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Thread: New FLU419 Owner, Electrical Woes

  1. #11
    4 Star General The FLU farm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtrask View Post
    I think you got your wires crossed, unless 73m819 is also a Ron.
    Bad choice of words there, considering the subject matter of this thread, Ron.
    Anyway, yes, Ron is also a Ron.

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    Thanks for the help everyone! I couldn't get the relay locally so I am waiting for one to arrive. Pulling that alternator was a chore! I probably should have dropped the front bucket and tilted the cab.

    What car batteries are you guys running? I have the wrong size lead acid batteries right now and I want to switch to AGM batteries that fit in the battery box. I looked in the TM and couldn't find reference to a battery size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Walker View Post
    Thanks for the help everyone! I couldn't get the relay locally so I am waiting for one to arrive. Pulling that alternator was a chore! I probably should have dropped the front bucket and tilted the cab.

    What car batteries are you guys running? I have the wrong size lead acid batteries right now and I want to switch to AGM batteries that fit in the battery box. I looked in the TM and couldn't find reference to a battery size.
    It is a 6T, they are not cheap. I think it is the same as in HMMV and other military vehicles. There are a lot of posts in Steel Soldiers on options. O'Rielly's and NAPA have lead acid batteries look in their commercial battery section.
    Last edited by rtrask; 11-15-2017 at 11:57. Reason: add info on auto parts stores

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Walker View Post
    What car batteries are you guys running? I have the wrong size lead acid batteries right now and I want to switch to AGM batteries that fit in the battery box. I looked in the TM and couldn't find reference to a battery size.
    I put two Optima Group 31s in the Winter SEE. Lots of room left over, and could get rid of the slider setup since it's no longer needed.
    If you have the patience to look for them, there are photos on the "owners thread", from about two years ago.

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    Replaced that relay and now most of my electrical works! I have a new old stock wiring harness to replace the chewed up wires, after that I should be in business. Thanks!

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    The FLU farm (12-09-2017)

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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    I have good reason to believe that the regulator behind the alternator is to blame, and it could be part of the cause in your case, too. But the Volt meter should still show battery voltage whether the charging system works or not.
    Unfortunately, many (okay, most) recent GP sales of FLUs came complete with rodent damage to the wiring. It's really only a matter of how extensive it is.
    Do you have any more insight as to why a faulty regulator would lead to this issue of no dash power?

    I have the same issue as Jon did but I do have power to the high beam indicator and the charging control light comes on. My harness is uncut/not-rat eaten so I've got that going for me. No instrument gauges work including instrument lights in the combination gauge. The dash indicator lights for PTO, P-brake, etc do function. I've pulled the dash and traced power through the ignition switch to the combination instrument gauge which is a good 24.7v, the wire ohm'd good as well. The voltmeter gauge shows nothing. I'm at a loss unless this alternator regulator is to blame. Is there any way to test it?
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    Uh, oh. I'd managed to forget about FLU electrical ailments.
    Yes, the Winter SEE still wants to over charge, but it's become second nature to wiggle the main power cut-off key until it shapes up.

    Hopefully someone with more recent knowledge/better memory will chime in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzzytoaster View Post
    Do you have any more insight as to why a faulty regulator would lead to this issue of no dash power?

    I have the same issue as Jon did but I do have power to the high beam indicator and the charging control light comes on. My harness is uncut/not-rat eaten so I've got that going for me. No instrument gauges work including instrument lights in the combination gauge. The dash indicator lights for PTO, P-brake, etc do function. I've pulled the dash and traced power through the ignition switch to the combination instrument gauge which is a good 24.7v, the wire ohm'd good as well. The voltmeter gauge shows nothing. I'm at a loss unless this alternator regulator is to blame. Is there any way to test it?
    Hi Fuzzy,
    Have you had in luck in tracking down the problem? I have gotten busy with other stuff, but I believe that I have a similar problem because may of my panel lights, and the gauges don't function. There are some (?? unexpected at least for me ??) relationships in how the components are wired that likely play a part. Here is a bit of my saga so far.

