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Another LMTV RV Build

Z

zx9rpilot

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Huntsville AL
Storage cabinets. The mattress/pillows need to be moved before the roof can be lowered. I figure there could be multiple laser detectors like with a garage door opener to make sure it is safe to lower the roof. The actuators would need to be good to about 1000 lbs each with one in all four corners and if anything were in the way of the roof lowering the actuators would probably cause serious structural damage.
bed cabinets.jpg
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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In the beginning the biggest issues with a Hi-Lo type campers was a raising/lowering tweak (one side or corner ascending/descending at different rate due to snag orr??? etc) causing major damage. IMHO Design, build, test many times to make sure you got it right to avoid repeating history
 
BuiltMFG

BuiltMFG

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148
5
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Denver, CO
coachgeo said:
In the beginning the biggest issues with a Hi-Lo type campers was a raising/lowering tweak (one side or corner ascending/descending at different rate due to snag orr??? etc) causing major damage. IMHO Design, build, test many times to make sure you got it right to avoid repeating history
Click to expand...
I agree, there has to be some mechanism in place to make sure it all lowers and raises at the same rate.
 
R

Rebuilder

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Minnesota
The Hi-Lo brand campers use a single hydraulic ram to pull 4 cables. Works good and not much to go wrong. It uses gravity to retract so if something does get in the way it's really easy to just hit the up button to go back up.
 
Reworked LMTV

Reworked LMTV

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TN
What CAD/CAM software are you using?
BuiltMFG said:
I've been lurking here for a while and wanted to thank the the SS folks for their knowledge as well post my slow-roast of a build.

I bought a 2002 1078A1 just over a year ago and between my day job and fighting with the county about where I can park it has made things difficult when it comes to working on it. So I can only work on this thing when weather permits making progress slow (but Denver weather hasn't been too bad). I am currently building out the cab while planning for the habitat. I'm a designer/creative director so my occupation allows me to develop graphics for the truck as well as have the knowledge of mediums to build some parts. I am not, however, a diesel mechanic nor do I posses the knowledge to build some of the things I want to. So I have to lean on some vendors and friends to make things happen.

The truck was missing a cover where the 50 cal was so I created a moon roof to let some more light in.
View attachment 715267

Currently I have removed the dash and powder coated it and hope to install it this weekend. This process was brought on by a new AC system which made sense to tear it down at the same time. I've done a little electrical based on this teardown as well as some sound deadening (both behind the dash and to the interior).
View attachment 715265View attachment 715266

The electrical I have done was to create a simple switch so that all of the lights can be turned on at once.
View attachment 715268

So the habitat portion is pretty far out of my wheelhouse but I'm going to purchase plans from Overland Adventure Truck to build the subframe. I've slowly been learning about building campers and I'd really like to build a HiLo style camper on the back of the truck. I've used sketchup to layout some of the bottom portion of this style of camper. These are just some rough preliminary images so I can figure out what will fit and what won't. Still sorting this out but currently there is a queen size bed, wet bath and refrig/freezer. The oven is probably coming out and I've yet to really finish this enough to build the top. The ultimate goal is to make this a live work space for me, the date to finalize this is still undecided but i was hoping for Summer of 2019.
View attachment 715269View attachment 715270View attachment 715271
Love to hear your suggestions on how to lift the top of this guy. As well as any concerns you might have.

I'll regularly been sharing what I have learned as well as some of what I already know on builtmfg.com. Please let me know if you see anything that doesn't add up, I don't want to put any misinformation out there.
Thanks
Click to expand...
 
BuiltMFG

BuiltMFG

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148
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Denver, CO
So I'm noticing the fenders are just not made for the vehicle and I'm struggling with what to do next. here’s the deal... the one on the left is bolted on the top and front... notice the bend? The one on the right is only bolted on the top. So here is the question... do reinforce the underside of the fender with steel and push it out, which might make it break later... Or do i cut my losses and just rebuild the thing out of steel?

1EBD404D-E116-4559-BA1B-3B2720C0762A.jpg
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

Well-known member
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North of Cincy OH
BuiltMFG said:
So I'm noticing the fenders are just not made for the vehicle and I'm struggling with what to do next. here’s the deal... the one on the left is bolted on the top and front... notice the bend? The one on the right is only bolted on the top. So here is the question... do reinforce the underside of the fender with steel and push it out, which might make it break later... Or do i cut my losses and just rebuild the thing out of steel?... [img....]
Click to expand...
Maybe a quality Heat gun...... manipulate it out. let it cool. re-evaluate..... heat gun her and bend more/lesss??? Keep tweaking till satisfied.... then re-affix it. Not sure if Heat gun will let one massage that thick stuff but worth a try.
 
Last edited:
Duckworthe

Duckworthe

Member
329
22
18
Location
San Diego, Ca
Heatgun is what I did and it worked for a while until it got hot in the sun and just went back to having a warped lower side area. I cut aluminum diamond plate and attached it to the top edge from the door step all the way up to the rear. That helped it a lot and also protects it from boots and shoes on the daily climb in, out and onto the roof rack.
 
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