PVC beadlocks

I'm thinking of making some PVC beadlocks to replace the runflat when I change out the tires.
What size PVC is best?
I'm thinking either a Schedule 40 18" which has an inside diameter of 16.8
or
Schedule 80 18" which has an inside diameter of 16" (not sure if this one will fit on the rim though)

has anyone out there made these themselves?

They are readily available from Trail Worthy Fab. I’m running them in my 12-bolts and they are perfect. Easy to install and already chamfered and prepped for the air valve.

Sharecropper said:

They are readily available from Trail Worthy Fab. I’m running them in my 12-bolts and they are perfect. Easy to install and already chamfered and prepped for the air valve.

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Thanks i've seen their offering.
but since I've worked with large diameter PVC and have no problem cutting or chamfering it I figured I'd save some cash by picking up some pipe from the local industrial plumbing supply company and doing it myself.
Trailworthy fab charges $49 for one piece of PVC, + shipping...
if they were $20 i'd buy them, otherwise i'm gonna try making them myself.
just want to avoid buying the wrong diameter pipe.

1993 said:

Thanks i've seen their offering.
but since I've worked with large diameter PVC and have no problem cutting or chamfering it I figured I'd save some cash by picking up some pipe from the local industrial plumbing supply company and doing it myself.
Trailworthy fab charges $49 for one piece of PVC, + shipping...
if they were $20 i'd buy them, otherwise i'm gonna try making them myself.
just want to avoid buying the wrong diameter pipe.

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What about balancing them ?

porkysplace said:

What about balancing them ?

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I imagine they'll balance more easily than the runflats

Trail Worthy’s insert has some material removed and a hole drilled to accommodate the valve stem nut and to allow the air to equalize on both sides of the insert. So after you install the insert into the tire and you are ready to drop the tire and insert over the inner part of the wheel, you need to orient the insert so that this gap will index at the same position as the valve stem. Regarding balancing, I used Balance Masters behind each wheel with excellent results, however other guys have used Air Soft beads, BBs, and other things.

A little off topic...could be a new one?

I never had run flats until the Hmmwv, three years ago. I'am here to say from lessons learned they have saved my bacon on numerous times, allowing me to limp back to much better place to swap wheels. One time 7 miles back to home. (guess I was lazy that time) Once they blow / let down you almost don"t know it, till things get a little squirrel-ie. At that point their junk anyway so cruse on, carefully. Running around here in the Mojave Desert at 115 degrees, 58 MPH top cruising speed, run flats have been a life saver / non issue.

The reason after a short learning curve is that all of the tires that it came with looked good were over 10 years old. (MT's) It would be interesting to hear from the guys what date codes are showing up on their rigs now or from auction? Have new ones now with run flats, that's how we roll.

Always wondered how those big fat 37 inch tires would handle when they would let go and no run flat. I am thinking "bang" and you are the rim, sparks a flying.

Another life saving Hmmwv word: "RHINO" no it's not "AAA"

Best money spent to save your back with the fat, a bitch to lift, tire assemblies.

Ratchet and roll,

CAM

Milcommoguy said:

A little off topic...could be a new one?

I never had run flats until the Hmmwv, three years ago. I'am here to say from lessons learned they have saved my bacon on numerous times, allowing me to limp back to much better place to swap wheels. One time 7 miles back to home. (guess I was lazy that time) Once they blow / let down you almost don"t know it, till things get a little squirrel-ie. At that point their junk anyway so cruse on, carefully. Running around here in the Mojave Desert at 115 degrees, 58 MPH top cruising speed, run flats have been a life saver / non issue.
snip
The reason after a short learning curve is that all of the tires that it came with looked good were over 10 years old. (MT's)

snip
Always wondered how those big fat 37 inch tires would handle when they would let go and no run flat. I am thinking "bang" and you are the rim, sparks a flying.

CAM

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All the more reason I’m fine sticking with my 6.2L NA and TH400 3-speed tranny, tooling along on side roads at 30-45mph mostly.

I bought 7 of the PVC inserts.
Ended up only using 5 .
Have 2 left over.
the ones I have are a bluish green or greenish blue in color. not white like normal PVC .
Not exactly sure they are PVC might be some variant of it however.

Milcommoguy said:

A little off topic...could be a new one?

