rebuilt my t245, runs like garbage

Ok I did a complete rebuild on the engine, Replaced every part from carb to all the parts in the distributor. Engine idles great good oil pressure, Timing set at 2adc per the book. Valves at I .10 E .14 I can not drive it with out it loading up and backfiring thru the carb. The distributor does mechanically advance. I stumped here..

Is there any possibility that the cam is out of time? Or you have a bad coil?

The cam was checked twice for the dot to line up with the Crank dot. I just changed the points capacitor and coil this morning. Still the same. I just pulled each plug wire while running good spark. Then checked the plugs. Zapped my self good. They work. I even just pulled the air horn to look down the intake for the scoop for distributor air all there.

I don’t know if it’s causing your issue but most people I know set the timing at 4 degrees or more before tdc.

Distributor 180* out?
Check #1 and rotation of the wiring order.
(is the firing order sequence going in the correct (direction of)) rotation?.

If everything has been renewed & properly lapped into their seats with the tappet screws faced flat, .010" intake & .013" exhaust is a good COLD set up.
If the tappet screws have not been faced flat, you will need to set up COLD at least .001" tighter on both intake & exhaust. The reason for this is it is normal for the face of the tappet screws to indent slightly, this is normal wear.

The distributor cannot be installed 180 off due to the drive tang being offset slightly on the correct oil pump., with that being said are you sure a proper oil pump is in your engine? Many re builders not familiar with this particular engine and will install a M37 Melling pump and that is not correct due to the drive slot being centered out for civy engines.

Optimum timing is 4 degrees BEFORE TDC as mentioned earlier.

Have you put a timing light on the engine?

I would venture to guess that the distributor is a tooth off. I would pull the plugs and get the engine on TDC, and pop off the distributor cap and see how close it is to the #1 wire location.

Bert

Thank you every one for your information.. 1. The oil pump is the correct offset oil pump, check. 2, a timing light was used that is how I know where it is timed at. firing order dbl checked 153426, Pulled each plug wire had RPM drop on each cylinder except for 5 and 6. Pulled side cover off and rechecked valves found # 6 exhaust with zero clearance. Also could not adjust it any looser. #5 has a stuck valve.. I pulled the head off today and removed the two Valves with issues. # 6 pulled the tappet adjuster screw out and polished it up on the face reinstalled. I have proper clearance, #5 pulled the valve the was stuck and put a reamer down into the guide and cleared it out. Now I have to wait for new gaskets to get here next Tuesday. I will update on the condition after I get it put back together.

Sounds like progress. Its always good to find something obviously wrong.

Sorry for the delay everyone. I pulled the head off and we discoverd #6 Exhuast valve was not closeing and we also had a problem on number 5. We ended up pulling both valves and reaming out the valve guides. We also had to pull the adjuster screw on #6 and polishing the end it actualy had a bit of a rounded peak on it. We have the motor back together andf took it for a new test drive Going up hill we had plenty of power and where able to pull 4th gear. No to finish the break in process.

Well done, Methodical perseverance paid off for you.

I am a late addition here but I am running 6 degrees BTDC on mine. When I built mine I had the head milled and the block decked so a little more compression. Also had hardened valve seats installed with valves to allow burning unleaded fuel. Engine was also balanced and blueprinted. There is a modification order for valve settings that opened the clearance up quite a bit and that called for .015 hot. I set mine at .017 cold on the exhaust and .016 cold on the intakes (old school trick). Engine runs great and idles smooth as silk.

M37s came from the factory with hardened valve seats in anticipation of less than stellar gasoline around the world.

I installed them on the intake side also. A couple on the Exhaust side were pitted very badly and one was actually loose so I replaced all of them on the exhaust side too.

Black Ops said:

I don’t know if it’s causing your issue but most people I know set the timing at 4 degrees or more before tdc.

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The correct timming is 8 degrees late tdc i had the same problem before read the manual and always burn out intake valves

We are currently set at 0 and it runs fantastic. Will be leaving it there until we get some break in time on it. And see where it takes me. Thank all you for the information.

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