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Thread: Axle swap or not

  1. #11
    General someoldmoose's Avatar
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    Great idea although I'd do the 700R4. No electronics.
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    Sergeant Major carter262's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input and ideas.

    I would prefer to do the full axle swap, but it appears to be more cost effective and for my use not necessary to just keep the axles I have. Plus I have another set sitting around if I need parts in the future.
    So now I need to decide on either 3.73 or 4.10. I what a lower gearing for towing the camper (around 3500lbs). 3.08 does fine going down the highway to the beach, but really really sucks in the mountains.

    So my M1009 is stock. I will be going to 33" tires to help with the top end speeds. I try not to do over 65 even now with it stock. Other than changing the tire size and gearing I'm leaving the rest of the drive train stock.

    Here are some numbers I have ran; do they seem right?
    Stock; 31" tires; 3:08 gearing (all based off 3rd gear)
    35mph 55mph 65mph
    1234 1940 2469 (RPMS)

    33" tires; 3:73 gearing (all basted off 3rd gear)
    35mph 55mph 65mph
    1404 2207 2608 (RPMS)

    33" tires; 4:10 gearing (all basted off 3rd gear)
    35mph 55mph 65mph
    1544 2426 2867 (RPMS)

    In my mind 4:10 would tow better, I just don't know how much better. Is the RPMs in acceptable ranges safe ranges?
    Last edited by carter262; 07-07-2018 at 16:45.
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    2 Star General Kaiser67M715's Avatar
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    With 4:10 I feel your pushing it with 65mph

    My 6.5 turbo, sm 465, 3.42 gears and 31" tires (actual road diameter 29.5") will do 55mph at 2200 rpms, and it likes when I get up to 65 at times, which is around 2600rpms. MPG really drops after that though.

    I would opt for 3.73 with 33" tires.

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    Sergeant Major carter262's Avatar
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    Update:

    So I ended up regearing instead of axel swap. Insides of Axel's look great and due to the cost and work and fact I don't get crazy off road I decided it was the best option for now

    I ended up with 4:10. I kept going back and forth with the decision but due to towing the camper I opted for the lower gear. I also got new 33"s put on the next day.

    I pulled the the reducer off the transfer case and put in a gray 44 tooth speedo gear. Now speedometer reads 55 mph and I am actually at 60 mph. So only 5 mph off. I can live with that. It cruises good at 60 mph. I probably want push it over that.

    Next lift. I wanted a 3", but the guy at the shop I deal with has a 4" rough country lift (front leaf springs & blocks in the rear) I can get for $250. Not the exact set up I wanted but I don't think I can pass up on the price, that is if it fits. He said it was for the suburban same year range and would fit my m1009. I need to confirm that before any money is exchanged. We will see.

    Thanks for the help!

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    General someoldmoose's Avatar
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    If you can get a 4" lift for $250 AND it's a complete kit, JUMP on it ( $100 an inch for solid axles is the "standard" ). It will fit. All solid axle K trucks used the same springs just with different numbers of plies for the GVW. A 1/2, 3/4 ton setup is identical. The 1 ton added another leaf and "helper" springs. All other components were the same. Easy, peasy, lemon squeezy !
    "7, 6, 2 millimeter. Full Metal Jacket . . ."

    She is Large, and Beautiful, and I shall call her . . . "Exit Strategy" 'cause I should prolly oughta have one.

    Somebody Important I guess -
    " Give a man a fish and he'll look atcha like, What the eff am I supposed to do with this? Teach a man to fish and he'll always have an excuse to hook up his Johnson equipped boat to get away from his Ol ' Lady and hang out on the lake." Or sumthin like that.

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    Default Axle swap or not

    I find 4” and 33” tires to be way too tall but I guess it’s all in personal tastes. I thought my 2” lift with 33” was too tall so I swapped to 35” tall tires.


    also chances are that rough country kit will ride harsh compared to springs from tuff country (who also makes their stuff in the USA). Check out the spring rates between companies in this chart

    https://ck5.com/forums/resources/spring-rate-table.14/
    Last edited by Ilikemtb999; 07-19-2018 at 16:32.
    1985 M1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by olly hondro View Post
    The CUCV 1008 pickup axles, like I have on my Blazer, are geared 4.56. With 37s the engine is working hard at 60 MPH. So, with the smaller 33s you are planning, yes, I agree 3.73 would be a good choice.
    So are you saying the 37's are too much for the gear ratio? I ask because I have the CUCV Blazer and just got my hands on the truck with 4.56 geared axles. I was thinking of doing the swap as the truck is kinda hashed out. Reeks of mouse urine! And they had a bale lifting hydraulic bed on it that they took off leaving no box so just cab and chassis right now. I was thinking of 35 in tires for my build as this is my current all around rig, hunting, mudding ect. and I figured that would be a good pairing so I still have power and can go over 55 mph. TIA

  8. #18
    4 Star General 98G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doci869 View Post
    So are you saying the 37's are too much for the gear ratio? I ask because I have the CUCV Blazer and just got my hands on the truck with 4.56 geared axles. I was thinking of doing the swap as the truck is kinda hashed out. Reeks of mouse urine! And they had a bale lifting hydraulic bed on it that they took off leaving no box so just cab and chassis right now. I was thinking of 35 in tires for my build as this is my current all around rig, hunting, mudding ect. and I figured that would be a good pairing so I still have power and can go over 55 mph. TIA
    I interpret what he's saying as even with 37's the rpms are high at 60mph.

    4.56's and 37's should be a good combination. 4.56's and 35's may result in too high of rpms st hwy speed, depending on your tolerance for rpm and just how much you drive interstate.

    Personally I'd go with the 37's if they clear in your application.

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