All of the blackout lights are present in my truck. The toggle switches are there. All of the lights are physically plugged in behind the bumpers. However, the lights do nothing and the switches do nothing in any configurations. Is there any sort of commonly used way to disable the toggle switches that you guys use? I’d like to have everything back in working order. I searched, but may have overlooked a simple answer.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Blackout toggles do nothing
- Thread starter KI4FKW
- Start date
- 275
- 3
- 18
- Location
- pefferlaw ontario
check and clean all the connections to start,
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,271
- 9,596
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Using a test lamp check if current is going to the lights at the bumpers. They should have current in B/O and also the B/O drive lamp in the grille is probably rusted beyond repair. The grounds on every light need to be cleaned and re-grounded to a clean surface. I am sure you will break the studs that hold the B/O lamps to the brackets on the bumper. Good Luck.
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
- 4,524
- 809
- 113
- Location
- Virginia
Folks, if the BO light switches don't disable the running lights, the most likely explanation is that the switches have been deliberately bypassed. Even if someone cut out all of the BO lights, the switches would still disable the running lights.
KW, can you clarify if the switches disable the running lights? OR, are you saying that the BO lights won't come on when they should.
KW, can you clarify if the switches disable the running lights? OR, are you saying that the BO lights won't come on when they should.
nyoffroad
Well-known member
- 901
- 617
- 93
- Location
- Rochester NY
Stupid question, are you sure the BO lights aren't working? If you've never seen them in use in the military then they may be on and you wouldn't even know it, to make sure check them at night and look in the 'cats eye'. Just hopeing thats all it is.
- 9,604
- 1,485
- 113
- Location
- mid- michigan
Have you pulled the switches to see if there are any jumper wires .
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
- 4,524
- 809
- 113
- Location
- Virginia
This is not about the BO lights not working!
MarcusOReallyus
Well-known member
- 4,524
- 809
- 113
- Location
- Virginia
Yep. That's where you need to go next.
Once you get the dash panel off (just a few screws), you'll find 4 pop rivets holding the switch mount to the dash. They have to be drilled out to get to the switch connections.
But, I'll be you will have nice shiny new ones, or maybe something else holding them. I'm betting you'll find they were bypassed. If you do, please post some pics of what was done, so we can all see.
cucvmule
collector of stuff
- 1,140
- 565
- 113
- Location
- Crystal City Mo
Yikes, ok do the headlights and parking lights work properly when the headlight switch is pulled on? Yes, then the service light switch is either toggled up or it is bypassed completely somewhere by the toggle switch. Leave headlights off, right toggle drive lights down then left toggle blackout on go up and let go back to center. Now all blackout lights on until you toggle left toggle down, toggle returns to center, all blackout lights off.
Now all lights off until right service light switch is toggled up and stays there. Now headlight switch works as it should like civi truck. I just went outside to look at, also under dash and you can see clearly under without much heartache to see if wiring has been molested at toggle switches. Grounding wires are very important in this wiring setup as there is no metal contact as all blackout lights are plastic. cuvrus has very good advise and use test light to verify that you have current as afterall they are plastic and 30 plus years old. Good Luck
- 9,604
- 1,485
- 113
- Location
- mid- michigan
Proper operation of the switches is also covered in the -10 TM
Well, I go look under the dash and see that the rivets are stil in place, both switchhes are there, no obvious jumpers (I’m no expert).
View attachment 737413View attachment 737414
As I go to get up, I notice something tucked up over some wires....
View attachment 737415
Now that I look I notice the left switch is not original.
View attachment 737416
Looks like I have some figureing to do.
The switches still appear to do nothing.
View attachment 737413View attachment 737414
As I go to get up, I notice something tucked up over some wires....
View attachment 737415
Now that I look I notice the left switch is not original.
View attachment 737416
Looks like I have some figureing to do.
The switches still appear to do nothing.
Last edited:
- 9,604
- 1,485
- 113
- Location
- mid- michigan
Picture #1 shows a blue splice and any of them will give you problems , they usually cut the wire the are spliced into and always corrode . I consider those connectors a last resort , even the ones with silicone in the are a last resort.
Yeah, I see it now. There is another one too.
I know now that they have bypassed the switches. My next feat is figuring out what the left switch goes to to see if I. Can eliminate it and undoing the bypass.
The only thing on the truck that I have found to be electrical and unoriginal is a trailer brake controller. No evidence of old fog lights, radios, or anything else so far.
I know now that they have bypassed the switches. My next feat is figuring out what the left switch goes to to see if I. Can eliminate it and undoing the bypass.
The only thing on the truck that I have found to be electrical and unoriginal is a trailer brake controller. No evidence of old fog lights, radios, or anything else so far.
Last edited: