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Thread: Waterlogged 803a

  1. #41
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    These were almost all stacked two high and some three high. They said it was because of lack of space. The sheet metal wasn't awful. Pictures did show most of that. What they didn't show (and makes me really glad I went to look) was missing parts on a lot of units. Some of the ones were obvious parts units, but were missing things off the motors as well. Units that looked complete in pictures were missing parts in the control panel, and the only way to find out was open them in person!

  2. #42
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Truth in advertising, at its best!

  3. #43
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    So I finally got around to swapping motors last week. It wasn't bad at all. It took about 8 hours I'd say. I ended up with a used engine for $700 to put in this. With purchase price being low as beat up as it was it will still be a worthwhile investment.

    I did it a little different than recommended. I removed stator and rotor from the motor while it was mounted. Then I was able to lift motor and swing it sideways very carefully and remove it without removing the radiator, shroud, fan, or doors. The piece that holds the doors on goes up and over the flywheel, but with some careful maneuvering it will come out with no damage to anything. New engine went back in the same way.

    The worst part was getting the gen head apart. The end cap was rusted on and had to be heated with a torch to get it to release from the stator. I made a puller that threaded into the rotor and couldn't get it to move till I heated the rust around the outside. The rotor would not come off either after all five mounting bolts were off. I ended up threading a slide hammer into the center of the rotor. After several minutes of yanking it finally came free.

    Sheet metal is not back together yet, but engine is in and all bolted up with all wiring complete. I want to fire it up before finishing the sheet metal.

    Here is the kicker. It has been over a year since I looked at this. The head has been off with tranny fluid in the two rusted cylinders. It still won't budge at all! I tried the flywheel with a large prybar and a long breaker bar on the front. This thing is really stuck! I kept the head but the block is headed to the scrap pile as soon as I pull the few usable pieces off it.

  4. #44
    4 Star General Guyfang's Avatar
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    Before you junk it, tear it apart and look at what's wrong.

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  6. #45
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    Center two cylinders are rusted solid. Tranny fluid sitting in them for a year and not a drop made it past the rings

  7. #46
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    Joe, I dropped the ball on getting back to you about this block. When I was diagnosing mine that was stuck, I waited a few days and couldn't take it anymore. I had a port power and a low profile mini ram. It only has a 2" stroke. Fabbed up some brackets, bolted them down with the head bolts and slowly applied pressure. It popped and was able to finally see inside the cylinders to identify a cracked block. But, at least I knew. Food for thought.
    Quote Originally Posted by smokem joe View Post
    Center two cylinders are rusted solid. Tranny fluid sitting in them for a year and not a drop made it past the rings

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  9. #47
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    I could put it in my press and pop them free I'm pretty sure. But even if they were free I wouldn't use it without a rebuild. It's just faster and easier for me to throw another engine in it rather than screw with it. I may throw some evaporust in those 2 cylinders to see what happens before I scrap it.

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