1968 Deuce, new owner - new member

Sorry Kevin that I can't be of more help. Mine came from the Army with metal push plugs in the holes. Kevin also check your gauges to make sure they're really bad, and if you have to replace them, stay away from the Chinese knock offs. The GI gauges should have the manufacturer name, Faria Corp. or S.W. (Stewart Warner). Hope this helps.

Thanks, I see the plate. I’m hoping to find the right size, to rivet right into the four holes I have. As for the plugs, especially the one with the four small holes around it. They look like they were specifically placed with something in mind. I’m still having no luck finding pictures or anyone that knows.

KevinGaus said:

Thanks, I see the plate. I’m hoping to find the right size, to rivet right into the four holes I have. As for the plugs, especially the one with the four small holes around it. They look like they were specifically placed with something in mind. I’m still having no luck finding pictures or anyone that knows.

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That hole was used to add a electrical connector for many devices used in the deuce. I've seen radio set-ups that used that connector and also "Radiation" detection devices . My older deuce had such a connection. It had a Radiation Decontamination Unit on the back bed. I'm sure there where many other devices connected to that dash connection.

If you run across any pictures, I would like to fill these holes with the correct stuff

On my tan Deuce, I put two 12v power outlets in the large holes in the dash to charge phones with or any other 12v devices like maybe a dash cam. What they are originally for is a mystery as both of my Deuces came with the holes plugged with the metal plugs. Keep working on the truck even if you have to step away from it for a while as you will find the problem @ some point. My 1985 Deuce is still not running after getting it from Gov Planet last September. It seems that the last mechanics that worked on it were the Air Force guys & they didn't completely finish reassembling the injector line supports when they quit working on it which leads me to believe that they couldn't get it to run either. Sorry to hijack your thread.

It’s cool . Info info info. I have some vintage lenses I put in last night. Just to full the holes and give the kids something to play with.

I finally put my new gauges in that I've had sitting around my shop for about 2 years. I had someone from this site cut a panel to help make the pyro & boost look a little bit more "factory". I wish I could remember who it was but I can't find any record of correspondence either in my msg file or emails. The gauges are from Hewitt with the exception of "battery". Don't remember why, it just suited me better to go with the original for some reason. The gauges are red LED so I setup the 3 lights for high beam, low air, and the 3rd is a reminder that my keyed battery switch is on.


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Wow . I love that. It’s cool actually seeing what I’ve been thinking in my head.

Getting a handle on it, but I still want everything working properly. I was at the tail lights because only one light worked, and now I’m looking for a matching set. I have decided to replace the front harness. With what’s cut tracking these functions down is a real pain. But I am making headway.

Does the gauge cluster panel need to be grounded to the dash? I’m insulating it with rubber washers for vibration.

KevinGaus said:

Does the gauge cluster panel need to be grounded to the dash? I’m insulating it with rubber washers for vibration.

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Yes, the only ground for the dash panel is via the locking screws. An O-ring should not do bad things because you would still use the factory locking screws, but if you have ground issues after, you may want to run a ground wire.

KevinGaus said:

Does the gauge cluster panel need to be grounded to the dash? I’m insulating it with rubber washers for vibration.

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I added a dedicated wire with quick-disconnect from the dash to chassis ground.
I never have gauge problems now.

Can anyone help me find a metal tail to match this one?

I’m also still in need of a mobile mechanic in the Dallas Tx area. Yup you guessed it, truck still not doing what it’s supposed to be doing.

With the turn signal harness cut under the dash, could that have anything to do with why the brake lights and tail lights aren’t working ?

Well now my batt is being drawn down by the Alt/Gen. My truck hasn’t moved, it’s starting to sink, and I’m weedeating around it now. It’s growing problems, and I have yet to really drive it. I don’t know what it will be to fix the alt, and I still have the other issue. What I could do with a little money and some brains.
I did however spray flex seal on, and paint over the cover for a nice dry cab.

Wow, cover looks good.

Your alternator issue could be the voltage regulator. First step is always to try and adjust the output voltage. If that fails, people have swapped the regulator out (basically the end cap) for a new one (about $90), had their alternator rebuilt by a knowledgeable shop or replaced the military spec unit for a 24 (or combined 12V/24V) civilian unit. The civy unit is smaller, lighter, more powerful and super reliable - and cheap, compared to OEM military replacements.

The cut harness is a pain but it is only a few wires, the drawings for which wire goes where are available here and with some soldering and heat shrink you are in business!

KevinGaus said:

Well now my batt is being drawn down by the Alt/Gen. My truck hasn’t moved, it’s starting to sink, and I’m weedeating around it now. It’s growing problems, and I have yet to really drive it. I don’t know what it will be to fix the alt, and I still have the other issue. What I could do with a little money and some brains.
I did however spray flex seal on, and paint over the cover View attachment 741840for a nice dry cab.

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The usual culprit for alternator drains is the "diodes" . They go bad and then allow the voltage to go to ground.

What type of paint did you use on the top to avoid cracking? Let us know how this works out and holds up. I need to paint mine as well.

I don’t know what the issue is with the alt. I disconnected it and the batt draw is gone. But i think it killed one of my batteries, because I can’t get it to come back.
The spray paint is just autopart store flat camouflage green. Just your any old shake and bake paint. I’m coming up on wedging the truck in somewhere and walking away.