Anyone ever stripped the finish off an 1101/2?

They have a galvanized frame and an aluminum bed. Anyone ever try to strip the paint off completely via chemical means? I would be hesitant to sandblast it.

I built a really cool looking diamond plate lid for my 1101. Problem was, it was so heavy that it was not practical at all, even with the 200lb gas struts. But it was so cool looking. There is a distinct possibility that I didn’t try hard enough to make it work, I’ll admit that, but that much weight, attached to an aluminum body, I just didn’t like the idea.

I wound up having to scrap the entire project. I kept the metal and used it for other projects, and learned a lesson. But it got me thinking about an aluminum diamond tread/diamond plate lid on an aluminum finished body 1101.

Ill dig around for a picture of the lid that didn’t work out as planned.

Aluminum diamond plate is readily available in 1/8" thickness. It would probably have to have some frame and maybe a brake line in the middle for drainage, but could be made lighter than steel. 200# for one end of a cover does seem like a lot.

I consider the paint as a primer and just spot apply primer on raw metal. Everything, especially the Behr, sticks to it fairly well.

Here was the frame

And here is where I had started covering it in diamond plate.

Toby,

I’d build a bit of a different frame. More akin to an airplane wing, with ribs with die punched holes for rigidity. Similar style except a slight peak in the center. Maybe just a couple degrees of brake. Or possibly a slight radius.

As for the trailer, I was wondering if anyone went with bare aluminum. Not painted. Or possibly coated with something since it’s not anodized?

Just wondering. Might look pretty cool with an aluminum lid similar to what I described above.

Usually aluminum is dry ice blasted or with nut shells it doesn't leave a rough surface like normal abrasives would.

I like the setup and it looks plenty stout with that many ribs. I don't think I would start over myself, but I would find a way to handle the weight better. Have you already trashed it (reused the metal)?

Do I see hinges on the side? If you were hinged on the front, with shocks on both sides, would you carry the weight better? How about having a garage door torsion spring to help with the weight?

The lid has been “repurposed” as of a few months ago. It sat around for a year waiting on me to solve the issue and other trailers got built and other ideas and problems solved and it never gained a higher number on the list and it was in the way.

I had two 200 lb gas struts to help open it. The real problem came when I just didn’t have the extra hands to help make the project come together and honestly, It was just too heavy. I was mad at myself for not doing the math before the welding.

Now I want to consider doing it all out of aluminum but I’m sure that will be pricey. What does a 4x8 sheet of 1/8” diamond plate run? It’s gotta be $150-$200 or so right? It’s been a while since I have bought aluminum. I’m guessing materials for a top could easily run over $500. Considering a similar shaped top, different construction though.

MWMULES said:

Usually aluminum is dry ice blasted or with nut shells it doesn't leave a rough surface like normal abrasives would.

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Hmm. Dry ice blasting can’t be cheap.

Maybe I like green ok. both in my wallet and on my trailer. The more I think about this, the more expensive it all sounds.

Might experiment with 1/16" plate and 3/4 or 1" angle. Weld the angle to the plate to form a triangle.

DeadParrot said:

Might experiment with 1/16" plate and 3/4 or 1" angle. Weld the angle to the plate to form a triangle.

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I assume you are talking about using this as my cross members? That’s a good idea, something to keep in mind to incorporate into the plan.

What I’m thinking of is cut my crossmembers from a sheet of 1/8” aluminum. It will have a slight radius to the top. Weld a piece of 2”x 1/8” flat to the top of that to form a T profile. The diamond plate will be attached to that with 3M adhesive to the majority of the top of these ribs. I’ll weld it at some points on the ends where appropriate. More on that later.

The ribs will be punched with a dimple die for further strength. They will be very rigid and weigh very little.

I wouldn't take anything out of a 2" flat. Leave that metal in place. If the piece were 4" + wide, then lightening might be an option.

You can't see it (angle mounted with the point out) in the photo very well at the front of the bed, but I think putting on the angle aluminum like was previously mentioned would be a good stiffener and not stick down too far. Angle aluminum is readily available, as are flats.

tobyS said:

How about having a garage door torsion spring to help with the weight?

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Torsion spring is a good idea, I’d have to distribute the force of it over a large area since the walls are aluminum. I could use the ramp assist springs they use on equipment trailers. Wish I would have thought of that before I scrapped it.

But I'm off on an aluminum tangent now. 98G introduced me to a new welder, so now I’m a TIG and spool gun owner (notice I didn’t say TIG or aluminum welder) still need some practice before building a trailer top, but I’m pretty happy with this new welder.

Toby,

Yep, I get the angle iron welded like that. I did that on the front of my dump trailer, only vertical instead of horizontal. It works. Triangles are strong, period!

That 2” would be the top horizontal piece of the “T” the vertical piece would be 5” or so. It would have dimple die holes in it. Like this to make the 5” vertical piece very rigid


The 2” piece would be the part that the diamond plate would adhere to.

I know, it’s hard to describe in writing. It’s like the inner pieces of an airplane wing.

Almost exactly like this, just slice the bottom off

I think they make a T that would help distribute the top loading. I understand making it like a plane rib now, but that weld would be prone to breaking in the heat affected zone. Making it like a rib does allow a curved top.

Are you planning having storage, like poles or anything in the top? Holes should align then or some consideration.

There are double torsion springs which could be used to torque both ends and match the weight to the springs tension.

Good score on the AL wire feed welder...do some practice to get the feel. I'm hoping to do a push-pull arrangement when I get the welder out of my storage....after building the shop.

Thanks Toby, pretty excited about learning how to TIG. Been watching videos and picking up hints and tricks. Jeez, some of those guys are amazing Welders. The spool gun is my first assignment. I’ll think I’ll start with it. Learn a bit about aluminum and how it behaves with heat and all the stuff I dont know about aluminum I’ll try the TIG too before you know it.

I blame 98G for feeding my welding addiction. I was doing ok with my little red Lincoln and he comes along telling me about this Miller ... Lincoln, the gateway drug to real welding equipment.

Id venture a guess this trailer top may be farther out than I expect. Unless aluminum welding is easier than I expect, doubt it, but ... we will see!

Tig aluminium takes patience which i have little of. The push/pull mig on the other hand rocks! Nothing i do needs the "pretty" of tig, but i still have one just in case i run out of things to do. Toby, if you dig your power supply out, ill lend you one of my cobramatics.

Getting all the materials together may take a while...(could for me). My budget is okay (something sold) or famine, so some projects languish. I have enough tires for the 4x4 M35A3 project but sure would like a set of (5) of the XZL+ 395's selling at $200 a tire (new).

The kids have all got too big to sell to support this hobby.

Get some nice thick AL to practice on as the thinner is harder and more prone to breaking at the edge of the weld. I see Home Depot is carrying many AL shapes, H, J, Z, T and L in 8' sticks.

Thanks Chris for the offer. I have two trailers full of my tools and machinery that I can't unload into a shop....because I don't have a shop. Land rich and shop poor.

I have been buying aluminum scraps on eBay. Cheaper than HD. Plus, you can often find pieces cut at close to what you need if you look around long enough. Lots of 1/8” plate in 12” to 24” square range that are drops from some manufacturing. There are also 3/16, 3/8, 1/4” ... you name it. Some punched out in circles, end pieces of flat bar, Plus lots of “lots” of little pieces of scrap to practice on sold by the lb.

I have a fair amount of 1/8 sheet and 3/8 plate left over from a boat project.