EZ-TCU controller for 4L80e

I know you probably already checked this, but when you set up the TCI on the handheld unit, it asks for Tire size and gear ratio. I couldn't find the tire size for the stock HMMWV tire on it. I entered 3FT diameter and 5.12 gear ratio considering the differentials and the geared hubs. The TCI readout is about 4 MPH different than the mechancal speed gauge in the dash. I'm good with that and left it the same. Also, when i called TCI, they told me that the TCI has to be wired directly to the batteries to ensure a constant power is being applied to the unit. If power is cut, it will lose any saved info that was previously entered. Mine is working fine, but I can't get the TC to Lock in overdirive. I think it only locked a few times for a few seconds. Not sure why, but I believe I have to look into a few more settings in the handheld controller unit for it. I just got mine back up and running, so its still early for me too, and I'm currently working out the kinks and fine tuning it. I hooked up a 24V to 12 Volt converter directly off the batteries and linked that directly to the TCI to ensure it always has power. I hope this helps and that you get yours working properly. These are the ****dest simple machines that make my head hurt sometimes.

nanneye said:

I know you probably already checked this, but when you set up the TCI on the handheld unit, it asks for Tire size and gear ratio. I couldn't find the tire size for the stock HMMWV tire on it. I entered 3FT diameter and 5.12 gear ratio considering the differentials and the geared hubs. The TCI readout is about 4 MPH different than the mechancal speed gauge in the dash. I'm good with that and left it the same. Also, when i called TCI, they told me that the TCI has to be wired directly to the batteries to ensure a constant power is being applied to the unit. If power is cut, it will lose any saved info that was previously entered. Mine is working fine, but I can't get the TC to Lock in overdirive. I think it only locked a few times for a few seconds. Not sure why, but I believe I have to look into a few more settings in the handheld controller unit for it. I just got mine back up and running, so its still early for me too, and I'm currently working out the kinks and fine tuning it. I hooked up a 24V to 12 Volt converter directly off the batteries and linked that directly to the TCI to ensure it always has power. I hope this helps and that you get yours working properly. These are the ****dest simple machines that make my head hurt sometimes.

Click to expand...

What I did to make it work properly was run a Dakota digital rpm module from the crank sensor and set it so the idle rpm was 700
Then I ran a Dakota digital Speedo Module and converted the rear transmission sensor output by .50 this made the speed on par within 3 miles per hour to my Speedo. It is running great. I did not have to manipulate the data entered in the Setup wizard. Also I set the shift agress ( I could be wrong on the name of this setting ) to -5 and it shifts at around 2K for all the gears. My TC is set to lockup at 50mph and my TCI TPS is set to open at 66% for the TC release. Runs great but in between my 3 and 4 shifts I have to manipulate the throttle or it roars out to 3K before shifting. On the highway it works excellent so far. My only gripe with this system is the lack of shift tuning, also if I set the max RPM to 2K it still goes past that on regular driving. I personally think this program was more suited for a gas engine than what we are using it for, I have had luck using this TCI setup in Muscle cars. I really dislike the service when I call them every time its a different answer. I had to essentially figure out the whole setup for the modules to make it work myself.

Tomorrow I am taking it for the first Real long run. If I am not satisfied I will be pulling the TCI out monday and installing a OE trans computer. Only reason I did the ez tcu was from great prior experience with hotrod installs, also my motor is hopped up (turbo modification / studs / fuel mods / injectors / downpipe and exhaust mods) and I really wanted to set it apart. PS my trans is fully built with redline clutches / 2 stage converter / and a performance vb.

Hopefully it works, if not TCI is going to hate my documentary on why I removed it.

Cracked the code. Runs Killer. I saved all the parameters for anyone needing them. Feels great.

PSI Readings at proper settings are as follows for 4l80e (for transmission shop with proper diagnostics)
Idle: 60 psi
1-2 177-188psi (regular driving / full throttle)
3-4 167-185psi (regular driving / full throttle)
T/C lockup at 53 miles per hour ACTUAL. (shows 90 miles per hour on the handheld but GPS and speedo in truck are correct within a few miles due to tires and gearing)

Go to Setup Wizard
**Fill In all data below**
Speedo : 4000ppm (Pulses per Mile)
Speedo Adjust : 0 ( do not adjust )
Tire Diameter: 38.0
Gear Ratio: 2.73 ( Diff Gear Ratio)
Max Shift RPM: 2850rpm
Lowspeed Shift: 9
Shift Aggress: 1
Shift Firmness: 2 (If it shifts too hard adjust this between 0 and 5)
6x overlap: do not adjust
Min TCC lock MPH: 80 (Actual Lockup is 53mph on ground speed)
Max TCC TPS: 70%
Performance Aggress: 5
Performance Firmness: 5

Under Dash Modules

Dakota Digital Tach Module
set to 3.98 (+/- buttons to adjust) do this with engine on once you see 600-650rpm on the TCI module stop adjusting.

