I finally started working on my M934 interior..

.... and I wanna cry.



Basically needs an entirely new interior and new seals. I was gonna get a connex and mount it but chose against that due to insulation costs... Now it's looking like a cheaper option.

The wall is bowed in some places (water swelling wood) and rotten in others. That area that I pulled off is like wet cardboard....

For what its worth, I took out all the ducking/wires out of the top and replaced with plywood, turned out nice I thought. If I was to do it again I would get better screws to go into the aluminum. I did the sides, like in your photos the same where needed. The reason I took all the wires out , they were in bad shape for the most part and I knew I was not going to drag a generator around. Good luck and like to see what you end up doing with it.

Gut the interior, replace fiberglass insulation with closed cell foam sheets and spray closed cell foam to fill in gaps. replace the interior walls with a thin steel or aluminum. Seal the roof with an elastomeric coating, and seal in the slideouts, removing the roof/ceiling/side panels. Basically, I don't want any way for moisture to get in there, but if it does, it will have nowhere to stay....as there will be nothing there to absorb it. I already pulled the ducting and got a lot of the side roof areas out... You can see the removed light assemblies in the roof area...

ProTip #1....

If the panel locks won't budge, make sure they're not already UNLOCKED before you shear a 1/2" steel insert....

ProTip #2

Don't bother trying to unscrew all the screws holding in the roof and floor panels, just use a torch.

ProTip #3

Don't leave a box of fireworks inside your truck, where molten screw heads can hit it.....


Also, the locking pins are supposed to keep the side doors from opening....They don't always work...

There is enough of a gap where the outer panel meets the roof that there is sunlight visible through the cracks.... It is NOT water/wind tight... That will have to be addressed.

The roof/ceiling sections are out.... We used a forklift to hold the roof panel in place, then torched off 100 screws, then lifted out.... and repeated the process with all 4 panels. The smaller panels were light enough to lift by hand, after 776.8 gallons of water came out of them.

Estimated 1600-2k lbs removed....

TechnoWeenie said:

ProTip #3

Don't leave a box of fireworks inside your truck, where molten screw heads can hit it.....


View attachment 725716

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I can read the classified ad now, “Ran when exploded!”


All kidding aside, I’m enjoying this thread and looking forward to more!

m715mike said:

I can read the classified ad now, “Ran when exploded!”


All kidding aside, I’m enjoying this thread and looking forward to more!

Click to expand...

Well, to be honest, I've never used a cutting torch before. So, the guy that was helping me was doing all the torch work. I was keeping an eye on things I had a couple buckets of water in case something decided that it didn't want to go out, but we are walking back and forth removing the screw heads off of opposite sections so heat didn't build up too much in one area.

Well, I walked away for about 30 seconds to plug my phone in to charge, and I start hearing what sounds like 22lr going off. So I looked around and saw a box that was partially on fire being thrown out of the open Gap where the side panel usually goes. And it just sits there on the ground fireworks going off. LOL.

We were in such a rush that we did a really bad job of clearing the work area. Apparently there are some things that shouldn't be lit on fire.

So, I have something I need input with.

The side doesn't match up with the roofline.

The sides are slightly below and away from the roof. as illustrated.


Is there another feasible way to seal the gap other than putting an L shaped sheet across the gap? How best to secure? Sealant underneath and screwed on with roofing sheet metal screws?

Ideas?

Well, I'm homeless now and have been living in it for a little over a month, and continuing the work...

There is a multi layered roof....

There is a frame, much like a connex, INSIDE the box, of which everything else is bolted or riveted onto. It's actually quite interesting. The work involved to stack the layers, must have been tedious.....

I also knew about the front hatch, as I've seen pictures and read the TMs and saw about opening the front for the ventilation..

What I didn't see, though, is that the sides of the front overhang area are also hinged, and open up..... Bonus! I just have to find a way to attach screening .....(Velcro?)

It's been interesting so far, but without money, progress will be slow.. Deconstruction is free, and relatively easy.. But spray foam closed cell insulation and interior lua ua panels will probably be close to a grand.....

So..

I'm gonna be using some galvanized flashing, 4", to close the gap, along with self tapping/sealing screws designed for flashing/roofs...

I'm also gonna get a ton of sealant, and seal the edges of the flashing, so water can't get in..

In perusing the TMs, I found quite a few things that would have helped me before I started, and I'm gonna share it here to help others diving in...

Here is a view of the ceiling with vents removed and wood removed. You can see cross beams of metal, and beam bolted to the cross member....along with wood that appears to be add'l support for the ducting. You can also see the insulation.

I started on a 3D model of the interior....

Here's the beginning....

When I get more of it done I'll link to the actual CAD file for those wishing to use it....

It's very rough right now...

I am going to have to do this to my M934 at some point. This post is very helpful, I will be keeping a close eye on it.

