naehring2000
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I believe any 2 wire ATS will work with the remote start board, ASCO has 2 wire switches as well as Kohler and Cummins just to name a few.
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how to hook up auto starter kit to MEP 803A generator?
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impi
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TB#10 goes to K8-12
TB#9 is jumpered to TB#1
This is if you do not have K-Ext or ATS wired in. This will cause the load breaker to close after the warmup period. (This piece is missing from the documentation)
I cannot speak to what terminals the ATS is wired to - I do my load transfer and balancing manually and only remote start the generator with an RF switch.
TB#3 is the switch - with +24V DC current applied. As long as the current is applied the generator will go through the startup sequence and run. Once the current is removed from TB#3 the generator will initiate the shutdown sequence.
titoveli
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ok i have hooked up plenty of ASCOs ATS series 185 is pretty easy to hook up and mount i will by that one
i dont wanna manually turn it on. i want it so when power goes out the generator will turn on by it self with the auto starting kit and when the power comes back on i want the generator to turn off alone. cause if i want to turn it on manually i just dont buy nothing and leave it as it is. im ready to buy the kits and the ATS but it looks like nobody knows how to hook it up. ima have to look for a number and call the company to find more information cause the manual doesnt help
Sounds like everyone is telling you how to wire the auto start board correctly. Since you know how to hook up the ASCO's ATS, then you just run your command wire from the ATS to terminal 3 on the auto start board. Then you just make a decision on Relay K
gatorbob
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Does anyone know why the military used plugs and receptacles for interior wiring that passes from chamber to chamber? I just started my installation and realized I don't have a path down to the storage box compartment so my cable can leave the generator near the bottom.
I was thinking using a plug and receptacle might be good to keep vibration from damaging a cable otherwise passing through a hole. Although I guess a 10 cent grommet would do the same thing.
Maybe it has to do with air flow?
I found the male/female connectors for $9 although jumper cables are about twice that price. I might just wait for shipping to finish the job.
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Think about how complicated it would be to take the set apart, when those plugs ang jacks were not there. Think about how easy it is to replace only part of a wire harnes, when it's damaged. Think about how easy it is to replace a control panel, for instance, when you need to. Remove the canon plugs. Remove a few screws. Presto! Take old panel and put in the new one. If you worked on these things every day, for years on end, you would be very happy that there are plugs on the wire harnes.
gatorbob
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Excellent point. Do you know if it's possible to buy the frame for those receptacles separately? I have the barrel connector itself but it only has a locknut to secure it. I like how the military has the square frame with the 4 bolts. I looked through the TMs but never found a part number.
gatorbob
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You see J5, J6, and I7? I'd love to be able to buy the square receptacle part so I can mount my little M12 connector for the autostart. I like how it has 4 screws vs just using a locknut. Thanks
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Open up TM 9-6115-642-24P, to PDF reader page 36. Figure 9, Items A, B and C. That's what you want.
Then go to PDF reader page 38. That shows the detail of the items.
On PDF reader page 40, are the part numbers.
Then go to PDF reader page 38. That shows the detail of the items.
On PDF reader page 40, are the part numbers.
gatorbob
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Thanks. I'm still only 50/50 when trying to find what I need in the TMs but getting more familiar a month later. Now that I see a picture and understand what it looks like, that's probably not the right choice for the M12 connectors I have for the autostart kit. I could use the actual electrical connectors used for other purposes in the MEP but they are $100+ new.
I think I'll just use a new step drill bit, be really careful not to oversize the hole, and use a lock nut. At least I won't have holes in the MEP cabinet with grommets.
I think I'll just use a new step drill bit, be really careful not to oversize the hole, and use a lock nut. At least I won't have holes in the MEP cabinet with grommets.
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You can those types of connectors from various electrical part suppliers such as Digikey for about $4.
Such as.... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/206430-1/A1360-ND/19367
You need to buy the contacts and backshell to make a complete connector.
Scroll to the bottom of the Digikey page for contact and backshell options.
Such as.... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/206430-1/A1360-ND/19367
You need to buy the contacts and backshell to make a complete connector.
Scroll to the bottom of the Digikey page for contact and backshell options.
gatorbob
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Edited posted because I found the answer -
I found a picture that shows a transfer switch hooked up with the 2 external wires going to TB2 and TB3. It looks like the generator battery itself provides the 24V DC assuming the ATS contact closes the circuit. I just need to figure out the polarity on the other end.
I found a picture that shows a transfer switch hooked up with the 2 external wires going to TB2 and TB3. It looks like the generator battery itself provides the 24V DC assuming the ATS contact closes the circuit. I just need to figure out the polarity on the other end.
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impi
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TB#2 provides +24V DC. TB#3 receives the +24VDC. The generator will go through startup sequence, start up and run as long as power is applied to TB#3. When the power is removed from TB#3 the generator will go into shutdown routine. This detail is provided in the installation manual from Innova for the MEP002/003 generators which they refer to in the installation guide for the MEP803.
Not sure if polarity really plays into it. The transfer switch closes the loop which completes the circuit. Unless the generator also provides +24V DC for transfer switch operations.
Not sure if polarity really plays into it. The transfer switch closes the loop which completes the circuit. Unless the generator also provides +24V DC for transfer switch operations.
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gatorbob
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Thanks. I completely missed reference to the MEP002/003 guide. It's much more detailed. I hooked my 2nd wire up to TB#1 thinking the voltage comes from the switch but that was clearly wrong.