Debris in the return line check valve (CUCV)

(Taken from a prev post. I didnt think the subject matched the question and would be hard to find if searched so I gave the question a new subject)

So....

for the past few months I'll drive the blazer around and occassionally I need to unscrew the the return line check valve and blow it out with some choke and carb spray. A bunch of tiny coffe ground debris comes out and I then reinstall and along my merry way I go for awhile. Then the rough idleing and loss of power returns. Weeks usually go by and I might have to do it again. Then this past week Ive had to do it every other day.

Ive heard the thoughts on changing all those lines but is it really the problem? If they had deteriorated so badly I would think there would be fuel leaking from one of the injector return lines.

Breaking the bead inside the check valve is not an option as previously posted since this affects the cold advance and makes cold starts even harder on the motor.

How old are the rubber hoses in question, Twenty years? If it is those hoses, you will eventually get a leak so just be patient. They might be difficult to change out and you seem to be able to get your truck running doing what you are doing and if the problem is something else, you won't have wasted your time on those hoses.

Had a reuild dude till me theres a fiberous seal inside where some kind of rods or some magic pump fairies beat up and down. After 20+yrs the ring hath died, this was a common prob with a simple fix: rebuild said pump with a better rubber seal.
One shop quoted me $960 to pull out, rebuild and install which aint too bad from some previous posts. I aint too scared to pull it and put it on, HOWEVER, timing it might be beyond my scope. Is this somethin you gurus can walk me thru or do I hand the man my tax check?

I fogot to mention that the pump leaks into the motor valley as of last summer. I realize this too is also pertty common and is indicitive of a pump that needs rebuilding soon.

Prior to removal take a chisle and make an index mark on the pumpflange where it meets the timing cover. When you re-install the pump just match the index point you made and it will be in the same position.
Once it is back together and running you can fine tune if needed.