Techno, don't know if you surf ebay or much but there is a guy selling NOS complete window units for the 934 boxes. Good glass and paint on em. check em out.

simp5782 said:

Techno, don't know if you surf ebay or much but there is a guy selling NOS complete window units for the 934 boxes. Good glass and paint on em. check em out.

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Mine are in good condition.

The front hatch/vent might be a good idea to put one in, it just might work on the side vents too.

Thanks for the heads up!

I've been bouncing back and forth between plastic 55gal water drums, and a custom water tank.

I think 100 gallons is the minimum I'd want to carry.

Drums are cheap.

I plan on using the overhang and building out slightly to fit a queen size bed. That'll leave about 2ft overhang.


I have 3 options, as I see it.

2 drums, ea ~3' tall and 22" in diameter, when placed lengthwise, would be ~6' and 22" away from the wall and 22" high.


OR

a 7' wide by 2' deep x 12" tall custom tank... Which would be covered and used as a step.

OR

3 drums, standing upright.


I like the idea of laying drums down, as I could have the top bung be for fill, and bottom bung for output, both teed, so they'd fill and empty evenly, keeping a lower center of gravity.

Obviously, IMO, the custom water tank would be better, but you'd be looking @ ~$500, vs ~$15ea for blue water barrels

Water is HEAVY.. 8.34lbs per gallon, so 2- 55 gallon drums = 110 gallons = 917.4lbs, and 3 drums would be a staggering 1,376.1 lbs!

I could easily build a holding rack for the barrels, and make storage pockets above the drums and below the bed....

again, quick and dirty mock up... obviously not finished..




Hard to believe the bottom one is only smaller by about 5 gallons, compared to the barrels. Lots of wasted space due to them being round....

But, really hard when you're thinking $500 vs $30..... when you're on a tiny budget, heh.



Thoughts?

Being on a budget they are hard to beat. Plus if you ever have a problem they are cheap to replace.

Any particular reason you want the tanks inside, rather than mounted along the outside edges of the truck frame?

TechnoWeenie said:

Well, to be honest, I've never used a cutting torch before. So, the guy that was helping me was doing all the torch work. I was keeping an eye on things I had a couple buckets of water in case something decided that it didn't want to go out, but we are walking back and forth removing the screw heads off of opposite sections so heat didn't build up too much in one area.

Well, I walked away for about 30 seconds to plug my phone in to charge, and I start hearing what sounds like 22lr going off. So I looked around and saw a box that was partially on fire being thrown out of the open Gap where the side panel usually goes. And it just sits there on the ground fireworks going off. LOL.

We were in such a rush that we did a really bad job of clearing the work area. Apparently there are some things that shouldn't be lit on fire.

Click to expand...

I know I’m a little late to the party, but I wish I coulda seen that on video! Lol that would’ve been priceless!

red said:

Being on a budget they are hard to beat. Plus if you ever have a problem they are cheap to replace.

Any particular reason you want the tanks inside, rather than mounted along the outside edges of the truck frame?

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A couple reasons.

1. They won't freeze.
2. They can't be eaten.
3. They can't be drained and/or stolen, or otherwise tampered with.
4. They can't be punctured.


My biggest concern is temp. I don't want 100* water on a hot day, or no water (frozen) on a cold day....

Secondary is theft/tampering. There's a big meth/heroin problem out here, and when camping/boondocking, the biggest threat is 2 legged creatures, not 4 legged ones. It's getting crazy out here. I had one guy jump ONTO the truck as I was driving, slowing for a stop sign, and try to open the pass. door. It was combat locked, otherwise things would have ended VERY badly for him.

People have had screwdrivers poked into 40 gallon diesel tanks, then let it dump all onto the ground because they wanted gas, not diesel. People have been caught on camera punching holes in tanks to fill up the little 2 gallon containers, 1 gallon milk jugs, even a tide bottle, and again, taking a gallon or 2 and letting the rest dump onto the ground........ 1k$ in damage for $6 in fuel...... The thick fuel tanks I'll be able to hear/feel if someone is messing with them. Plastic tanks, that they may think have fuel in them, not so much....I'd wake up to 100 gallons of water missing and a hole in my tank (tanks would be joined. Hole in one = drain all water).


Unfortunately, as evidenced by situations like above, methheads/heroin addicts don't think straight.

I mean, really? Jumping onto a 'big military vehicle' and trying to get inside, while it's moving/occupied? If I was a normal criminal, the first thought on my mind is 'does the guy have a gun, can I get hurt/killed?', and I dunno about you, but 'guy driving a big @$$ green army truck', would probably be the highest on the 'probably has a gun' list... .Just sayin'......

But yeah, security and temperature.

technoweenie said:

i dunno about you, but 'guy driving a big @$$ green army truck', would probably be the highest on the 'probably has a gun' list... .just sayin'......

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definitely

curious about doing this to my 34 in the future hows the build going now?