    The problem set out to solve was the starter button not working. The first Issue I found was the heavy 4A wire 11 (position 1 on the 8 wire plug) coming off of the positive terminal on the starter had gotten hot at some time and the whole plug was in bad shape and the wire was unplugged. After fixing that, all of the gauges pegged out at their highest reading on the instrument cluster, but the starter button still did nothing.
    24_Volt_Starting_System_SEE_inColor.jpg instrumentcluster.jpg
    Tracing backward from the starter button, wire 211 goes to the "default on" (terminal 87a) on the no repeat starter relay (refer to diagram). The no repeat starter relay was powered on breaking the default on connection to the starter button. The relay (terminal 86) was getting powered by wire 342 which connects to wire 34 which comes from the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster was powered from the key switch line 37. After disconnecting line 37 from the key switch the starter button finally worked so the problem was that 34/342 was grounding through the relay I reconnected line 37 from the key switch, and traced wire 342/34 after the plug to where it connects to the alternator. I pulled the alternator and discovered that someone had left it in a sorry state. While I had the alternator off I tested it. according to TM-5-2420-224-34
    Test stator (5) as follows (note each reading):

    • Connect one ohmmeter lead to bare metal surface on stator lamination (6).
    • Connect other lead to each of four stator (5) terminals.

    High resistance reading should be obtained each time. If there is no reading or ohmmeter reads zero, replace stator (5).

    When I tested it there was infinite resistance between the terminals and the stator lamination. So I found a good deal on an alternator off of E-Bay, put everything back together the way it should be, and now the starter button works, the gauges are at zero but do not work, the tach controlled by the alternator works, the alternator gauge seems to react, and some of the indicator lights work the turn signal indicator lights don't work, I think the oil pressure low indicator light is coming on (even though I don't think it has low oil pressure). Bottom line, I think I started further behind you but now I am at a similar state as you with the gauges and panel lights. I suspect it is a grounding issue but that has yet to be proven. If you have gained any insight since your original post I would love to hear from you. I don't think it is the voltage regulator, but I might swap the original one back in to the new alternator to see if that makes a difference.

    One of the first things I did (and I think it was a good first step) was to dis-assemble both fuse panels and wiring harness plugs, clean all contacts with vinegar/salt bath followed by a good scrub with a copper wire brush and a baking soda bath to clean and neutralize the vinegar acid. After reassembly a lot of things seemed to work better, exterior lights and turn signals windshield wiper, horn etc. but that did not effect the panel lights and gauges.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The FLU farm View Post
    Uh, oh. I'd managed to forget about FLU electrical ailments.
    Yes, the Winter SEE still wants to over charge, but it's become second nature to wiggle the main power cut-off key until it shapes up.

    Hopefully someone with more recent knowledge/better memory will chime in.
    Hi FLU farm
    Can you verify what the proper behavior of the alternator gauge is? After I turn on the master disconnect, and turn the key switch to on the alternator gauge shows ~ 25 volts. When I start it and bring the rpms up to 8K it goes up above 28 volts which seems a bit high. While running I think it stays up above 28 volts and never drops down. I intend to put a volt meter on it to see if it matches what the alternator gauge says, but thought it best to get what the normal behavior is from some one with multiple FLU scalps on their belt.

  11. #20
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    That sounds like it's working like it should. You'll see about 14 on a 12 Volt system, and 28 on a 24 Volt system.

    In contrast, with the Winter SEE, after having a cup of coffee while the oil pressure gauge catches up, I rev it just enough to make the charging kick on (and I'm sure you meant 0.8K). Normally it sits around 26-28 Volts for a while, then starts climbing. It'll peg the gauge if I let it.

    Wiggling the master switch a few times brings it back from "run-away mode", but then it goes to at about 24, which isn't enough.
    The problem is that for the first 15-20 minutes it can start climbing again, numerous times. With the old lead acid batteries I'd notice the smell if I wasn't in the cab, not so with the Optimas.

    Anyway, it's second nature now to keep an eye on the gauge, and I can also hear if the voltage starts climbing - it changes the engine rpm a bit.
    Other than the batteries themselves, and the gauges, I don't think the over voltage can hurt anything, if nothing else is on.

    Of course, there's no need to look at the gauge when the wipers and heater fan are on, like when running the snow blower. Then the wipers provide a very obvious visual clue, and the fan an audible version, when they enter warp speed.

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