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Complete steering replacement on my K30

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I have put up with crappy steering long enough. I am going to try to document the entire process once I get started. I received all of the crossover parts from ORD a few weeks ago but the PSC box took a little longer to arrive.

Look what came today! Soon, I should be steering comparable to my wife’s Audi... :D

52D6F2B2-A9CA-49D7-A64D-E96EEA453412.jpg592B3151-147B-4583-9D6F-5CDA46CC7BB1.jpg8F691CCE-3F6D-464C-A6F0-3E717CB80CA4.jpg
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,814
942
113
Location
Paris KY
Now you’ve done it Glock. You’ve got me wanting to add hydraulic steering to my M1028. Please photo document your progress so everybody can follow along.
Question - did you buy the ported steering gear from ORD or directly from PSC?
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I bought the PSC SG041MR which I had ported as an option for hydro assist should I decide to do it "later". I had no idea that later would be now but it worked out this way. The box is a 13-16:1 variable ratio, or course 2WD for crossover steering, I bought it from ORD and they had PSC drop ship it to me. PSC was a little behind due to lack of cores but I eventually got it yesterday and am looking forward to the process. I think that there may have been $40 variance in the price but PSC shipped it to me on ORD's dime so I think that the shipping cost that I paid ORD for all of the parts combined was fair. I have had good luck with their parts and the parts that they recommend.
 
Last edited:

Barrman

Well-known member
5,132
1,505
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
That is pretty. I am gathering parts to replace my box and shaft. I haven't found the box I want yet but will do the XJ shaft swap. There is just too much slop in the system to be comfortable in the truck after getting out of a rack and pinion car.
 

stevenbeven

Member
44
1
6
Location
Nashville, TN
Can’t wait to see the build glock - will be taking notes! Ha. Mine is going right after you, ordered parts and probably same boat with delivery of PSC box.

Great video chaski, looks super solid!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I’m doing everything from the rag joint up to the steering knuckles new. It will be a combination of ORD and PSC parts. The final tally is $2050 for the different items needed. I hope like heck this ends the steering problem for good. I am adding a set of 1” zero rates up front for extra clearance up front. Pics will follow when the work begins.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
and it looks like PSC sent the wrong stinking steering box after me waiting for a month on this... frustrated...
Know anyone with a milling machine?
You could drill and tap the one currently on your rig yourself.

One of the holes is easy with a drill press as it is a through hole.
The other hole is blind, into a cross passage that makes it an interrupted cut. On the blind hole I normally drill it 3/8” then finish it off with a plunge cut with a 7/16” endmill. If you just cowboy it with a 7/16” drill you will end up with a out of round hole as the drill bit deflects when it hits the cross drilled passage.

Easy Cheesy peasy... The worst part is putting the box back together with new seals.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
Clamp on cylinder mount for your tie rod. New ARP studs and tapered nuts for your passenger side arm. Maybe new kingpin bushings / springs / bearings / seals? Hose management?

Beer?
Vodka?
Water?

Looking good! I like that fancy remote reservoir.[h=1][/h]
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I have the ARP studs and tapered nuts. They are not pictured. I guess I need to source various pullers, etc. they make attachments for my air hammer to separate the rod ends. Any other specific tools you can think of? I have a decent box but I know there may be something I need that I don’t have.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
I didn’t see a steering box brace in your photos, get one if you don’t have one allready (ORD). The stock steering is fore and aft strain on the frame, as soon as you go crossover it is side to side and will crack out your frame near the box in short order without one.


You can unbolt the steering arm from the drivers side knuckle, and unbolt the steering box. Then remove the whole mess as one assembly including the drag link without breaking it down. Take the kingpin spring cap from your passenger side and install it on your drivers side. That will leave the passenger side prepped for your New arm.

The tie rod ends on your old tie rod won’t be reused so I wouldn’t be afraid to use a hammer blow on the side of the knuckle casting where the tapered tie rod hole is followed by beating out the tie rod with a sharp hammer blow. By all means use an air hammer with a fork, or a fork if you have said technology.

If for some reason you need or choose to replace the upper tapered king pin you will need a 7/8” Allen key that can withstand a LOT of torque. I think the spec is 550ftlb, so removing them can be brutal.

I think the nut that secures the pitman on the sector shaft is 1 5/16”. That is kind of an odd size so you may want to check your sockets.

Other than that just a good torque wrench and some time. Be prepared to do a bit of a DIY allignment to get it close.
 

Glockfan

Member
274
13
18
Location
Brigham City, Utah
I didn’t see a steering box brace in your photos, get one if you don’t have one allready (ORD). The stock steering is fore and aft strain on the frame, as soon as you go crossover it is side to side and will crack out your frame near the box in short order without one.


You can unbolt the steering arm from the drivers side knuckle, and unbolt the steering box. Then remove the whole mess as one assembly including the drag link without breaking it down. Take the kingpin spring cap from your passenger side and install it on your drivers side. That will leave the passenger side prepped for your New arm.

The tie rod ends on your old tie rod won’t be reused so I wouldn’t be afraid to use a hammer blow on the side of the knuckle casting where the tapered tie rod hole is followed by beating out the tie rod with a sharp hammer blow. By all means use an air hammer with a fork, or a fork if you have said technology.

If for some reason you need or choose to replace the upper tapered king pin you will need a 7/8” Allen key that can withstand a LOT of torque. I think the spec is 550ftlb, so removing them can be brutal.

I think the nut that secures the pitman on the sector shaft is 1 5/16”. That is kind of an odd size so you may want to check your sockets.

Other than that just a good torque wrench and some time. Be prepared to do a bit of a DIY allignment to get it close.
Dayum good information! I spoke to Chris at ORD and he explained that I would have far less stress on the steering box and frame with hydraulic assist but that the reinforcement was insurance. I may go ahead and order the reinforcement but the hundreds of dollars are starting to add up and mama ain't happy one bit about that... I look forward to getting these parts installed and will do my best to document it.
 

stevenbeven

Member
44
1
6
Location
Nashville, TN
Interested in the steering shaft upgrade, I was thinking of getting a steering shaft from an XJ at a junk yard. What are your thoughts on that vs the new linkage you got? Does this bolt onto your existing steering shaft?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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