MEP802a leak at injector well

My MEP 802A has fuel filling up the well around the injector. Don't think it is the return lines but will replace them while the hood is up. I think it is the injector seal. Can anyone tell me the part number for the seal and where to get one? Also, any suggestions on the best way to get to the injector hold down nut (allen head)? New to this site. Thanks for any help. Looks like a wealth of knowledge here.

There's a few things you can try before replacing the copper washer under the injector. Unfortunately you really need to remove the top cover off the machine to have good access to the injectors.
Before doing anything, take a hammer and a bar or 1/2" socket extension and tap sharply on the tips of the injector hold down. then try to tighten the bolt. then restart and check for leaks.
If its still leaking you can remove the injector and take out the washer, clean it off then hit it with a propane torch till red, then let it cool slowly, ( this will anneal the copper and make it soft again ) then reinstall it doing the same thing, tighten bolt, tap on the hold down then tighten again.

186-6173 - WASHER,FLAT
PART OF KIT P/N 186-6210
PART OF KIT P/N 186-6212
REQUIRED

Page 16/89 in the ARMY TM 9-2815-252-24P. I haven't been into the injectors yet, so double check in the manual.

Your TMs are here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-802-5KW-Generator-and-MEP-803-10KW-Generator

I ordered 2 of the washers but needed to get it running faster than they would arrive. After searching for a while I found a copper washer at Fastenal that had a 1/4 inch ID and the OD was larger than the original washer. It was about twice as thick. The original was pretty thin and I figured a thicker one might provide a better sealing surface. I put a stack of the washers on a 1/4 inch bolt with nuts on each side and turned them down to within 0.002 inches of the original. Then put them in a vice and drilled out with a size O drill bit. Heated them cherry red to anneal them and they seam to work fine. No more leaks. I have the originals that I ordered now but got it running with no leaks with the ones I made up. Having a problem keeping batteries charged now. Will post a separate item for that. Thanks for your help.

If you think you are discharging your batteries while the machine is off, put a bulb or test light in series with 1 of you battery wires. if it lights up, you have a drain on the battery. If so, first thing I'd do is put the dead crank switch in the off position. If the drain is still there, disconnect the wires from the alternator and see if the light goes out. If the light goes out with the alternator disconnected, you have a problem in the alternator. I just experienced this problem on a machine earlier this week and haven't had time to troubleshoot the alternator, but I suspect there are diodes in there and 1 must have shorted out, But... for now, swapping the alternator fixed my battery drain.

Newb question here. 802a— I unfortunately have crankcase pressure, tested with a homemade manometer. I’d like to pull the injectors, soak the cylinders overnight with some WD40 or penetrating oil, in hopes that it may free up a sticky ring.

Once the injector hold down clamp is removed, do they pull straight out of the engine? Or, are the injectors threaded in?

Are there any positions or adjustments that need noted before removal? I don’t want to change timing, flow, etc.

Looks like it’s best to remove air filter assembly and muffler to access injectors?

Thanks for the help!

Whats the simptom of crank case pressure?

Bmxenbrett said:

Whats the simptom of crank case pressure?

Click to expand...

Are you asking what I am seeing that is leading me to believe I have a pressure issue? Made a manometer (water gauge) it’s pushing water up, indicating presssue. manual says there should be vacuum in crankcase, as some others here have set as well. It might not be the end of the world, but it doesn’t quite seem right.

Right now, the dipstick comes out more easily when the engine is running. I don’t want to start blowing out seals or causing other issues

Fastbrass, to answer about the injectors, just remove the hold down clamp, remove the line and they pull straight out. of it's stuck a bit you can twist and pull on the flat area just below the fuel line. If they are frozen in tight ( not likely ) I have used a small slide hammer to pull them out. A metric lug nut ( 12mm x 1.5 pitch if I recall ) will thread onto the fuel line thread, then hook slide hammer under the lug nut. There is nothing to worry about as far as position when you reinstall. Just watch out for the copper washer on the bottom of the injector, make sure you don't loose it. when you reinstall, its a good idea to heat the copper washer until cherry red then let it air cool, that will anneal it to help it seal better.
If you spray oil into cylinders, try to use a spray tube to get it around the edges, the pistons have a deep dish in the center so pouring oil into the cyl. will only fill up the dish, it won't all flow to the edges and get on the rings. Dead crank it to help distribute the oil.
If the machine smokes for 20 seconds or more at start up, that could be a sign of stuck rings and low cylinder pressure, occasionally a good workout will free up a stuck ring, if it isn't frozen in that bad.

Thankfully there's only black smoke right at startup, it clears out almost immediately. I've messaged a few others that had similar crankcase pressure symptoms, and they've led me to just decide to leave it for now. It's not blowing the dipstick out and has less than 1" of water pressure. I'm gunna get a load test running and let it run for a day, get some hours on it, and go from there.

Slightly unrelated, but what engine oil is everyone using in these?

Howdy,

Sticky here first --> MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts

2nd post has quick links to stuff
3rd post has the links to all the TM's you need.