Speed Module Setup Procedure:
Turn of main switch and turn off Ignition
Hold Set button and Turn on Charging port Switch at the same time
Release Set button
Go to CAL
In Cal – Set decimals as follows
Set 0.0 (main number)
Set .9 (first decimal)
Set.91 (second decimal)
Set to end
Power off Charging port switch

(This Speedo module with throw off the speed reading buy 30% on the handheld but it will allow it to shift at 1900-2300 under light throttle, and at 2950-3100 full throttle)

Perkman87 said:

Cracked the code. Runs Killer. I saved all the parameters for anyone needing them. Feels great.

No issues crisp shifts.

Speedo: 4000ppm
Speedo Adjust: 0
Tire Diameter 38 ( thats my size )
Gear ratio: 2.73
Max Shift RPM 2000rpm
Lowspeed Shift: 9
Shift aggress: -5
Shift Firmness 5
6x overlap do not adjust
Min TCC lockup 50
Max tcc TPS: 70%
Performance aggress: 5
Performance firmness: 5

Dakota Digital Tach Module: 3.98 or until you see 600-650rpm on your handheld at idle
Dakota Speedo Module: Position 1 Cal .65 (your speed on the handheld will be off by a few miles per hour but it will shift properly)

Enjoy

Click to expand...

So here is my question...

4L80 with the above controller needs exactly what to install and function?

Soup to nuts, what is required to change from TH400 to 4L80, using your setup, and including finicky small electrics and brackets and such.

What are the prices involved?

I'm about to do a swap, and I like 700R4, but 4L80 is stronger IMHO.

T

You need 3 full time mechanics and a slew of electrical knowledge.

I would not even know were to begin, we did so many custom items for this to work.

Perkman87 said:

You need 3 full time mechanics and a slew of electrical knowledge.

I would not even know were to begin, we did so many custom items for this to work.

Click to expand...

I have the electrical knowledge but my support team is just my piddly @$$.

Thanks, I guess 700R4 will be the way I go.

700r4 is great if you never plan on going offroad hard. I personally think even a built 700r will fail.

Perkman87 said:

700r4 is great if you never plan on going offroad hard. I personally think even a built 700r will fail.

Click to expand...

700R4 has a bad rep but they ain't that bad.

Mine will be rebuilt with updated internals, and I will not be crawling more than mild-mod use.

After around 330 miles of fine tuning I have found my favorite setup for this TCU. Hope this helps with anyone doing a Swap.


PSI Readings at proper settings are as follows for 4l80e (for transmission shop with proper diagnostics)
Idle: 60 psi
1-2 177-188psi (regular driving / full throttle)
3-4 167-185psi (regular driving / full throttle)
T/C lockup at 53 miles per hour ACTUAL. (shows 90 miles per hour on the handheld but GPS and speedo in truck are correct within a few miles due to tires and gearing)

Go to Setup Wizard
**Fill In all data below**
Speedo : 4000ppm (Pulses per Mile)
Speedo Adjust : 0 ( do not adjust )
Tire Diameter: 38.0
Gear Ratio: 2.73 ( Diff Gear Ratio)
Max Shift RPM: 2850rpm
Lowspeed Shift: 9
Shift Aggress: 1
Shift Firmness: 2 (If it shifts too hard adjust this between 0 and 5)
6x overlap: do not adjust
Min TCC lock MPH: 80 (Actual Lockup is 53mph on ground speed)
Max TCC TPS: 70%
Performance Aggress: 5
Performance Firmness: 5

Under Dash Modules

Dakota Digital Tach Module
*Located on right leg under dash*
set to 3.98 (+/- buttons to adjust) do this with engine on once you see 600-650rpm on the TCI module stop adjusting.

Speed Module Setup Procedure:
*Located under left leg under dash*
Turn of main switch and turn off Ignition
Hold Set button and Turn on Charging port Switch at the same time
Release Set button
Go to CAL
In Cal – Set decimals as follows
Set 0.0 (main number)
Set .9 (first decimal)
Set.91 (second decimal)
Set to end
Power off Charging port switch

(This Speedo module with throw off the speed reading buy 30% on the handheld but it will allow it to shift at 1900-2300 under light throttle, and at 2950-3100 full throttle)

Bump for New Settings and Parameters that Really wake this 4l80 up. Keeps the truck in boost, shifts are firm and the Line Pressure is excellent.

