Start up after long time advice

Watching this thread to get hints on getting my 2nd Deuce started. As the weather starts to cool down & no more hurricanes show up, one of us will get our trucks running first.

FloridaAKM said:

Watching this thread to get hints on getting my 2nd Deuce started. As the weather starts to cool down & no more hurricanes show up, one of us will get our trucks running first.

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I hope it's me because I plan on doing it this weekend, or at least attempting to.

You are most likely closer to running than my Deuce due to a probable button that might have fallen off the hydraulic head before I got it; I still have to pull it to see.

Good luck with your truck.

The proudest moment of working on my truck was when I got it running after it had sat for 12 years. It even ran on the fuel that was in the tank all that time (was a full tank and had been treated by previous owner, who never got the truck running).

I did have to replace the button clip in the hydraulic head. It was a little nerve racking to jump in there myself, but it all worked out.

I second the advice to move the truck first if you have the ability, and DEFINITELY put a tarp under the truck if you pull anything small apart in the fuel control and hydraulic head / injection pump. I didn't, and had to use magnets to find my clip. Took me forever and almost kept my truck from running. Now I work on it in my asphalt driveway.

Ok here's a quick update for anybody bored enough to be interested. Got the fuel control out and soaking in some of that chem dip carburetor cleaner I had laying around, I forgot the acetone but can get some later. I'm afraid I might have already messed up though because I pulled the little thing that looks like a hammer completely out, but put it right back in though. It came out of the pump just like in the picture,already particularly pulled out, did I change the setting on it somehow, what would happen if something got moved?

I don't really understand how this little piece could have locked it in the off position, if I hold the horizontal piece that mounts up against the pump the fuel control will move, it's a little stiff feeling but not locked up. Actually it started moving when I loosened the screws , they were really tight however. I'm thinking I should have just left it that way and tried starting it maybe, wrong?

I was going to put batteries in it to check the fuel pump but can't find that piece of short cable that connects the batteries together.








Edit: Found short battery cable in the M1009 , Deuce has power now and when I turn switch on fuel gushes out of open fuel control hole, so pump seems to be working thankfully.

The two little screws, secured with safety wire, should not be tight. Just enough to hold everything but not impair movement.

cattlerepairman said:

The two little screws, secured with safety wire, should not be tight. Just enough to hold everything but not impair movement.

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Ok, got it, but why were they so tight when I took it off?
Also, I put a funnel under the hole and let it pump out around a gallon of that old fuel, it started coming out smelling and looking fresh, so I imagine that flushed the filters out also.

Edit: Thinking about this, maybe the screws weren't really tight but a combination of heated oil and fuel caused them to kind of be stuck, like lock tight ? They couldn't have really been that tight or the engine never would have operated, right? After they broke loose I easily screwed them out using my fingers.

Here is the video, I can't believe I figured out how to put it on here.

https://youtu.be/n0MzOtckeG0

Ok guys, there has to be something else going on here. Every time I reinstall the fuel control it gets stuck at at around 4 or 5 o'clock position. What else could make it stick? What would happen if I put it back together in the shutdown position and then stuffed something like a jacket in the air inlet and cranked the engine? Would it break loose whatever is holding it stuck?
Thank you!

I am wondering if you collar is getting stuck / sticky on the plunger. When we get ready to install a Head when we turn it up side down the sleeve must be free enough to slide down by its self. Then turning it up right and it falls back down.

Floridianson said:

I am wondering if you collar is getting stuck / sticky on the plunger. When we get ready to install a Head when we turn it up side down the collar must be free enough to slide down by its self. Then turning it up right and it falls back down.

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Does this mean I will now have to remove the hydraulic head?

Edit: I decided to take a calculated risk and hit the fuel control with a screwdriver handle, I figured if it couldn't take that much punishment there was no hope anyway. It apparently broke loose and now moves even better than the first time I put it back in, it really springs back now.

However, now it moves freely regardless of how tight the screws are, they are really tight in the video. What do you guys think, did I hurt anything, will it work now? Can I safely try to start it now? Thank you!

https://youtu.be/Q8LkFDcFDcU

Looks good and free so push the shut down cable in to the run position and replace the shut down cover.

Finally, mission accomplished! Thanks to everyone for the help, and special thanks to Floridianson.

First I turned the engine over with the stop pulled out.
https://youtu.be/Nfb74QorwFQ

Then I started it ,but didn't want to race the engine so I didn't give it any fuel, that was a mistake I guess, but it started. Sorry the camera fell off. I think I hear something clicking, does it sound ok?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wjNbvUGyZZc&t=59s

Here is the exhaust sound, it almost sounds like a whistler here, but AFAIK it's not.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nlKey_K08-4

I drove it up next to the house where it's level and I can get to it better. It's surging at idle though, just like it was when I stopped driving it a few years ago and it won't run without the idle control pulled out some. Any ideas what could be causing it, filters maybe? Thanks again!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K8Ggg339zDc


I

The truck wants to idle at 700-900 rpm. That means pulling the hand throttle, especially when the engine is cold. Totally normal. Once warm, you can usually click it in a couple of notches. If you pull the hand throttle and the engine is somewhat warmed up, at 900 rpm and constantly "hunting"/surging would suggest air in the fuel line. A bit of surging when cold is also normal.

I watched your video and the surging there is definitely not normal. Does it do that when you try to run it at let's say 900 rpm or is that with the hand throttle completely in?

cattlerepairman said:

The truck wants to idle at 700-900 rpm. That means pulling the hand throttle, especially when the engine is cold. Totally normal. Once warm, you can usually click it in a couple of notches. If you pull the hand throttle and the engine is somewhat warmed up, at 900 rpm and constantly "hunting"/surging would suggest air in the fuel line. A bit of surging when cold is also normal.

I watched your video and the surging there is definitely not normal. Does it do that when you try to run it at let's say 900 rpm or is that with the hand throttle completely in?

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I don't think it would idle at 900 rpm, cattlerepairman. I had the throttle pulled out about an inch, it's a little scary how responsive the engine is when using the hand throttle, it sounds like it is going to run away and I have to constantly push it in and out to hold it close to running. I also use the pedal to keep it from stalling , it actually seemed to run a little more evenly while it was cold, kind of strange. Maybe I can make a better video showing what is really happening. I'm going to try to figure out how to get any air out first though. Maybe the air that is supposed to be going to the horn is going to the fuel tank. Thanks.