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Thread: WMO in CUCV

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    Default WMO in CUCV

    Anyone burn WMO/Mix in their CUCV? I was wondering what mix would be good in a CUCV? Would likely only be used for long trips so as to keep carbon fowling in the cup to a minimum.

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    4 Star General Barrman's Avatar
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    Many have done it. Posted results normally conclude it works great. Then mostly those posters disappear from the web site. Some return a year or so later asking for help because their truck won’t start or the IP is bad. But, again very few people that post about running waste motor oil follow up with long term reports.

    Will it work? Yes. Can it be done without hurting anything? Yes. Can it cause the small diameter IP drive shaft to snap if too thick of a fuel is put into it in cold or even mild weather? Yes. Can it cause internal IP failure from impurities in the used oil? Yes. Can it cause fuel injectors to fail early? Yes.

    If I seem to be coming across as against the idea. It is because in a 6.2 engine I think it is a bad idea. I have run WMO in a multi fuel M35 for several years. I filtered it. I changed my fuel filters regularly and I thought I was saving money in a truck designed to run oil as a fuel. Now I have a bunch of goo and gunk in my fuel tank, a leaking IP and a truck I will probably spend more money fixing that what I saved in fuel cost.

    I suggest you you stick to diesel on the 6.2.
    "If you didn't build it, you can't call it yours."

    1952 M35 W/W Gasser
    1953 M35 W/W Gasser
    1967 M715 6.2/NV4500
    1967 M416
    1971 M35A2 Whistler W/W
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1986 M105A3
    1987 M1007 Suburban (Cowdog)
    1988 M105A3
    1990 M101A2
    1991 M101A2

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  5. #3
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    Just REMEMBER that ANY mutilfuel engine IS designed as a THROW A-WAY diesel engine, just because it can run on battlefield collected crap dose NOT mean that it is good for a long life expectancy, anything AFTER the crap fueled mission is a PLUS.
    Ron, AKA , FTF, AKA KGR (kinder/gentler Ron)
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    ALSO the clearances in a multifuel ip are very sloppy so it can run on crap if needed, compared to standard diesel engine which has VERY tight clearances.
    Last edited by 73m819; 06-30-2018 at 18:44.
    Ron, AKA , FTF, AKA KGR (kinder/gentler Ron)
    FTF = Five Ton Fixer
    Gainesville, Ga.
    vietnam-1/66-8/68
    "Technical Manuals are the path to Illumination...
    Download, Study Learn"---rlwm211
    POOR PLANNING or NOT READING TM on your part does NOT constitute a EMERGENCY on our part.
    I do INSPECTIONS and RECOVERIES at/from Atlanta or WHERE EVER, 703-389-6705, 73m819@gmail.com
    73m819, tractor/wrecker AKA NO LONGER Wrecked Wrecker
    What ever else that can be drug home
    Neutered 6X6s (bobbers) = 10t wheel chocks
    Use CUCVs, a small step below BOBBERS as 5t wheel chocks
    GOD help the MV or LEGO world if I win the LOTTERY
    Long live BIG GREEN IRON

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    4 Star General 98G's Avatar
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    And a lot of the abrasive grit in WMO is smaller than 2 micron.

    This leads me to conclude that filtration is insufficient and WMO would need to be centrifuged to be safely usable. Hardly seems worth the effort for small scale....

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    Huh.

    What ever happened to following the TM's?

    Jus' askin'.

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    Ok, I didnt check the TM on waste oil, should have searched. I like my CUCV too much to hurt it. Thank you.

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    WMO user here and with proper filtration and blending, I've found WMO blends to be effective in everything from 7.3idi to 7.3 PSD to 8.3 Cummings to a Volvo D12. If you're willing to take the time to centrifuge, settle out water, check viscosity blends, and so forth, WMO can be worthwhile. If you take short cuts though, it can be a real headache.

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    Back about 15 years ago when Diesel was above $5 a gallon I tried it. It was costing me almost $150 a week to go to work. I bought a blood centrifuge at a auction for $50. It had space for 4 1 quart bottles so I could spin a gallon at a time. I would lose about 25% if WMO to waste. The bottom 25% was full of sludge/metal particales that looked like metal flake paint. So I poured the top oil off and put it in the tank. I ran different blends. I used it in all my Diesel engines back then. I guess it paid for it self. I never lost a IP. But with Diesel at $2.89 around here it's not worth my time or trouble to mess with it. If they ever run the price back up to where the risk may pay off I would might do it again. Other wise I will stick with #2 diesel with a shot of LUCAS injector cleaner every once and a while.
    Kenny
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    I run a pressure driven centrifuge and my setup literally works on the flip of a switch (took some trial and error to get it there though). When I'm not deployed and still in the US, I would flip it on, leave for work, come back 10 hours later, and clean out the centrifuge. Afterwards, flip it on again for another 5-6 hours, clean it, then let it run all night while I slept.....wash, rinse, repeat. My fuge would clean 108 gph so I'd put about 72 hours on my 300 gallon tote and clean the oil for 30ish passes. With the price of unleaded gas for the blend and power to run the pump, each gallon is roughly $.60. As long as I have WMO and diesel doesn't get crazy cheap, I'll keep running it b/c the savings and easy nature of cleaning it are too easy to pass up.

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