Vibration when hit 32 mph

johnhjohnson2 said:

Well I’m not sure they do become effective lol. But I believe they claim the low 20’s on their website. I purchased them as I was having a lot of trouble finding a shop that would balance my tires and I had this issue which I thought at first was likely an balancing issue.

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One of the reasons I bought a set too. Gave up calling around looking for someone who could or would balance my tires. There’s a distinct difference after about 20mph I can feel - smoother - “tracking” is more steady, less shaking into the steering wheel. Not a Cadillac, but smoother.

I think they were worth the investment (or I’ll keep saying that until I can find a place that’ll really balance the tires).

NB

Lead Poison on a Hummwv wheel and nine years old. Date code, Find the word DOT. Follow along to the last bubble ("week & year") in the picture this is (week 18 & year 2009) like new ??? with slight wobble, HAH. Didn't know they made weights that BIG either. TM lists you can order single weights up to... ready for this... "SIXTEEN OUNCE" as in each. Add as needed to reach warp highway speeds.

Another issue to think about. If you still have the runflats in. The Centramatics will not do there thing

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Funny with the wheel balance thing. The 24 bolt rims were easier to balance.

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Those are some serious weights! So if that’s the case I can’t be the only one to have similar issues. In my defense I did call Centramatics directly and ask if they would be effective and give them weights of wheel before ordering. They seemed knowledgeable and said the HMMWV model they sell was meant to handle the original wheels and tires.

Sams club told me they can do 37" tires. I didnt mention the 150 pounds, though.

Seems fairly common for these old Humvees to have some shake around 30-35

You could try swapping the tires around and see if it changes. I had one on the front that "got with it" pretty good but after swapping it to the back it is barely noticeable.


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I’ve got a local Offroad shop that has balanced my tires on a H1 I used to have but they moved locations and have been waiting on equipment to do it. No where else in town will even look at a HMMWV or 2-piece steel rim. They should have equip set up in a week or two so I should be able to see if that’s the issue. I hope it is be it’s def the easiest and cheapest solution!

I can tell anyone in SE Indiana where to go for about $6 a tire.

With all those new parts, I may place a wager on the front caster being off. I was just reading about alignments. Basically, if the upper ball joint is too far forward, the wheel can act like one on a grocery cart. It will steer real easy, but unstable at higher speeds and can wobble. Move the upper ball joint back, and put the weight behind the center of the wheel. It will not steer as quick, but it will be more stable and track better.

It had the same issue before all the new parts. I just had it aligned I hope they would have caught that but who knows. Good advice I didn’t consider that I will try it.

johnhjohnson2 said:

It had the same issue before all the new parts. I just had it aligned I hope they would have caught that but who knows. Good advice I didn’t consider that I will try it.

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Where did you have it aligned?

McReddy

Logan’s Allignment. Offroad shop owner I know recommended them.

Before replacing anything else, I suggest diagnosing the vibration. Drive the vehicle at 32mph and measure the disturbance frequency with a reed tachometer, a sirometer, an electronic vibration analyzer, the accelerometer in a smartphone, or some other device. Note the engine rpm and the gear the transmission is in while recording the disturbance frequency. Next, do a little math to determine the rotational speeds of all the major components (drivelines, wheels/tires, axle shafts, etc.) and correlate the disturbance frequency to the rpm of a rotating component. Next, perform some inspections and measurements on the components that you've correlated the disturbance frequency to.

If you don't want to manually calculate the speeds of the rotating components, look into Vibrate Software (vibratesoftware.com). Calculating the speeds is easy though. Take the engine rpm and divide it by the gear ratio of whatever gear you were in, and you have driveline speed (assuming minimal torque converter slippage). Take the driveline speed and divide it by the axle ratio and you have the speed of the axle shafts (and the tires and wheels if it isn't a HMMWV with geared hubs). If you have geared hubs, divide the axle shaft speed by the hub gearing ratio and you have tire/wheel speed. Next, try to match up the disturbance frequency to one of the speeds calculated above. If you measured the disturbance frequency in Hz, multiply by 60 to convert it to RPM to make matching it up easier. Make sure you look for multiples (or halves) when doing the matching to see if you have "second order" or higher vibrations. "First order" vibrations produce one disturbance per revolution of the component, such as an imbalanced driveline or tire. Second order disturbances (2 "shakes" per revolution of the component) are caused by non-balance issues such as out of round components, improper driveline working angles or phase, etc.

Once you've determined the rotating component(s) causing the disturbance, and the order of the vibration, do some measurements (lateral/radial runout of hubs and wheels, driveline angles and phasing, or whatever the above procedure would indicate that you inspect/measure) and you'll likely find the culprit. No more guessing and replacing parts with the hope that the issue will go away.

johnhjohnson2 said:

It had the same issue before all the new parts. I just had it aligned I hope they would have caught that but who knows. Good advice I didn’t consider that I will try it.

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How much money was the alignment? That will tell us if they did ir all.