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Rebuilding air compressor on M923A2 rebuild kit information

simp5782

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Bumping this hoping for help from you SIMP.
Does the compressor continue to stay on when you remove the unloader signal line ? Do you have air going to the compressor on that line when the governor hits the blow off pressure?
 

CARMAN

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Does the compressor continue to stay on when you remove the unloader signal line ? Do you have air going to the compressor on that line when the governor hits the blow off pressure?
Will take a peak. Best place to remove is at the dryer?
 

CARMAN

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Going to look at truck after work today. So you are saying if I remove the signal line off top of compressor it should not run?
 

simp5782

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Going to look at truck after work today. So you are saying if I remove the signal line off top of compressor it should not run?
Call my 8701 number when you are looking at it like a monkey doing a math problem. I'll be on the road all day
 

simp5782

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Going to look at truck after work today. So you are saying if I remove the signal line off top of compressor it should not run?
The line from the governor to the unloader. Should pressurize at 120 to 125 or whatever your governor is set at to purge the air dryer. This sends pressure to the unloader for it to disengage the compressor. It maintains the pressure to the unloader until the cut in pressure is reached then it drops the air and the compressor comes on.

Your main and secondary tanks can be at 120psi all day long but your wet tank supplies air to the governor thru the ppv. Not the main and secondary tanks. So you need to find your leak on the wet tank side. Which is either in the emergency gladhand lines or on your transfer case or In your dash. It only takes a little leak for the wet tank to drop quickly.and the unloader to drop to the cut in pressure.

This was brought up by a member who bought a m322 trailer in California cause his air dryer would purge every 2 to 3 mins but his tanks held steady. It was due to the fact that the wet tank was dropping but the other tanks held due to the check valves working properly.

Testing and diagnostics is to rig up a air gauge to check wet tank pressure at the tank to see what the tank has for pressure when the compressor is running and cuts off cuts back in. As well as Rig up the gauge to the unloader signal line to ensure it is operating correctly when the pressure hits that it is sending air to the unloader and what pressure it is cutting out at
 

CARMAN

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The line from the governor to the unloader. Should pressurize at 120 to 125 or whatever your governor is set at to purge the air dryer. This sends pressure to the unloader for it to disengage the compressor. It maintains the pressure to the unloader until the cut in pressure is reached then it drops the air and the compressor comes on.



Your main and secondary tanks can be at 120psi all day long but your wet tank supplies air to the governor thru the ppv. Not the main and secondary tanks. So you need to find your leak on the wet tank side. Which is either in the emergency gladhand lines or on your transfer case or In your dash. It only takes a little leak for the wet tank to drop quickly.and the unloader to drop to the cut in pressure.

This was brought up by a member who bought a m322 trailer in California cause his air dryer would purge every 2 to 3 mins but his tanks held steady. It was due to the fact that the wet tank was dropping but the other tanks held due to the check valves working properly.

Testing and diagnostics is to rig up a air gauge to check wet tank pressure at the tank to see what the tank has for pressure when the compressor is running and cuts off cuts back in. As well as Rig up the gauge to the unloader signal line to ensure it is operating correctly when the pressure hits that it is sending air to the unloader and what pressure it is cutting out at
Got it. Will look again tonight ( have to work today as well ) as i was over there last night for a few hours goofing with that and several other things. Spraying more soapy water with no real results. I did here the line at the back of the t-case dash switch leaking ever so slightly but did not think that could be the culprit. What makes it hard is finding a leak under the truck when its running cause you think you may hear something but who the heck knows.
 

simp5782

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Got it. Will look again tonight ( have to work today as well ) as i was over there last night for a few hours goofing with that and several other things. Spraying more soapy water with no real results. I did here the line at the back of the t-case dash switch leaking ever so slightly but did not think that could be the culprit. What makes it hard is finding a leak under the truck when its running cause you think you may hear something but who the heck knows.
Do you have a air compressor there? You need to pressurize it and leave the truck turned off. You will find stuff easier

Or bring it up to pressure and turn it off. You are only searching for leaks on the lines that should be yellow. That is the pressure protection side.

Does your transfer case leak oil at all?
 

simp5782

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Got it. Will look again tonight ( have to work today as well ) as i was over there last night for a few hours goofing with that and several other things. Spraying more soapy water with no real results. I did here the line at the back of the t-case dash switch leaking ever so slightly but did not think that could be the culprit. What makes it hard is finding a leak under the truck when its running cause you think you may hear something but who the heck knows.
Also which line on the t case switch was leaking. You should only have air on one of them. If it's on both of them this could be the sign of a pressurized transfer case where air is getting by the interlock solenoid on top and going into the case and then back up the switch line. It's possible. Why I asked if it leaks. Usually when the transfer case pressurized thru a bad interlock it usually leaks and the wipers would move real slow even on high

Transfer case then vents to atmosphere and your small wet tank pressure drops quickly
 

CARMAN

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135
43
Location
Broad Run VA
Do you have a air compressor there? You need to pressurize it and leave the truck turned off. You will find stuff easier

Or bring it up to pressure and turn it off. You are only searching for leaks on the lines that should be yellow. That is the pressure protection side.

Does your transfer case leak oil at all?
Yes have a compressor. No leaks on the transfer case. Air leak is on the back of the dash switch but not sure what side. No leaks you can hear after truck is aired up and shut off accept that switch on dash and that leak is hard to hear unless your head is under there. No wiper leaks. I soaped up all lines on the firewall last night and zero leaking. I can swear I hear air leaking somewhere on top of the trans. when the truck is running but can not find it as it may just be the flywheel spinning.
 

simp5782

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Yes have a compressor. No leaks on the transfer case. Air leak is on the back of the dash switch but not sure what side. No leaks you can hear after truck is aired up and shut off accept that switch on dash and that leak is hard to hear unless your head is under there. No wiper leaks. I soaped up all lines on the firewall last night and zero leaking. I can swear I hear air leaking somewhere on top of the trans. when the truck is running but can not find it as it may just be the flywheel spinning.
Nothing on top of the transmission has air except the 2 lines that go from both tanks to the foot pedal. They can leak thru themselves. I have seen them leak right thru the cotton jacket in the form of a million soap bubbles right on the line. The hydraulic hose underneath cracks and you cant tell it so spray those cotton jacket lines.
 
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