MEP-002A circuit board picture or diagram

I just bought this unit yesterday and am going over it. The first problem I found was the 24V voltage regulator wires were all disconnected but I found a picture here and have it connected. I checked the red marked wire and it didn't have 24V so I traced the wire to the control panel. The circuit board mounted to the right inside surface of the box was completely disconnected. I need a picture of one or a good diagram to reconnect all the wires. I suspect that the board is bad but I have to start somewhere.
The board is marked A2 30554ASSY72-5020 MFR 02032
I'm not even sure it is the correct board because it has tan paint all over it and the generator is all green. I suspect this unit was used for spare parts to fix other units.
I just found this board in one of the manuals. It's the A/C voltage regulator.j
After a bunch of searching and then making this post I found the diagram I needed. I also found out why it isn't connected or at least one reason. All the eyelets on the wires are slightly too large to fit. I guess I'll file them a little...
Thanks!

The -12 TM will have the diagram as well as the top of the control box should have a diagram that’s much more clear.



Is this the board you are referring to?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tripplejim on this board makes an excellent direct replacement VR for your set.

After hooking up the DC voltage regulator and AC regulator board the starter relay would click but the starter solenoid wouldn't do anything. Further investigation revealed the reason I didn't have 24V at the DC regulator. Some smart guy that installed the starter switched the positive and negative feeds to the system P55 and P50. With those connected correctly the electric fuel pumps run now and the starter spins the engine.
But no start...
Poked around a little more and the return lines from the injectors to the pump are disconnected at the pump and no fuel is leaking. I guess the injection pump is bad or stopped up. Fun. I guess the next step is to loosen in fuel in at the injection pump and see if I actually have fuel there.

Yes, Dock that is the board. I got it all hooked up. The diagram on the top of the box is faded so badly that it isn't a lot of help. Thanks!
Thanks jastacitizen I may need one but now I need to get it running...

Before you go any further, take the center cap off the injector pump (the cap that's in the center between the injector lines). Then you will have another 13mm cap to take off. When your taking the 13mm cap off be careful because as soon as you take it off, there is a spring and metering valve that may fall out. Take everything out and you should see the top of the plunger. Now rotate the motor over by hand and see if the plunger moves toward and away from you. If it doesn't (which I bet it doesn't) spray with carb cleaner and hit lightly with a brass punch, then rotate the motor some more and repeat. Keep doing this until the plunger moves in and out without any problem. Finally, reassemble and try to start. Hopefully the plunger didn't get stuck in the downward position and jam up the plunger which resulted in the plunger guide breaking.

That's great. Hopefully I'll have time to try it tomorrow. I already took the outer cap off and the inner one looked like some kind of adjustment. It isn't? Do I need to count the threads or just tighten it all the way when I put it back on?
Thanks!

No adjustment.
They do have torque specs but I never torque them. Just put them back on tight as possible.

I can't get the inner plunger to budge so I'm guessing that it's all the way down and something is broken inside. Next problem - I removed the 4 allens and I can't get it apart. Should I take the 4 nuts off an remove the whole thing?

joelsplace said:

I can't get the inner plunger to budge so I'm guessing that it's all the way down and something is broken inside. Next problem - I removed the 4 allens and I can't get it apart. Should I take the 4 nuts off an remove the whole thing?

Click to expand...

So you took the spring metering valve and holder out to see the plunger? Some people don't remove everything and think they are seeing the plunger but they are not. Check out the attachment for the breakdown. Keep spraying carb cleaner into it and also take off the supply fuel line and spray into the pump with more carb cleaner and tap with the punch. It will break loose just be patient.
https://cdn.greenmountaingenerators...etering-MEP002A-MEP003A-50-2-4A-80A-9540A.pdf
Now, if you have to take the pump apart, the only way is to take the pump off completely. After removing the 4 allen bolts you have to take the control lever (the lever connected to the governor linkage) out the side of the pump, then the top half (where you took the allen bolts out) will come off.

jamawieb said:

So you took the spring metering valve and holder out to see the plunger? Some people don't remove everything and think they are seeing the plunger but they are not. Check out the attachment for the breakdown. Keep spraying carb cleaner into it and also take off the supply fuel line and spray into the pump with more carb cleaner and tap with the punch. It will break loose just be patient.
https://cdn.greenmountaingenerators...etering-MEP002A-MEP003A-50-2-4A-80A-9540A.pdf
Now, if you have to take the pump apart, the only way is to take the pump off completely. After removing the 4 allen bolts you have to take the control lever (the lever connected to the governor linkage) out the side of the pump, then the top half (where you took the allen bolts out) will come off.

Click to expand...

Be nice to have a diagram like that for the 803a metering pumps.

There is no need for an exploded picture, its considered a non repairable item. Even Lister Petter consider them no repairable. Other then taking them apart and soaking them in carb cleaner, not much else to do.