Automatic transfer switch MEP-803a house backup

Daybreak said:

Howdy,
A possible source of water back into your unit.

With a exhaust stack that long, you will have incredible amounts of condensation forming and rolling back down the pipe. It just will not get hot enough to evacuate all the water. You have no means of a water trap. You would be better off with a TEE right out side and a short pipe maybe 12" going down with a cap and screw hole to drain water from your stack. An example would be a air compressor line with a water collection drain.

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Yes AND why I'm saying to insulate it all the way up. Let the moisture go out because any condensation you have in the exhaust will collect soot and unburned fuel. It will make a mess inside the pipe.

This is why I don't recommend going larger on an exhaust pipe. That slows down the gas velocity.

Keep it hot and keep it flowing fast.

I will keep an eye on it. If I see a condensation issue, I will replace the 90 with a Tee. I think the employ of a pipe notcher and some light welding would get the job done.

If you have kids that are young they will only touch the exhaust once!

I finally got some time to look in to my transfer switch and to see how things work.... I am starting to understand how the transfer part of the switch works. where is a video of how it works. I am planning to get the INOVA HIGHTECH MEP Generator Transfer Switch Controller to go along with my setup. I plan to connect all the options except for the auto start. Gen start will be manual.

The load shed module is powered by 12v from the generators battery. only if it is going to be used.

https://youtu.be/rT_3JYZS9Mg

That''s pretty nice, it has a built-in ALS controller. Can't complain about that! If you mount the ATS close enough to your main panel, you can swap some of the breakers to LS breakers and cut out unwanted load to protect against tripping the overload breaker on your genset.

Is there a way to manually transfer? In case the relay malfuctions?

TheAlfredo said:

Is there a way to manually transfer? In case the relay malfuctions?

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Most ATS units have the ability to be transferred manually. The correct procedure MUST be followed for safety reasons.

Yes, It has the ability to be manually transfer. This particular brand has a small rod you insert into the lever to switch it over. If you are interested, I can post a quick video.

Quick update.... I was finally able to get the Transfer switch installed and separated the neutral and ground in the breaker box. Next I will be connecting the Generator to the switch and installing the automatic transfer switch controller. I am going to do a temporary hookup for now and in the spring do the permanent install.

Triple Jim said:

You might consider writing clear and simple step by step instructions on how to go to generator power during an outage. I did that a few years ago, and got my wife and kids to practice the procedure a couple times. They keep the instructions handy, and use them. I was out for an hour or two one time, and came home to hear my 003A running, and everything had been done correctly.

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This is cheap insurance. An hour of working something up, printing it out and doing SEVERAL dry runs, could save you possibly thousands of dollars and who knows how much time and effort. Cheap insurance. Gen set start instructions just need to be printed from the -10 manual.

snider said:

Quick update.... I was finally able to get the Transfer switch installed and separated the neutral and ground in the breaker box. Next I will be connecting the Generator to the switch and installing the automatic transfer switch controller. I am going to do a temporary hookup for now and in the spring do the permanent install.

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How did the inspection go?

Good so far. I didn't do the install myself.... I would have but I didn't want to take a chance of doing something wrong or missing something. Plus some requirements have changed and I didn't know. so I had a licensed electrician do the install. I helped. LOL. I'm going to do the last bit myself and then have that checked off.

snider said:

Good so far. I didn't do the install myself.... I would have but I didn't want to take a chance of doing something wrong or missing something. Plus some requirements have changed and I didn't know. so I had a licensed electrician do the install. I helped. LOL. I'm going to do the last bit myself and then have that checked off.

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I would like to do an ATS but a 200a switch would never pass inspection here with a 10kw generator. I will be interested what is said on your final if they look at the generator capacity.

few things that made a difference for me. also its different in different areas. My generator is not going to be 100 present automatic. I'm not connecting the auto start signal to the generator. the Gen capacity was brought and compared to the homes power requirements. I Hope nothing changes.......

1. The switching is 100% auto but I will have to walk out to the generator and turn the key to start. (I think some areas it depends if its hard wired or not)
2. Some areas require load shedding devices installed if your generator is not large enough to run your home. (I have this option if I need to use built into the transfer switch)
3. I do not have a heat pump, central A/C, or well pump. so my power requirements are a less then most. I do have electric ceiling heat but we burn firewood in the winter. I live in the mountains. Plus the MEP-803 will run more then 10kw. I've tested to 14kw just fine. 15kw is pushing limits!

The main difference is how the inspector interprets the code. The NEC clearly states that you can't have an ATS with more connected load than your generator can support.

That means you either have to have Auto load shedding to get below the generator rating or use a MTS. Saying "trust me, I'll only do it manually" may get you passed but - know the can of worms it can be.

We all know that MEPs will do more than nameplate. Unfortunately the code isn't written that way. The rating is what counts.

Make sure you have everything documented for the inspection. If there is ever an issue with an electrical problem and its noted that something doesn't meet code your homeowners insurance could be null and void. CYA best you can on that.

I'm not trying to poopoo the idea. I want you to be fully informed so you don't have problems later if you decide to sell your house or worse yet you suffer a loss and the insurance company goes after any reason to not pay (related or not).

Thanks for the info. the more I read about the load shedding, im pretty sure I'll going to go ahead and add the modules to my setup. that should solve most of my potential problems. Correct?

Yea, if you have auto load shedding you'll be able to meet the code.

Old thread but very nice summary and discussion. I’m planning on installing an 802/803 for my home this year.


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