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Thread: M135 M211 2 speed transfer case mod

  1. #101
    4 Star General rustystud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUUANE View Post
    Parts/machining plus notable mention is fine by me brother.
    You know I could really use a good detailed breakdown of what you did. With lots of pictures !
    If I ever get the chance to rebuild a M135, I would want to modify the transfer-case like you did.

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  3. #102
    Colonel DUUANE's Avatar
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    Hopefully over christmas ill have a couple of days to get this closer to completion on the inside..i dont think a full tutorial on making a cover is needed but ill include it. At the end maybe the moderators can clean up the thread and it can be a sticky if everything works out.

  4. #103
    Colonel DUUANE's Avatar
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    Default 2019 update

    Well..Santa was late with my parts..spent fully half the day diving all over the dark side of surrey and finally found some keys..so i got 4.
    Part number 302-091. Best i could do.. Cullen Diesel supplied a genuine effort and dug through the back room for a full 30 mins with no joy..Cat parts guy just gave me a blank stare..the girls ar Raider-Hansen were more interested in talking to their "favorite" regulars and couldnt find any listings for woodruf keys..Gregg Distributors found the right part number..but 4 days out.

    Finally Alder Auto parts had them..i should have known it all along..
    I also stopped by the USA border to pick up my flywheel and flywheel housing that are going to work perfectly..all thats left is to source the starter part number..1974 c60 366/427 with allison trans.

    *rubs hands together and smiles*
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  6. #104
    4 Star General USMC 00-08's Avatar
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    Did you ever check to see what "yellow metal" is in these transfer cases?
    02-1952 M135 W/O #5314 - Reg. #4G3868 (winch added at some point in its life)
    01-1952 M135 W/O #4984 - Reg. #41143???
    12-1951 M135 W/O #3194 - Reg. #41122836 945th Maint Co, 945th Antiaircraft Artillery Bn., Milford Delaware
    11-1951 M135 W/O #556 - Reg. #41121215 5th Army, 816th Quartermaster, Ft. Leonard Wood

    Video of #4984 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FUElX_64i4
    Video of #5314 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYMiR2DT7Fo

  7. #105
    Colonel DUUANE's Avatar
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    Yes Sir i did. I cant see any yellow metal what so ever in there..its all steel shafting and bearings. Probably why its such a robust unit.

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  9. #106
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    Default Spring ahead..

    Well my masters finally gave me a few days off to play in my own shop..i managed to make some new gaskets and start roughing in the new pto cover. Tomorrow ill get onto assembling the gearing and check the fit on those keys i picked up.
    If all goes well some more pics and i can start on the shift fork modification.

    Thanks for the patience everyone..its been a long winter.
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  10. #107
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    Default The meat of the pudding

    Okee dokee..so this is the spacer that goes between the back side of the front bearing and the front side of the first gear in the cluster. Its the second hardest part to deal with in reassembling the (former) pto gear cluster on the shaft in the case. Best bet is to load the cluster into the case (all 3 gears together) then rotate them up out of line with where the shaft goes through,then slip the spacer in against the bearing with your left hand and hold it in place while you rotate the cluster back in line. You wont be able to get it in with the cluster in place.
    Use your right hand to apply pressure to the front gear to hold the spacer in place while you reach around with your left hand..finger or 2 through the center of the front bearing to support the spacer from outside the case.
    Once you are in this position you can slide the shaft in trom the back just far enough so that it supports the spacer, but leaves you enough room at the back to slide in the infamous "key" with a set of long needle nosed pliers..be patient..have a magnetic pick up tool and some reasonably stiff wire..you WILL drop it into the case and gear a few times ..i did..just say a few choice words and keep track of it and victory will be yours. The key is the worst of it..once you get it started you can use a dead blow hammer to gently tap everything home.
    GENTLY. Always checking for rotation and that that darn spacer didnt drop down off the land on the shaft because you pulled it too far back while you were fidling with that key.
    A good way to check that everything it 10-10 is that the front bearing isnt moving..if it starts to walk forward..stop and check things out. Go slow..sip coffee and all will be as it should.
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    Last edited by DUUANE; 03-09-2019 at 06:23.

  11. #108
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    Heres the slot in the shaft where the key goes, the key in place in the shaft, and how it looks when the shaft is keeping the spacer in place. Not a lot of room.. but do-able. You could probably do this with the front bearing removed, but this works fine..just be patient and dont force/beat on anything.
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  12. #109
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    First pic is looking from outside..clearance is fine..second pic is looking back through the top cover..again lots of clearance..its hard to tell but there is more clearance to the case than the stock gears have so we are good. Third pic is how the cluster all stacks up..nice and tidy.
    Tomorrow night after the fun in the yard with the crane and the torch dies down ill try and get on the install of the other shaft and the shifter rods..i have more gaskets to carefully remove and copy as well.

    Stay tuned.

    Cheers
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  13. #110
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    I'm getting things in a different order than you would do if you were following this step by step..but it has to happen this way. Theres no way to measure for the relief in the cover untill i have the gears assembled in the case. Once i have those numbers i can remove the shafts (again aaaahhhhh!!!) And drill and tap the extra hole for the cover since we eliminated one in enlarging the opening for the new gear.
    At the end maybe the moderators can clean this thread up a bit so its more of a straight line.

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