Tom's Overdrive kit

no not even close, way to big. and the 3053 is already .78 in 5th. all of them, no matter what year or suffix letter.

so I guess a brownie box is the next option. I saw its bean done and worked well. I'm not all that concerned with articulation. There really isn't much call for off road in my life.

Just not sure what one to start looking for. Suggestions?

WoodyUSMC said:

so I guess a brownie box is the next option. I saw its bean done and worked well. I'm not all that concerned with articulation. There really isn't much call for off road in my life.

Just not sure what one to start looking for. Suggestions?

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Spicer 6000 series if you can find a good one. There are three speed and four speed units out there.

m-35tom said:

no not even close, way to big. and the 3053 is already .78 in 5th. all of them, no matter what year or suffix letter.

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Hey Tom.
I still cannot find a vender that sells the "loose cylindrical bearings" that fit into the main input gear. Who did you use ?
Also do you have any modified main shafts left ? I still need two for my projects.
Thanks Tom.

rustystud said:

Spicer 6000 series if you can find a good one. There are three speed and four speed units out there.

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Spicer 6041? or is there a better option? Google isn't being much help haha. My goal is to be able to run as much as 75 mph and not risk blowing the motor. I may be looking at an LDS instead of the dt466.

Good options from Spicer would be 6231B and 7231B. From Eaton / Fuller look for the 3-A-65. The Letter in the Eaton is the ratio so there will be more than just the A out there. Both of these are 3 speeds that give you under drive, direct and over drive. These will all add about 2 feet to your drive line so keep us posted on how it all works out, I think this is a good option for some.

mann650 said:

Good options from Spicer would be 6231B and 7231B. From Eaton / Fuller look for the 3-A-65. The Letter in the Eaton is the ratio so there will be more than just the A out there. Both of these are 3 speeds that give you under drive, direct and over drive. These will all add about 2 feet to your drive line so keep us posted on how it all works out, I think this is a good option for some.

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I've seen several installations of a three speed overdrive in a deuce. Non will allow the front axle to be engaged, but as long as you remember that, I feel this is a good way to go.

So did they put the box after the transfer case or just replace the t-case all together?

rustystud said:

I've seen several installations of a three speed overdrive in a deuce. Non will allow the front axle to be engaged, but as long as you remember that, I feel this is a good way to go.

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I thought if you put it behind the T-case that you could still use the front wheels?

every transmission regardless of what it does must be in front of the transfer case. that is why my OD kit was such a good idea, but no one wanted them so they are gone. it made the trans better while keeping all the stock ratios except 5th which actually became more like another gear than an OD. get a group together and raise $50,000 and I will make some more. need 25 people.

Tom, I agree with all of that, which is why I wonder why these three trucks went with a mounting that eliminated the front?

m-35tom said:

every transmission regardless of what it does must be in front of the transfer case. that is why my OD kit was such a good idea, but no one wanted them so they are gone. it made the trans better while keeping all the stock ratios except 5th which actually became more like another gear than an OD. get a group together and raise $50,000 and I will make some more. need 25 people.

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Actually Tom that's not true. You can put the "Brownie Box" after the transfer-case as long as you realize you cannot use the front axle in any overdrive gear. I've seen several people who have done it quite successfully including several here at Steel Soldiers. If you utilize the transfer-cases air shift with a lock out solenoid then you wouldn't even have to think about it. Also the driveline still works fine being cut back several feet. No need to go to extreme U-joints. Since the driveline "plain" is very level due to the Rockwell axle having such a high input.

rustystud said:

...................Also the driveline still works fine being cut back several feet....

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Really - how many? The propeller shaft from TC to 1st rear axle is only 4 ft long, C-C between caps, fully extended.

.....Since the driveline "plain" is very level due to the Rockwell axle having such a high input.

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Almost - yes... when parked at the Walmart...

Don't forget rear axle articulation on a stock M35...

I know people have done it, but I wouldn't like that short of a driveshaft on my truck. The link below, the guy says his works fine, but look at the driveshaft, I don't see how it can manage with any kind of movement. But he says it works, so I don't know.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...euce-restored-with-a-7041-spicer-aux-gear-box

gringeltaube said:

Really - how many? The propeller shaft from TC to 1st rear axle is only 4 ft long, C-C between caps, fully extended.

Almost - yes... when parked at the Walmart...

Don't forget rear axle articulation on a stock M35...

View attachment 744105

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Really Gerhard you need to research this. There are extra long splined drivelines that will compensate for any articulation. Just look at what the boys are doing over at "Pirates 4X4" sometime.
Also the Rockwell input is not moving all that radically compared to the outer wheels. It is staying pretty much in the center where it is suppose to. It is only moving up and down about 4" to 5" max from center plain. That's a 8" to 10" movement. Now if you "need" actual numbers I can get out there and jack-up my truck and measure it. Considering you "always" seem to find some fault in my statements lately.

Never known G to come up with some ''EXCUSE'' about anything. Myself he has always help with numbers, info and great mechanical drawings without any attitude. Fortune cookie say man never let ego turn him into gashole.

Rusty Stud re: Gringeltaube; ..."Considering you "always" seem to come up with some excuse about something or other"

Dang, Rusty... you kinda went full-on Rosanne Barr with that comment. Seems I remember you yourself posting about a high blood pressure or heart meds imbalance you had been having awhile back... Maybe time to grab a Snickers, make sure your meds are in-check, and reaccess. Gotta agree with James here... In working on my truck I've looked over tons of old and new posts, and I've never seen Gerhard being anything but extraordinarily knowledgable and helpful. I wish you the very best. - MN

Menaces Nemesis said:

Rusty Stud re: Gringeltaube; ..."Considering you "always" seem to come up with some excuse about something or other"

Dang, Rusty... you kinda went full-on Rosanne Barr with that comment. Seems I remember you yourself posting about a high blood pressure or heart meds imbalance you had been having awhile back... Maybe time to grab a Snickers, make sure your meds are in-check, and reaccess. Gotta agree with James here... In working on my truck I've looked over tons of old and new posts, and I've never seen Gerhard being anything but extraordinarily knowledgable and helpful. I wish you the very best. - MN

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Really ?!?!? Were going down that road are we ?
Well if you knew what you where talking about you would see that my numbers are correct. Just for grins and giggles, why don't you go out and measure your "rear" driveline. That's the one between the axles. You know the one that takes the "most" articulation. You will find it is only 27" long. The total articulation of a "stock" deuce is only between 8" to 10" "total" at center line. Not really moving all that much. If they did the military would have had to install "double cardan" joints in them. You can look up "double cardan" joints on Google if you don't know what those are.
I've also up loaded some pictures for you if you find reading difficult.



In the "same" spirit you wished me, I also wish "you" the every best.

Floridianson said:

Never known G to come up with some ''EXCUSE'' about anything. Myself he has always help with numbers, info and great mechanical drawings without any attitude. Fortune cookie say man never let ego turn him into gashole.

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I never said anything about Gerhards drawings. What I am saying is he has been a little testy towards me lately (just take into consideration all the comments he has made on my posts lately) . I told him to research this and I mean that. There has been tremendous advancements in driveline articulation and suspension design in the last 10 years. I would know this as that was my primary focus at work for those last 10 years. Yes, I was a Master Mechanic for 40 years so I worked on this stuff everyday. Is Gerhard a mechanic ? No. Does that mean he is stupid ? No. It just means his specialty is somewhere else. I know this really gets under your skin every time I bring it up, but it is the truth. Oh by the way, you can tell me to go to Alaska now.

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