simp5782 said:
...Redrilled the frame. I had a tough go at the drivers side, just didn't want to drill thru the frame. Even with a 200rpm 1/2" drill it just kept eating bits up. So I had to get the plasma out and pop the holes fairly quickly...

...BTW I hate cold rivets, and that's all I have to say about that....
Click to expand...
Looking good Wes!

If you ever get the chance, get a mag drill, the uses annular cutters, it makes frame work so much easier. The cutters will zip right through the frame in about 20 seconds and they will also self center on the head of those dreaded rivets and drill them out clean, in the same amount of time. Some of the best money I ever spent...

Can't wait to see you running through all those gears!
 
simp5782

simp5782

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Jbulach said:
Looking good Wes!

If you ever get the chance, get a mag drill, the uses annular cutters, it makes frame work so much easier. The cutters will zip right through the frame in about 20 seconds and they will also self center on the head of those dreaded rivets and drill them out clean, in the same amount of time. Some of the best money I ever spent...

Can't wait to see you running through all those gears!
Click to expand...
Yea. Swampdonkey said something about a mag drill. I use a torch and air chisel for cold rivets. Get it a little soft then peel it right off. Heat the back side then punch thru. I still hate em.

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simp5782

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Got the bellhousing in and mocked up for right now. I got some mounts off a Big cam engine. Single hole mount. As well as some frame mounts off a M920. I was going to try to use them but it is just too big of a bracket. I broke out some 5/8" thick x 8" wide flat bar today and got to work. At the engine being level that bellhousing mount sits 8 inches above the frame. So I cut the flat bar at 16" long so it will cover the whole frame but also allow for some adjustments up and down. I am going to put the plate on the drill press in the morning then I will tack it to the frame and drill it. Too many air lines in the way there for the plasma. Also I already cut the cab mount bracket off since the original plan I was needing that moved. but I believe now I just need to cut a straight piece off it to get rid of that angle.

Jackshaft length will be 18.8 inches long from center of the output yoke to the face of the transfer case companion flange. Easy enough to make.

On the bellhousing the issue I found is that the dowel pins on the block are larger for the SAE2 housing so I had to ditch those all together.
 

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Jbulach

Jbulach

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simp5782 said:
... At the engine being level that bellhousing mount sits 8 inches above the frame. So I cut the flat bar at 16" long so it will cover the whole frame but also allow for some adjustments up and down. I am going to put the plate on the drill press in the morning then I will tack it to the frame and drill it...
Click to expand...
Wes, I think you where fighting jack shaft vibration before? Now would be a good time to check the angle of your transfer-case input flange vs the angle of the rear face of the bell housing. You may be able to raise or hopefully lower the rear of the engine to get the u-joint angles the same. Just be careful that the drive shaft does not come out perfectly straight. I think you want at least a half of a degree on each joint
 
simp5782

simp5782

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Jbulach said:
Wes, I think you where fighting jack shaft vibration before? Now would be a good time to check the angle of your transfer-case input flange vs the angle of the rear face of the bell housing. You may be able to raise or hopefully lower the rear of the engine to get the u-joint angles the same. Just be careful that the drive shaft does not come out perfectly straight. I think you want at least a half of a degree on each joint
Click to expand...
Vibration this past time was from a bad output wear ring. I was able to move the jackshaft up and down on the transmission side. Transfer cases only sit in 1 spot as the mounts are flush on the frame. The vibration before was from stripped out transfer case mount bolts that let it cause that output angle to be harder.

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Jakelc15

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I think there is a jig to drill the bellhousing to change sae sizes. A couple of holes need moved or something.
Looking good so far.
When your done I need a 13 speed double over put in mine and the transfercase moved back some to accommodate!

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Jakelc15

Jakelc15

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That's not quite what I meant. I had heard a few holes don't line up in the block that have to be drilled and The dowels were different. Maybe the big cam bellhousing fits the small cam motor a little different

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simp5782

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All of the bolts for the bellhousing are the same. Only difference was those dowels. Oring for the crank is the same as well.

