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Thread: Best Civi 2 inch hitch?

  1. #11
    Corporal swinters's Avatar
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    I have a class 5 that I bought brand new and it won't mount to the frame of my M1028 without messing with the hardware and bracing for the pintle hitch and I didn't want to do that. I ended up putting on one of those 5000 lb. rated step bumper receivers from Harbor Freight as a temporary solution and it works so well that I'm leaving it. I mainly pull either a 12 foot aluminum boat on a trailer or a small enclosed trailer with camping gear in it so it's fine for my needs. If you're going to haul something like a dump trailer full of wet dirt or something like that then you might need to look at another option but one of these bolted to a CUCV bumper is pretty beefy. I made a 1/4" plate that sits in the recessed "step" center part of the bumper and then went through the bottom two pintle bracket holes and two holes in the plate lined up with the elongated safety chain holes in the bumper (the receiver has safety chain eyes) with bolts to mount the receiver. Grade 8s are designed for a shear load and are correct for this kind of an application. If the bolts are in a tension load, like the 4 bolts that mount the pintle, a grade 5 is stronger than an 8. Truth in advertising here - I had 4 of the right size grade 5's so stuck them in and they're still there and I've towed everything up to a 16 foot camping trailer. It's on my to-do list to change them but every time I go to the hardware place I forget to get them. Thanks to this thread they just made it to my tomorrow list (they're closed today). My other truck is a GMC 1 ton with the LBZ Duramax/Allison package so it sees the heavy stuff.

  2. #12
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    If the trailer is heavy enough to need trailer brakes, you need a class 3 or 4 hitch, class 5 is a new one to me, but I tow skidsteers and the like with the one I linked above.

    I believe the thing you have to get out of the way is the original pintle hitch bracing, as swinters posted above, but that hitch has a limited load capacity, and is higher from ground than you want for most trailers. If you intend to haul military trailers speced to that class of vehicle, keep it original, otherwise you need a frame mounted receiver hitch.. You can probably figure how to have both, but it will require more work than cutting the support strap out of the way.

  3. #13
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    Thanks man - yes i'm trying to figure how to have both...

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    I ordered a bolt on kit from etrailer and took all the parts to my friend who is a welder. He looked at me and said, "these parts are for people who don't know me" and proceeded to throw all but the center section in the scrap metal bin and went to work. I am confident that my hitch will never go anywhere. This is the only pic I have that is handy but I can take some detailed pics of just how he set up my hitch if you are interested.

    9E29A2CC-F7A0-4804-B139-B7495439EDBE.jpg

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    4 Star General snowtrac nome's Avatar
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    my suggestion would be to go with a direct fit drawtite hitch. You can pick up a class 3 or 4 receiver at u haul and other dealers. In another life when I was younger I did hitch installation's and the draw tites had the best fit and quality.

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    Sergeant Major Rutjes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glockfan View Post
    I ordered a bolt on kit from etrailer and took all the parts to my friend who is a welder. He looked at me and said, "these parts are for people who don't know me" and proceeded to throw all but the center section in the scrap metal bin and went to work. I am confident that my hitch will never go anywhere. This is the only pic I have that is handy but I can take some detailed pics of just how he set up my hitch if you are interested.

    9E29A2CC-F7A0-4804-B139-B7495439EDBE.jpg
    I don't want to hijack this thread, but I would like to see those detailed pictures. Might give me some ideas on how to do mine.

    I had replaced my pintle hitch with a Rockinger hitch (1st pic), works great although a bit too high and the bracing sits in the way of my K5 tank swap. I liked the look of the hitch on the Iveco Daily I drive for work (2nd pic) over the current (OEM?) ball hitch setup so I measured it, size is perfect, but the bumper/shackle mounts sit in the way. If I can get that on I can either put a Rockinger Variobloc (3rd pic) on it so I can switch hitch type as needed, or if I can angle the hitch in the 1st pic a bit, it can stay there and a permanent ball hitch can be mounted on the Daily hitch frame.

    IMG_20170611_151510(1).jpgtrekhaak.jpg431427431_1-rockinger-variobloc-ro100.jpg
    Last edited by Rutjes; 08-06-2018 at 19:01.
    1984 Chevrolet M1028
    1985 Chevrolet M1009

  8. #17
    4 Star General snowtrac nome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rutjes View Post
    I don't want to hijack this thread, but I would like to see those detailed pictures. Might give me some ideas on how to do mine.

    I had replaced my pintle hitch with a Rockinger hitch (1st pic), works great although a bit too high and the bracing sits in the way of my K5 tank swap. I liked the look of the hitch on the Iveco Daily I drive for work (2nd pic) over the current (OEM?) ball hitch setup so I measured it, size is perfect, but the bumper/shackle mounts sit in the way. If I can get that on I can either put a Rockinger Variobloc (3rd pic) on it so I can switch hitch type as needed, or if I can angle the hitch in the 1st pic a bit, it can stay there and a permanent ball hitch can be mounted on the Daily hitch frame.

    IMG_20170611_151510(1).jpgtrekhaak.jpg431427431_1-rockinger-variobloc-ro100.jpg


    Thats the problem with those universal hitches they never fit quite right and sometimes hang pretty low. The drawtite will fit under the bumper tight and hold more weight than a blazer can safely pull.

  9. #18
    2 Star General olly hondro's Avatar
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    Default "with a torch & welder you can do anything"

    Thats an old Indian saying that I just made up.
    CUCV hitch mod.jpg
    1997 M1078.
    Detriot No-Spin rear, looking for a Truetrac for the front.

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dependable View Post
    Better off with a class 4 if you want to tow anything.

    https://trailerparts.com/vehicle-hit...-receiver.html
    I know it's an old thread, but now's the time for me.

    If I go with the one in the link, will I have to remove the pintle and pintle mounts at all? I can live with getting rid of the spare tire as I might end up mounting it in the bed anyways. Also, will I have to remove the bed to mount the bolts on the top?

  11. #20
    4 Star General Keith_J's Avatar
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    Draw Tite 41938 works well. Class V, attached with 8 bolts (9/16"), 4 holes line up but may need reaming as holes are punched prior to folding the rails so the holes deform. The other 4 holes are a bear to drill, I took the time to do a modified spit point grind on a Silver and Deming (reduced shank) bit in my 1/2" drill. This spotted the hole perfectly, then using a split point (factory grind) to pilot drill.



    The only modification needed on a stock CUCV is removal of the frame extension brackets which bolt to the web of the frame. You can still have the frame extensions but do not rely on them for any towing purposes. With welding, they can be modified.

    I left out the vertical bolting on the extensions, using these holes to mount the Schraeder valves for my Air Lift suspension bags. Hidden and safe plus no real work to mount the valves.
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    1986 M1031 SECM.
    1985 MEP 002A
    1974 MEP 026C, eventually converting to electric start.

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