1968 Deuce, new owner - new member

Menaces Nemesis said:

I had a local trophy shop make this rear diff lock plaque. I drew it up in MS Word, and gave them the overall dimensions. Don't remember exactly what it cost, but less than $20. It's just laser-engraved aluminum, and they do that stuff all day long (I did mill out the slot for the switch lever myself). Trophy shop might be of help to the project if you have one nearby.
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Who did your A/C?

KevinGaus said:

New question. I flat can’t find it in the TMs. Where do I position the balancer to TDC when adjusting the valve lash. And is outside temperature a factor?View attachment 732892View attachment 732893

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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?6101-LDT-465-1D-Valve-Lash
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?46439-deuce-valve-lash
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...asket-torque-specs-and-valve-lash-info-needed
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?28198-Multifuel-valve-adjustment-TM

Hope that helps, search function bro.

Thanks for throwing in. I have seen everyone of those posts I have search the TMs. still no joy

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm

No offence to the site, but this has not necessarily more but it does have different ones. Also you can Ctrl + F them in PDF.

Mrmag1 said:

Who did your A/C?

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BoyceEquipment.com But I've spent many, many hours, and gone through heroic efforts to gain the benefit of the AC and heat;
-Top is insulated with 80mil butyl & 157 mil closed-cell foam
-Doors are carpeted and insulated with 315 mil closed-cell foam
-Floor is fully carpeted & insulated with 80 mil butyl & thick custom floor mats
-Firewall and rear of tub is fully carpeted & insulated with 1/2" foil-faced cotton batting
-Entire cab is sealed, including full 360 degree door contacts & belt seals at window sill/door contacts
-Cab fresh air vents are foam-filtered
-Side and rear windows are tinted

Otherwise the AC would be "shoveling sand against the tide" so to speak.

Mrmag1 said:

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm

No offence to the site, but this has not necessarily more but it does have different ones. Also you can Ctrl + F them in PDF.

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I don't believe anyone would take offense... IIRC that outfit is run by John Tennis. Good man who's been a big help, and who's products & info have been recommended by many here. Got some of his handywork in the engine compartment myownself.

Help is help no matter where it comes from. I got the info I needed for TDC. I will be checking the valves and setting if needed. And bang guess the 6 of this lot that goes on the truck. I should be good. Testing soon.

Looks like I have more work. Damm thing still won’t start without ether. Still pulses at idle. Only thing I changed is I have to pull the throttle lock to keep it running. Or I have to feather the pedal to keep it running. I’m done. Screw it. Parked till I can afford to pay someone. Love, that’s it all done.

Why did I not notice this before?

The hard start and pulsing idle are classic for air in the fuel system. When the engine is under load and the ip moves massive amounts of fuel it runs fine. When it sits....psssssss....air seeps in.

But judging by the above picture, you already have a hot lead!

What sometimes helps to confirm a small air leak is to switch on the accessory switch and let the in tank fuel pump push fuel for a full 2 minutes or so. Then hit the start button. With mild air leaks, that could be enough to fire it up.

Unless I’m missing something that you’re saying, Nope. I’m sealed up tight as a drum. I made sure of it. I double checked, running the pump, and double check again. It’s all still dry as a bone. I won’t bust off without starter fluid, but once it starts it stays running. It pulses massively at idle all the time now, instead of just when it was cold. She still smokes like a freight train all the time and I’m thinking I’m a I done. It’s getting worse not better. I put it all back together today. Blaaa

Man I hope you get her figured out, don't give up on her all together.

There’s too much here to give up on. Besides I’m in too deep.

Are you sure you intank pump is running. When you open the bleeder that is between the secondary and final fuel filters it should be squirting out at 4-6 psi. You just have to crack it just a tad till you see fuel /air bubbles coming out. Don't open it up all the way and start old faith full.

KevinGaus said:

There’s too much here to give up on. Besides I’m in too deep.

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Exactly, you are in too deep. Might as well see her through now. I’d drive down and help if I wasn’t on another continent.

Yes I’m sure. It fountains out of there. I have done it all twice. From cleaning out the bottom of the tank, to adjusting the valve lash. What I’m running into now is, I did it all right the first time, and it didn’t fix it. So from this point on , Every thing I do is getting it farther out of wack. I puttsed it around a little yesterday (2 blocks and back) but it’s home. Its going to stay right we’re it is. I may even hang a sing on it that says “Broken”. Ether way. It ain’t right, and I can’t figure it out. I’m not going back out there this week. That Deuce can kiss my ass for now.

We never did hear the details of your injector testing... Those things can dribble, druel, piss, do anything but hold pressure and pop if they aren't serviced and well-adjusted. Did you get 'er done? Did they chatter good? What PSI/BAR range did you set them to? Were they screw or shim-type? How many holes did the tips have? Did you anneal the copper washers and gaskets before installing them, or use new ones? (FWIW, my truck seems to hate one hole nozzle tips... makes it hunt bad at idle when cold, and the smoke just cascades down around the truck and fills the neighborhood)

When you had the injector lines loose, did you happen to shoot some brake cleaner/carb cleaner through them to make sure they were unobstructed?

After you worked on the IP, how much up/down travel did you get from the HH plunger?

Does it act any differently if you try to start the truck with the air filter and canister removed?

Did you take the turbo intake loose, grab the compessor wheel, and see if it's spinning freely? Could you feel it scraping the inside of the housing at all while turning/pushing the shaft to the sides/up & down? Was there any oily, black residue on the compressor wheel?

I wish you lived closer, I'd pop-test those injectors for ya, and run a scope down in the cylinders whilst at it.

They hold pressure. 3100 PSI BAR 2200 give or take 10
They are screw type. One hole directional. With new copper washers.
soked the lines and blew them out with high pressure.
I serviced the injection head it functions fine. But I never measured the up down movement.
Air filter out, no change.
I never pulled the hoses off the turbo but the turbo is singing nicely.

KevinGaus said:

They hold pressure. 3100 PSI BAR 2200 give or take 10
They are screw type. One hole directional. With new copper washers.
soked the lines and blew them out with high pressure.
I serviced the injection head it functions fine. But I never measured the up down movement.
Air filter out, no change.
I never pulled the hoses off the turbo but the turbo is singing nicely.

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- I admit I'm cynical, but with the crap some shops try to pull, I won't trust that any injector is working right unless I see it with my own eyes.
- One-hole nozzles = a bit more power, more fuel, and more smoke.
- I'd make sure every inch of your air intake is wide open. We come across all kinds of wierdness with 50 year-old trucks, make sure there's no "wierdness" in your intake from bonnet to turbo.
- I used to love the sound of my turbo... It was a deep, howling, eerie sound (and because it had bad seals, it was bleeding oil into the intake, supplementing the truck's "diet" and adding more smoke to the exhaust, and the shaft had so much play the exhaust turbine was scraping the carbon off the housing darn near down to the housing itself, right on the verge of self-destruction). Pull that intake, and check your turbo.

I stripped, cleaned up, and painted the gauge cluster. If I can’t make it run right, I will make it pretty. None of the gauges work except for speedo and tach, so they all have to be replaced. And maybe I can find a boost, fuel pressure and Pyro that look right to go with them. The paint from Rapco looks brown, but is Perfect match, those guys are fun. I’m wondering if anybody could tell me what these specific holes holes are for?