Well got the mounts in and bolted down for now to hold the engine up. I had some 3/4" thick rubber bushings cut today, should be ready tomorrow. I drilled 6 holes into the 5/8" vertical plate but only going to utilize 4. I drilled the old mounts out since the cold rivets were in the way. The grade 5 hardware is only for right now. My local tractor supply was out of 2inch long 1/2" bolts. and 2.5" I was irritated. Was going to drop the transmission in for an accurate line on a jackshaft length but I didn't have a soldier B and with a 1600lb transmission that wants to twist. I figured I would wait anyways. Plus I need some Grade 8 7/16" bolts from another store since TSC doesn't carry them. I don't think those mounts will have any trouble holding the engine. They are only single bolts as well. It is just a mockup right now. My jackshaft prob wont be done till Monday so this weekend I will pull the transmission back out and put the flywheel and all that stuff in so I have proper time and don't miss anything.

The engine does sit offset. 12" from drivers outside of the frame to the block and 10" from block to the outside of the frame on the passengers side. CSMDavis mentioned this morning to me. don't believe it effects me since I am going to have to drop the driveline down for the front due to the SAE1 housing being bigger.
 

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Jakelc15

Jakelc15

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Ok. My brain started working again! The bellhousing bolt to the block above the cam is about a half a hole off on a small cam and big cam.
Mounts look good. You could make a few more and sell them as a kit!
The flywheel runout is real important on a clutch but I haven't ever mounted an automatic to an 855. There are shims for it. I think under 10 thousandths is acceptable. It's a real pita.
If you have trouble finding any fasteners, let me know. I can probably usps you boxes of them!

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simp5782

simp5782

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Jakelc15 said:
Ok. My brain started working again! The bellhousing bolt to the block above the cam is about a half a hole off on a small cam and big cam.
Mounts look good. You could make a few more and sell them as a kit!
The flywheel runout is real important on a clutch but I haven't ever mounted an automatic to an 855. There are shims for it. I think under 10 thousandths is acceptable. It's a real pita.
If you have trouble finding any fasteners, let me know. I can probably usps you boxes of them!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I didn't have any issue on getting all the bolts in. I gotta tap 2 of the holes cause they had some junk in them so I left them out for now.

The CAT doesn't have a clutch or torque converter, but it does have a runout spec of .006. using a standard flywheel. The flywheel I am using is brand new and the splined adapter is used. so I think Ill be ok.
 
simp5782

simp5782

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Transmission is in for a mock up and so I could get a driveshaft made. I lucked out on that the a tractor driveshaft is 18.25" center to center without fully being decompressed. adding a companion flange makes it so that it will fit in the 21.5" distance between the transmission and transfer case. I am going to flip the rear mount on the transmission so It can have proper support. I believe I am going to raise the cab and hood an inch. This should be simple since I am going to have to raise the rear cab support cross member to clear the trans anyway. Just drill all the mounting holes an inch higher.
 

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Csm Davis

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simp5782 said:
The engine does sit offset. 12" from drivers outside of the frame to the block and 10" from block to the outside of the frame on the passengers side. CSMDavis mentioned this morning to me. don't believe it effects me since I am going to have to drop the driveline down for the front due to the SAE1 housing being bigger.
Click to expand...
Simp check the clearance on the flange of the front axle to the motor, not sure if the driveshaft or the chunk was reason for offset engine.

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74M35A2

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This is cool. We can all tell him what to do from states away. Here, I'll go next:

Hey Simp, put some rubber in between those rear mounts.

He's further along than I am. All I have done is buy a 6 bolt PTO cover plate and some new split lock washers for my Road Ranger.

Would suck a big banana if you get it all in and only reverse works. Maybe I could actually beat you then though.
 
simp5782

simp5782

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74M35A2 said:
This is cool. We can all tell him what to do from states away. Here, I'll go next:

Hey Simp, put some rubber in between those rear mounts.

He's further along than I am. All I have done is buy a 6 bolt PTO cover plate and some new split lock washers for my Road Ranger.
Click to expand...

you don't put the rubber mounts in until you are ready to bolt it all down finally Snowman. No sense of tightening those rubber mounts over and over again just weakens them. Plus I don't need it bolted down for a "mock up" since I had to pull the bellhousing back off to seal it up and tap a few holes. You better step it up the GA rally is coming up soon.
 
simp5782

simp5782

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Oh and things happen to you northern boys down in the Georgia woods. Just ask swampdonkey.
 
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