Perkman87 said:

Bump for New Settings and Parameters that Really wake this 4l80 up. Keeps the truck in boost, shifts are firm and the Line Pressure is excellent.

Click to expand...

I have an EZ-TCU with a 1995 H1. Engine swap to a 6.5 GEP and added a Super 77 turbo.

I’ve been having a time with my truck and trying to rule out potential problems (currently no reverse, random shift issues, underpowered…no one can figure it out).

In your post you mention your Speedo working? Mine does not. I took my speed sensor signal off the Tcase to the Dakota digital, then to EZ-TCU. Speed works in the hand held but no signal in the speedo (understandably). How do you have a signal with your oem speedometer? Do you have your speed buffer/ratio adapter still attached somehow, or spliced-in something?

Any info would be awesome. My transmission has been having major issues even after 3 rebuilds followed by the EZ-TCU when it was thought the old TCM and/or harness bit the dust. Ruling out stuff. It’s been a nightmare…learning a lot though!

TOBASH said:

So here is my question...

4L80 with the above controller needs exactly what to install and function?

Soup to nuts, what is required to change from TH400 to 4L80, using your setup, and including finicky small electrics and brackets and such.

What are the prices involved?

I'm about to do a swap, and I like 700R4, but 4L80 is stronger IMHO.

T

Click to expand...

TOBASH, you will be happier with a well built 4l60 (700R4) it has a higher 4th gear and you will lose less power to heat because it is a more efficient transmission.
And it will have no problem with the power and torque from your Detroit

Perkman87 said:

After around 330 miles of fine tuning I have found my favorite setup for this TCU. Hope this helps with anyone doing a Swap.


PSI Readings at proper settings are as follows for 4l80e (for transmission shop with proper diagnostics)
Idle: 60 psi
1-2 177-188psi (regular driving / full throttle)
3-4 167-185psi (regular driving / full throttle)
T/C lockup at 53 miles per hour ACTUAL. (shows 90 miles per hour on the handheld but GPS and speedo in truck are correct within a few miles due to tires and gearing)

Go to Setup Wizard
**Fill In all data below**
Speedo : 4000ppm (Pulses per Mile)
Speedo Adjust : 0 ( do not adjust )
Tire Diameter: 38.0
Gear Ratio: 2.73 ( Diff Gear Ratio)
Max Shift RPM: 2850rpm
Lowspeed Shift: 9
Shift Aggress: 1
Shift Firmness: 2 (If it shifts too hard adjust this between 0 and 5)
6x overlap: do not adjust
Min TCC lock MPH: 80 (Actual Lockup is 53mph on ground speed)
Max TCC TPS: 70%
Performance Aggress: 5
Performance Firmness: 5

Under Dash Modules

Dakota Digital Tach Module
*Located on right leg under dash*
set to 3.98 (+/- buttons to adjust) do this with engine on once you see 600-650rpm on the TCI module stop adjusting.

Speed Module Setup Procedure:
*Located under left leg under dash*
Turn of main switch and turn off Ignition
Hold Set button and Turn on Charging port Switch at the same time
Release Set button
Go to CAL
In Cal – Set decimals as follows
Set 0.0 (main number)
Set .9 (first decimal)
Set.91 (second decimal)
Set to end
Power off Charging port switch

(This Speedo module with throw off the speed reading buy 30% on the handheld but it will allow it to shift at 1900-2300 under light throttle, and at 2950-3100 full throttle)

Click to expand...

Did you get rid of the 3-4 gear flair? (what it is called when a transmission revs between shifts) that will cause rapid wear of the 4th gear clutch pack.

Mogman said:

Did you get rid of the 3-4 gear flair? (what it is called when a transmission revs between shifts) that will cause rapid wear of the 4th gear clutch pack.

Click to expand...

You probably noticed this but just in case, the posts you are replying to are about 4 years old.

springer1981 said:

You probably noticed this but just in case, the posts you are replying to are about 4 years old.

Click to expand...

That's right, TOBAS already has his 4l60 installed.... wasted days and wasted nights.....

Mogman said:

That's right, TOBAS already has his 4l60 installed.... wasted days and wasted nights.....

Click to expand...

My question was posted years ago. I went with a rebuilt and strengthened 700R4. I had it rebuilt 765R4 by Bowtie, and I had no issues. Apparently a more recent unit from them had issues as posted by another member.

My 765R4 is in my M1025 for years now working perfectly, and my M1165 has a stock 4L80e, and my civilian Hummer also has a stock 4L80e.

The 765R4 unit is flawless, and allowed me to keep the stock drive shafts and use the same tranny crossover support. Not huge things. The 765R4 also meant no computer and no fiddling with programming.

I’m happy with my choice but that doesn’t mean 4l80e is a bad way to go.