I never had run flats until the Hmmwv, three years ago. I'am here to say from lessons learned they have saved my bacon on numerous times, allowing me to limp back to much better place to swap wheels. One time 7 miles back to home. (guess I was lazy that time) Once they blow / let down you almost don"t know it, till things get a little squirrel-ie. At that point their junk anyway so cruse on, carefully. Running around here in the Mojave Desert at 115 degrees, 58 MPH top cruising speed, run flats have been a life saver / non issue.

The reason after a short learning curve is that all of the tires that it came with looked good were over 10 years old. (MT's) It would be interesting to hear from the guys what date codes are showing up on their rigs now or from auction? Have new ones now with run flats, that's how we roll.

Always wondered how those big fat 37 inch tires would handle when they would let go and no run flat. I am thinking "bang" and you are the rim, sparks a flying.

Another life saving Hmmwv word: "RHINO" no it's not "AAA"

Best money spent to save your back with the fat, a bitch to lift, tire assemblies.

Ratchet and roll,

CAM

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good point.
in trying to decide i’ve gone back and forth between runflats and beadlocks several times. my main concerns are getting them to balance nice so they roll smooth on pavement and also to get some weight out of them for more power and fuel efficiency. (i have a 6.2)heavy wheels suck horsepower more than having that same weight in the truck.
i plan on having a spare on a rear tire carrier but run flats still have an appeal even if it’s only that i can keep driving until i find a good place to stop.
maybe i’ll stick with them after all...

in searching for a good description I found this on the following website(not trying to plagiarize) : https://rallyways.com/10869/lightweight-wheels/

1. Sprung Weight / Mass

The sprung weight is the total weight of all parts on the car that is supported by the car’s suspension. Some examples are the engine, exhaust system, bodywork and interior parts.

2. Unsprung Weight / Mass

The unsprung weight is the total weight of parts that are NOT supported by the car’s suspension. We’re talking about the shock absorbers, springs, suspension links, axles, the braking system and of course also wheels and tires.
Now, it is the unsprung weight of the vehicle that directly affects driving feel of a car. The smaller the amount of unsprung weight, the more effectively the suspension will be able to do its “stabilizing” job on uneven roads. So reducing the unsprung weight will result in an overall better handling car with a better driving feel.

3. Rotational Weight / Mass

Additionally, we have the rotational weightof the car. These are the parts that rotate, such as the drive shafts, wheels and tires. The amount of rotational weight will play a big role in the performance of the car. The lower the weight of these components, the less energy is required to accelerate and decelerate. This will enhance the car’s performance. Additionally, the further away from the rotational axis the weight is located, the more of a negative impact it will have on performance.
For example, a wheel that carries more of its weight around the outer edge of the wheel will perform worse than a wheel of the same weight that has most of that weight closer to the hub.

Bottom-line, when installing heavier wheels, you are actually adding unsprung and rotational weight to your car, which will have a bigger negative impact on the handling and performance of your car than any other similar weight added to the car elsewhere.

Might be overthinking this a little. Fresh springs / matched to your load could help. I don't see a lot of wiggle room in the Hmmwv suspension. Every military rig I have owned never saw the fast lane. All of them road a bit stiff. Responsive and agile the M38A1, M37 road really smooth but handling was a bear. M1009 and M1008 more modern handling, Hummwv kind of a mix of all. With a few creature - feature modifications I add, all were basically factory as built. So that is the way I rolled.

So for me, It is simple to work on, easy (usually) to get to those parts and find those parts. Lots of times I ask myself "What were they thinking" but stick to the basic drawing with the big nut and bolts.

Its been a fun hobby and the ride is slow and bumpy as expected for a thirty plus year old trucks.

If it road like a passenger car everyone would want to ride in it. WAIT, they do now! LOL

Sure and slow, lots of noise.

CAM

So, in using the beadlocks - no blast can is needed to seat the bead to the rim since it is locked when the tow wheel halves are torques together?

That's how it's been for me. Keep things lined up and clean for a good seal.

CAM

How the ##*&@$## do I get the PVC locks in the tire, not like you can deform them like run flats

Mogman said:

How the ##*&@$## do I get the PVC locks in the tire, not like you can deform them like run flats

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I found a video, makes it look easy, we will see......