CCKW bell housing removal

what tips does anyone have on removing the bell housing on my CCKW engine?

its badly greased over and Im not familiar with it.

Hi

Are you trying to remove it and leave the engine in place? Do you have the manual? There are some peculiarities to the clutch on the CCKW which makes unbolting things difficult.

I think we have some real CCKW, experts on the forum hopefully they will chime in with some comments and help.

Cheers Phil

Remove transmission. Remove clutch. Remove flywheel. Unbolt bellhousing.

Remember that at the time of the cckw, the bellhousing ALSO was the REAR MOTOR MOUNT that attacked to the frame, this means that you will need to SUPPORT the motor. tm 10-1423 ( maintenance manual for GMC 2 1/2, 5 ton trucks, pub.7/20/1942) shows the motor mount in two parts bolted to the bellhousing, the k18 was the same way as well as ALL of the older GM stuff I have worked on.

The engine is a spare that I have and it's sitting in my shop. I just want to tear it down to the block so I can put it on a stand to see if it's seized

It would have been nice to let it be known that the engine was on the ground, that news required some different answers to your question.

My mistake
its sitting on a modified 6X6 frame on the floor so as to not crush the oil pan, and I'm sure it's seized. I'm not sure if I can get at the cap bolts holding he clutch on, or the bolts on the top of he clutch. I hope to in seize it, I've sprayed PB blaster on the valves to let it soak all winter. I hope to rebuild it

Forgive my ignorance of these old engines, but is this not as simple as a breaker bar on whatever passes for a crankshaft pulley bolt and turn?

Someone has tried that. They have broken where the crank handle attaches. I have the cylinders soaking now. I will have to buy a new pulley cover what ever it is called so I can but a bar on it

dads6x6 said:

Someone has tried that. They have broken where the crank handle attaches. I have the cylinders soaking now. I will have to buy a new pulley cover what ever it is called so I can but a bar on it

Click to expand...

Hi

Keep soaking it. Have you removed the head yet? I have trick I've used successful which I'll dig out the photos of and post tomorrow.

Not surprised the front shaft or damper broke off, I've heard of this happening before on this family of engines. If you can not get the engine to turn then you reach the point where you have to decide which parts you want to save.

One alternative to consider if you can get at the bolts is to turn the engine upside down, unbolting all the main bearing caps and connecting rod caps and the front end plate which means pulling the crank cam gear. It all the bolts happen to be positioned so you can get at them then you can lift the crank and flywheel and clutch assembly out. But check my memory against the manual.

Cheers Phil


Cheers Phil

Thoughts on getting engines unstuck

Hi

While all or some of these may seem like common sense, they've worked for me.

Couple of thoughts on getting engine unstuck while minimizing additional damage:

1. Remove the head - many engines are interference design in that a valve in the open position will hit the top of piston at top of stroke. So that a stuck valve can stop an engine from turning.
2. Remove the valve lifters - as a stuck lifter can put extreme load on cam or cam gear or cam chain
3. If lifters can not be removed, they are stuck, remove cam gear, or cam chain so the cam doesn't have to turn, is engine still stuck?
4. Soak all the cylinders over and over again with your favorite penetrating solution, I happen to like ATF mixed 50/50 with Acetone. Let it soak for as long as practical.
5. If the engine will turn at all don't keep trying to move it in one direction, rotate it back and forth
6. Now for some heavy duty pushing effort- select two cylinders that are halfway through the stroke, they should 180 out on the stroke so one is going up while the other is going down.
   1. Cut a round wood slug 1/2 inch smaller diameter than the piston and 2-3 long layer of wood closest to the piston should be soft wood if possible (see picture) purpose of the wood is to spread the load evenly across the top of the piston to avoid punching a hole through the piston (don't know how I'd handle a swirl combustion piston top)
   2. Clean and mark with a magic marker other cylinder bores so you can detect movement, or measure.
   3. Using a heavy duty wheel/hub puller bolted down to the top of the engine introduce a moderate amount of force, pore in your penetrating solution again and walk away.
   4. Next day increase the pressure
   5. Move to the cylinder that is 180 out on swing and repeat the 3&4
   6. As can be seen in the picture I've used an impact wrench on the puller screw. Yes, on the third motor I tried this trick on I did strip the screw on the wheel/hub puller just as the engine was starting to turn.
   7. Once a little movement is established just keep switching cylinders so you are moving the engine back a forth while continuing to add penetrating fluid.
   8. So far this routine has worked on all 4 times I have tried it.
7. On some of the engines that I have tried this on the walls were scored and the engine needed to be bored and pistons replaced.
8. On the engine shown in these pictures, though really stuck with both pistons and valves stems stuck, the piston bores clean up with a light honing and measured as stock bore.
9. One last bit to this story is removing cylinder heads that are mounted with studs not bolts, wooden wedges driven in all the way around the head have worked for me several times, (never tried this on aluminum heads or block)

Hope this gives people some ideas, what methods have other people found successful.

Cheers Phil

It's soaking and I have all the time I need to let it soak.
Any idea where I can buy new parts so I can try to hand turn it once it soaks?

Phil
your info is valuable! Thanks I will let you know how it turns out