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waste oil stove

sandcobra164

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Most of your diesel / kerosene jet flame type heaters should run just fine so long as it's filtered and blended with diesel or kerosene. Not sure how much smoke it might put off but if you do try it I'd be curious to know.
 

Wire Fox

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I made use of waste oil in an H45 tent heater. It was clean diesel mixed with contaminated diesel, a small amount of ATF, and additional small amount of WMO. Probably 3 gallons of clean diesel to 2 gallons of assorted waste. Heater lit and burned it adequately, but continuously burned rich...slightly excessive smoke, soot, and it liked to flare in the stack every once it a while. I didn't really need it for the heat and didn't like the extra cleaning it brought on, so I decided it was more useful fuel to help burn a pile of wet brush that needed gone, so I instead used it for that.
 

Reworked LMTV

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I don'r know about JP-8, but I would definitely NOT use WMO in this application. Way to many toxic substances. I would use a waste oil boiler such as Murphy's, or one at least one that the fumes are vented.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdkF49OGN-Y Looks clear enough to me. We use waste JP-8 drained out of vehicles at work. We sometimes have to clean the fuel lines and metering device but these heaters are extremely simple to work on.
 

Guyfang

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S
We (did) use a drip system into a 50 gallon drum in winter. (which means never over here now!)
In the 70's, one of my friends made one for our office. We had unlimited quantities of waste oil and diesel. He was a Cracker Jack welder, and used good, (Army) material. It worked great! The only down side is keeping it clean. That was a job for anyone who was currently in the dog house, so to speak. And it was not the safest thing in the world.

The guy who made it liked it so well, that when it came time for him to get out of the Army, he took it apart one night and packed it up in his household goods, and had the Army ship it to Kooska, Idaho. As it was Summer, no one noticed it until both him and the stove were long gone.
 

U1100L

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littleton ma
Really? mix waste oil and diesel in a torpedo heater..! Get a little dizzy with a nice headache or do you just blame it on the beers?
 

CGarbee

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Obviously, you need to think about venting...
I really like the simplicity of the builds done by a fellow in Australia...
The link has a lot of his Youtube videos, look for the ones about "shed heaters" for something that you could use indoors in a shop (they are his drum heaters...)
https://www.youtube.com/user/glumpy10/videos

Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing...
 

U1100L

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littleton ma
That guy is frightning! Look I made a big flame, zero control!

Now make it useful without killing anyone. Thats the real magic. Furnace/boiler..
 

URSATDX

Member
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Location
So Jersey, NJ
I run a clean burn waste oil heater at my shop.
Burns waste oil/atf.
21 years old w 22500 hrs on it.
180,000 btu.
Not homemade but an option.
 

Larry Weibert

Active member
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Youngstown New York
I bought a waste oil heater in 1998 to heat my shop. It required maintanance and over time i found many short comings of its design. I wound up building one with a vertical heat exghanger with 5 inch core tubes that could be more easily cleaned. A few things I learned from using them for 20 years. I bought cheap $20 temp controlled outlets from Fleabay. I use one to cycle the gun and one for the fans, when the thermo calls for heat the gun runs until the heater box gets to 375 degrees F. Then the gun shuts down until the box gets to 275 and repeats itself until the building thermo is satisfied. The other controller runs the air circ fans which is typical of other furnaces on at 130 off at 85. The high heat on the waste furnaces kills the heat exchangers. Cleaning them is important as well. I burn 3000 gals a year and its the biggest money saver I have in my shop.
 

URSATDX

Member
138
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Location
So Jersey, NJ
Lots of maintenance, no doubt. Mine is the only source for heat in my small (30'x30') building.
It has saved/made me $ over the years. The exchanger gets cleaned every 1k hours and the burner unit gets
a rebuild annually. We generate +/- 13k gals of waste oil per year. The unit burns 1 gal/hr.



I bought a waste oil heater in 1998 to heat my shop. It required maintanance and over time i found many short comings of its design. I wound up building one with a vertical heat exghanger with 5 inch core tubes that could be more easily cleaned. A few things I learned from using them for 20 years. I bought cheap $20 temp controlled outlets from Fleabay. I use one to cycle the gun and one for the fans, when the thermo calls for heat the gun runs until the heater box gets to 375 degrees F. Then the gun shuts down until the box gets to 275 and repeats itself until the building thermo is satisfied. The other controller runs the air circ fans which is typical of other furnaces on at 130 off at 85. The high heat on the waste furnaces kills the heat exchangers. Cleaning them is important as well. I burn 3000 gals a year and its the biggest money saver I have in my shop.
 
38
10
8
Location
27828
It's and old thread I know, but I built a "Babbington Ball style burner" a long time ago. It ran on used motor oil heated to 180"+, unfiltered and put out around 50K BTU. It's impossible to clog as no oil goes through an orifice. If you're in the military and had a hot meal out in the field during the gulfs wars, you probably had a meal heated on this style burner nozzle. http://www.babingtontechnology.com/ is the company that builds heating systems for the military.
 

Ray70

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Location
West greenwich/RI
I also have a Clean Burn 1800 at our car lot. It works very well but I only use it a little bit since it's not my primary shop location.
At my shop at home I'm using an oil fired Crown boiler with a Carlin burner to heat a radiant floor system.
After Initial thoughts of buying another used Clean Burn unit ( and having to install another SS chimney ) I came across a complete WMO retrofit burner that would drop right in place of the current Carlin burner. ( American made unit with a lift pump feeding the burner directly from a storage tank , not the cheaper Chinese units with an attached float controlled box for a tank )
I also cam across some kits you can buy to convert a Beckett AFG to burn WMO.
Anyone have any experience or thoughts on these "conversion" kits?
I'd like to have a single boiler that can run WMO and HHO or a mixture of both, which I believe will work with both the Clean Burn and the retrofit burners.
 

U1100L

Member
64
4
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Location
littleton ma
Go to jail,been waiting for that.

Waste oil burner is strictly for waste. They do not self adjust,flash points are different to say the least.

If you want to put it in a boiler that is another set of issues. Can not run the same cycle as #2 burner, will have a soot problem along with possible flame impindgement.

Nothing from #2 fired burners apply to waste oil especially in a boiler. Effcy' kit and/or numbers throw it out the window.

Never!! run a waste oil burner in a residential furnace!!

Don't sacrifice the Crown boiler. Keep it as primary, get a 2nd boiler for waste and have that feed the Crown. When the waste fails 'cause they all do, the Crown will pick up like nothing even happened.

I don't have alot of confidence in those kits. An old HS Clean Burn is adjustable so is Firelake/Shannadoa. Kagi is OK like a newer model HS
The firelake is a Becket chassis and by far the easiest to work on.

Stay away from metering pumps for you will need all the adjustment in a boiler.

Those morons are you tube that make a big flame, ok. The trick is to make it controlled and useful.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
West greenwich/RI
Ok, got it. Maybe I will look into the Firelake units or just keep a constant eye out for another good deal on a used Clean Burn.
Since I have radiant in the floor I really should look into evacuated solar tubes, but too many other irons in the fire right now!
 
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