M 135 starting issue

My 135 ran fine when parked but it has sat for two years and it doesn't want to start. New points and condenser cleaned carb , seems to have good spark can the distributor jump and change the timing ? It tries to fire if I move the distributor as far as it will go towards the rear . When I got it it had a distributor from a newer 6 cyl but I put an original in it and seemed to run fine but the distributor had to be all the way to the rear to start and run . Does anyone have any ideas !

Welcome. Sounds like when you installed the waterproof distributor, you stabbed it a tooth or teeth off. As for now, do you have fresh clean gas in the truck? 2+ year old gas will not work well if at all.

Welcome to Steel Soldiers and 302 troubleshooting. I got 4 of them started so I have all kinds of ideas that usually don't work but I maintain enthusiasm and that's how you beat these trucks.

Troubleshooting the problem should start at top dead centre and being sure the distributor is in the position as outlined in ....the book.... Did you check out the Tech Manuals here on Steel Soldiers or do you have access to the TM's?
There is a section in 9-8024 page 217 that walks you through the steps for the 302. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?118-Korean-War-to-VietNam-War-Vehicles-TMs

I can't say I've had the problem you're describing so couldn't tell you if the distributor can 'skip' a tooth, I don't see how.

Fuel flow with the specified 3-5 lbs doesn't seem to be an issue for these engines either because our 'new starts' usually get fed from a Jerry can hanging on the mirror. The inline filter screen in the carb got me once but I'm guessing you've eliminated fuel as a problem.

Run through that ignition timing trouble shooting section and eliminate the dist location as a problem......If you add your province in your location line it'll tell folks where to bring extra tools to help.

Welcome aboard!

I am in Houston BC and any one who wants to come help is more than welcome , lots of room and lakes to fish in . The truck has a frame mounted pump so I will try a jerry can with fresh gas . I changed the distributor because the one it came with didn't have vacuum advance so the carburetor vacuum lines were just open to atmosphere . Any hints would be muchly appreciated as the truck is registered for the road and I really want to take I to get groceries .

All great info so far..i agree..first get the distributor lined up correctly..improper timing will melt pistons and burn valves if you leave it. Next make sure all your vacuum leaks are plugged..then go after the fuel. Its the safest way to go especially if youre running a temporary tank..itd be a shame to have it fart through the carb while youre top feeding it and you loose the unibrow ...ask me how i know.. 8-P

I'd ask the wife to detour up your way, we are just bedding down in sicamous for the night enroute to red deer, but i'm pretty sure i'd loose some fur.. shes been super patient this year and deserves to have the trip be about her.

Keep us posted, work from the tm's and we will do our best to help you dial it in.

Oh..and pictures..lotsa pictures.

Cheers

DUUANE said:

All great info so far..i agree..first get the distributor lined up correctly..improper timing will melt pistons and burn valves if you leave it. Next make sure all your vacuum leaks are plugged..then go after the fuel. Its the safest way to go especially if youre running a temporary tank..itd be a shame to have it fart through the carb while youre top feeding it and you loose the unibrow ...ask me how i know.. 8-P

I'd ask the wife to detour up your way, we are just bedding down in sicamous for the night enroute to red deer, but i'm pretty sure i'd loose some fur.. shes been super patient this year and deserves to have the trip be about her.

Keep us posted, work from the tm's and we will do our best to help you dial it in.

Oh..and pictures..lotsa pictures.

Cheers

Click to expand...

It's a good thing you mentioned fire because we don't talk about those little "pre-work" preparations enough. Whenever I'm working with gas the fire extinguisher, bucket of water and one of our best towels sits next to the truck. A wet towel for the carb when it starts on fire and a fire extinguisher for the truck when it starts on fire. Safety first.

We also pull the valve cover these days after firing up the M207 without checking push rods and rockers first. The M207 fired up but the noise coming out of the top end was nasty. Turned out that a push rod popped out of a lifter and was banging around under the valve cover. This could have been the reason the PO shut the truck down decades earlier. One of our finest mechanics was on hand to drop the rod back in and she's run periodically for 5 years now.

If they start with pushrods missing then I'm just guessing your problem is something simple and you'll be posting pictures of the truck in front of the grocery store real soon.

I've always wanted to go to Houston, just never thought it'd be in the North.

Yep safety first..my engine has a couple of pushrods in the wrong spots..not bent as far as i can tell..but definately out of the lifter..a side effect of valves stuck down..and possibly bent. All will be revealed when i peel the head off to have a peek inside the beast.
Another hot tip is eye protection..dont leave the couch without it. I'm usually religious about it and every single time i get complacent and just want to do that 1 quick measurement or whatever under the truck i manage to find that single spec of magical rust thats drawn like a magnet to my eye..

Well guys thanks for all the useful advice . I think I found the problem , it seems the distributor has enough adjustment so if you get the wires one position out it will start and run ! After much looking I found a picture of the distributor and wires and lo and behold I have number one wire one position out . I am going outside to rectify the problem now and see what happens . Tanks again guys , how do you post pictures on this site ?

Great find..glad you tracked down an easy solution!

It's not running yet

posting pictures a tutorial

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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59917-How-to-post-pictures-a-tutorial

Almost feel bad saying that we wheeled the deuce for a few hours today so I'll keep it quiet until you're up and running. I don't feel bad saying that the TM's solve almost every G749 problem. I can see the pictures and hear it running already.

Well..keep us posted

It is now running thanks for all your helpful info guys , now I can put the waterproof wires and plugs on .

Where would be a good starting settin for those air fuel mixture screws ?

There is a section on page 228 9-8024 that talks about finding adapters to hook up a tachometer and the pipe plug removal under intake for a vacuum gauge so that's a fun way to approach it. There should be 3 screws with the top one being idle and the bottom two being idle mixture. You're basically adjusting the idle screws until you get the best, steady vacuum. The idle is crazy low, sounds like a sewing machine around 375rpm.

Wish I could tell you to start at 1 turn out and go from there which is what Goose likes but I didn't hook up a vacuum gauge so that is not optimum or even correct....it just works.

Thanks , I saw somewhere in the manuals or on the Holley carb sites that you are supposed to do that adjustment with the unit in gear ? And does anyone know if you can post pictures on this site from an I phone ?

Yes you can post from a phone. "Go Advanced" and add photos

Pictures

Went to advanced and still can't upload pictures

That tutorial walked this landscaper through the process so if I can do it....anyone can do it.......Picture tutorial https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59917-How-to-post-pictures-a-tutorial

M 135

Thank you too all who provided info on my starting issues the truck runs great . I have taken it on some trips to town and the drag races lol. Now I can concentrate on getting the. Brakes tuned up , sorry I cannot post pictures or seem to update my profile !