Who has backyard rebuilt an LDT?

I think I am to the point of swapping motors and will most likely get a working used motor to drop in but I want to rebuild the take out and then eventually drop it back in. What I am concerned about is the logistics of it. The LDT will not hang on a conventional motor stand...looking for some insight on what you may have done. Must be able to get to top and bottom of motor so is my only real option a big commerical sized stand? Any surprises in the rebuild? I have rebult Chevy big blocks but not one of these.

They aren't bad if you have no damage to the crank you can do it in the truck. You will need special tools to torque the heads.

Set it on the bellhousing for bottom end work, then set on wood blocks to assy top end.

I rebuilt an LDS standing on its bell housing in the back of a utility trailer (prevented me from having to crawl around on the ground). I used cargo straps to secure it and lower it down for dealing with the deck and heads.

cattlerepairman said:

I rebuilt an LDS standing on its bell housing in the back of a utility trailer (prevented me from having to crawl around on the ground). I used cargo straps to secure it and lower it down for dealing with the deck and heads.

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That is what i was thinking, having it on my 16' trailer. I used to have to plasti-gauge the bearings, etc. All that needed for these engines?

fpchief said:

That is what i was thinking, having it on my 16' trailer. I used to have to plasti-gauge the bearings, etc. All that needed for these engines?

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You always need to check the crank and rod journals on every engine. Even if it's a new crank. Especially if it's a new crank !
Bearings are supposed to be held to certain tolerances but mistakes happen. Also mis-packaging of bearings happens. It has happened to me several times. I needed a .020 over bearing kit and one was standard. If I had not checked all the bearings that would have caused that one bearing to seize and gall the crap out of the crankshaft.
There is "never" shortcuts in rebuilding a quality engine. Never.
At the transit agency it would take "trained" mechanics a week to rebuild an engine. Then it was Dyno tested. Same with all the automatic transmissions.

If you are in there anyway I would not even bother plasti-gaging the bearings. I did mine and what did I learn? That I ought to put new ones in. So - put new ones in and be done. Rod and crankshaft bearings. If yours still has the hex head rod bolts replace with 12-point (upgraded; stronger).

cattlerepairman said:

If you are in there anyway I would not even bother plasti-gaging the bearings. I did mine and what did I learn? That I ought to put new ones in. So - put new ones in and be done. Rod and crankshaft bearings. If yours still has the hex head rod bolts replace with 12-point (upgraded; stronger).

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No you missed the point. You need to check "All" new bearings. Like I mentioned about the mis-packaged bearing, you never know what will happen. So check everything.

Yes...blue-eyed, bushy-tailed me believed the label on the box that advertised ".20 oversized bearings"...I did not re-measure. I get your point and see the risk.

cattlerepairman said:

Yes...blue-eyed, bushy-tailed me believed the label on the box that advertised ".20 oversized bearings"...I did not re-measure. I get your point and see the risk.

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Sadly that happens more then you think ! Mislabeled bearings can really ruin your day !