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Thread: M135 Engine Power Issue

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    Tech M135 Engine Power Issue

    I have a 1952 M135, while coming home from a event, we were on the highway an traveling about 45 MPH. All of a sudden it was like we lost power and could bearly get 30MPH. We got it home and figures we had a clogged fuel filter. We have 2 fuel filters on it one is an inline clear type with paper filter in it and after that we have another micro filter in it. Both filter were changed, no change in the power loss. Then we thought maybe the fuel pump was going bad and we had an extra so we changed that, no change in power loss. Truck idles smooth and starts right up. Anybody got any ideas what it could be?

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    4 Star General m1010plowboy's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard the crazy train. An Early Deuce can drive a guy nuts. Congrats on getting her home from a show.

    There is "typically" a small screen filter in the carb inlet. That screen can get plugged up. Do you have one?

    Do you have an internal fuel pump? If you do and you had a spare ......you must be lucky, rich or a brilliant hoarder. If it's an add on external pump let's start talking about how many GPM it's delivering and if it's in that 2-5 PSI range.

    Possibly..... Reduced power can actually be a 'drag' on the drive-train. Any hot or warm hubs?
    Are the brakes releasing?

    When the air-pak begins to go south....or air sneaks in through the MC as a result of low brake fluid, odd 'friction' events can begin.

    6 wheels in the air and starting the trouble shooting from the ground up may find troubles beyond the symptoms.

    I've had points split at the hold down mount and give reduced power, air paks not releasing brakes, sticking emergency brake release and a loose plug wire all give a symptom of reduced power so let's start at the bottom.

    Fuel has been a problem north of the 49th and I just dumped 15 gallons of contaminated juice out of my M135 yeasterday. Make sure it's not a fuel symptom or the famous $10,000.00 leaf floating around inside your fuel tank.

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    4 Star General NDT's Avatar
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    Mine did that once, it was the condenser.

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    X2 on the hoarding..i would check points for gap, buning and oxidation. New condenser. Then go at the harder stuff. While youre at it with the ignition, clean and grease your engine to chassis grounds. Its good PM.

    Good luck..let us know what you find.

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    Will Check the for the screen at the carb, I am assuming it is where the fuel line comes in.

    Yes we have an internal fuel pump and we got a bunch of parts with the duece when we bought it and there was a brand new one in the bunch.

    No warm hubs and all brakes seem to be releasing, we just rebuilt the air pack as it was leaking fluid.

    We pulled the distributor apart the other day points did not look bad, neither did cap or rotor but we are going to replace them just need to order another set. Any suggestion who who to order from?

    Fuel tank is clean and we cleaned it out when we put the new fuel pump in.

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    Mine had something wrong with the Huey Duey, you know part # AM in the figure. Also ended up replacing RR. The resistor ohm-ed out exactly the same as the old one. The truck would start but step on the gas and it would die like a fuel issue. Was maddening. This distributor has more crap, I mean parts in it then any ignition system I've messed with. I got these ignition parts from Memphis equip but I've heard tom wolmbolt has a bunch too. Not sure who else but many distributor have stuff if you ask them. They don't always list it on the sites
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    Hi

    If you pull the distributor for any reason don't forget to check that the gear on the shaft is tight to the shaft. I've had gears on 40s vintage Chevy trucks (Canadian Military Pattern) work loose and then break the pin. Latest similar lose of power and hard starting on any of my CMPs was corrosion on the points.

    Keep us posted on what you find, love a good detective mystery.

    Cheers Phil

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    ok here is the lastest. We have replaced a fuel line from the fuel filter to the carb, replace the plugs, points, condensor, Dist Cap and Rotor. At this point no change, still no power. We are thinking that the carb has a bad accelorator pump. And are going to rebuild the card. Anyone else have any other ideas?

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    Check your valves and your timing make sure something hasn't gone out of whack. Also with the 302 check to see if you have a exhaust manifold leak. On the 302 it's not a matter of if you will have one but when.

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    Walk us through the symptoms in more detail.

    You say it starts up and idles. Can you get a full range of RPM when it's sitting there?

    Does the motor sound strong through all ranges of RPM when the truck is parked?

    An engine that isn't producing power while under load but runs fine just sounds tired. If it's not "drive train" related then it's time to pull 6 plugs and check compression. Checking compression before and after you set the valves is a groovy experiment.

    Our latest M135 Gander, had 2 plug wires backwards with similar symptoms so sometimes the fix is simple and sometimes it's a journey. Keep jabbing that dog like you're doing, we'll get it.

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