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Looking for a Rockwell axle shop
- Thread starter Spoolinup
- Start date
- 333
- 261
- 63
- Location
- Denver, Colorado
If you've got decent dexterity, and a few handtools, the guy in the mirror could probably put on a set of zipper-type boots without much problem.
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- 333
- 261
- 63
- Location
- Denver, Colorado
I've got the same problem here with sloping asphalt everywhere... I just remove one wheel/do one boot, hub, etc. at a time, with it in gear, brake set, fuel shut-off locked, and chock the bejesus outta the tires that are still on the ground.
- 333
- 261
- 63
- Location
- Denver, Colorado
I bought/installed a set of zipper boots from Erik's about a year and a half/7,000 miles ago, and they're doing great. From what I've read, seems the quality has gotten much better over the last few years. If you need to disassemble the ends of the axle, or just want to, to inspect and learn how it all goes together, then the solid boots may be the way to go. But in your case (limited time) the zipper jobs may work really well for you. Works much better if someone can help you for just the few minutes it takes on each side to accurately place and secure the big rings, otherwise, it's really pretty easy. - MN
- 6,426
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- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Remember that it has to be clean before putting on replacement boot, Dawn is your friend for cleaning it up.
One can just use a longer replacement take up screw, needle nose Vise Grips, to run the socket wrench on the nut. Erwin clamps are the things to have. Not a difficult job but it has to be clean and the Erwin helping hands work good.
It was 92F° in the shade when I last did the job, so yes, a frosty mug helps too.
One can just use a longer replacement take up screw, needle nose Vise Grips, to run the socket wrench on the nut. Erwin clamps are the things to have. Not a difficult job but it has to be clean and the Erwin helping hands work good.
It was 92F° in the shade when I last did the job, so yes, a frosty mug helps too.
- 333
- 261
- 63
- Location
- Denver, Colorado
Just like Frank did, it's a very good idea to at least double-nut the ring screws. He went all-out and even nylocked 'em too... nice.
- 6,426
- 4,976
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
These photos depict the grease outlet hole which should be pulled and cleaned out and is removed when greasing.
It is in the TM.
Think nomenclature, dust boots, boots are NOT something to hold IN grease.
It says dust boots, not grease boots.
Grease of any flavor, even GAA eats boots.
Grease is NOT to be inside the boots.
Clean it and clean it again. One may see much more life out of the boots that way.
Just attempting to help.
The TM is available just about everywhere. PM and I will send it.
It is in the TM.
Think nomenclature, dust boots, boots are NOT something to hold IN grease.
It says dust boots, not grease boots.
Grease of any flavor, even GAA eats boots.
Grease is NOT to be inside the boots.
Clean it and clean it again. One may see much more life out of the boots that way.
Just attempting to help.
The TM is available just about everywhere. PM and I will send it.
- 6,426
- 4,976
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Note the TM 9-2320-361-20 section 7.9 does describe zipper boots for replacement
if that is all there is to be done. And grease the fittings on the front while the boot is off, clean off grease where it is not supposed to be, then put on the new ziper boot.
There is still this out there about axles and dust boots. Very enlightening.
View attachment Front axle seals and boots stepXstep.pdf
if that is all there is to be done. And grease the fittings on the front while the boot is off, clean off grease where it is not supposed to be, then put on the new ziper boot.
There is still this out there about axles and dust boots. Very enlightening.
View attachment Front axle seals and boots stepXstep.pdf