pre-purchase inspection

going to look at an FLU-419 this weekend. I have no experience with these machines, what would be your inspection checklist prior to purchase? I know a lot of you guys bought at auction so didn't have this option, but I'm buying from a private party so I still have the chance to walk away if there is anything TOO messed up with it.

thanks

Hydraulic lines are the biggest thing. They have more lines than you have major arteries in your body. Especially on the rear bucket. I have seen countless ones with the lines in the lower knuckle area just go to puking.

Checking for forklift damage is another thing, Unfortunately these trucks were mostly loaded with a forklift out of RRAD as only a handful of them actually ran.

Tires will be dry rotted more than likely. the Michelin XLs are all like that.

They tend to me pretty tough little boogers. Engines do not have too many issues and run fairly easy.

thanks Simp. This one has been used around someone's homestead for the past year and apparently has good tires. The seller said there are some leaks on the front bucket cylinders and it loses a little brake fluid. The brakes and hydrualics all work as long as they fill up the reservoirs. I don't think either of those would be that serious of an issue...

anything to check on the engines? when the army rebuilt these things trucks, did they completely rebuild the engines or just do some inspection and tune up?

Rodent damage on the electrical harness is a major issue and difficult to inspect. The rodents nested behind the dash and and its hidden by air ducts. The best hint is all the gauges are working and the electric circuits like the directional indicators are working. The SEE will start and run with this damage but its PITA to fix.

Check the differential locks. They are supposed to be drained and lubricated as routine maintenance but most of the miltary SEEs have the drain plugs painted over and the manuals dont mention that they need to be drained and lubed. Its quite noticeable when steering with the locks engaged. If you dont feel the difference in steering when engaging the differential locks they most likely are seized. They can be fixed but the entire axle needs to be disassembled. The parts are cheap but its reportedly 8 to 16 hour project and involved heavy lifting.

Make sure the air splitter on the transmission works its an indication that the air system isnt crapped up with rust. Take a magnet and check the air line that runs from the air pressure regulator mounted on the right frame rail to the air tanks on the left frame rail. If it magnetic its likely full of rust and that has carried over to the air system. If its non magnetic it was upgraded to stainless and it less likley your air system is crapped up. Also check the alcohol bottle reservoir. The top of it sticks up through the rear deck and folks would step on it and smash the top. If smashed it will be full of dirt and if the alcohol system valve is open it introduces dirt into the air system.

Put the SEE in 4WD and watch the air pressure gauge. The SEEs have axle pressurization systems that put low pressure air in the axles to keep water out, if the pressure on the gauge is dropping while in 4WD you will need to chase leaks.

Definitely look at the exhaust system. The muffler is a low point and can collect water. The muffler also gets crushed.

Spin the fan on the hydraulic cooling fans with a stick, if they do not spin freely they are most likely toast. The fix is $600 new surplus hydraulic cooling unit or retrofitting in a different 24 volt unit.

If you really want to do a thorough inspection, the Operators Manual which can be downloaded for free from multiple sources and has a very detailed inspection routine.

Crawl underneath and take a look at the tie rod and drag links, they cant be lubricated and the boots are usually rotted off so all you can do is grab onto them and see if they are tight. This is another several hundred dollar repair as some ends are not replaceable. (If you havent figured it out Mog parts are not cheap).

The prior comment about hydraulic hoses is pretty key. Many of the units need total hose replacement as the hoses are dry rotted from sunlight. Seals are available for the cylinders but those who have tried to change them have had quite a struggle

The engine is a crap shot. The military reportedly reset the hour meters when the engines were rebuilt or sometimes when they were repaired. You just need to see how it runs and check the oil pressure. There are several horror stories out there of crated US military major components like engines and transmissions that were repainted but never rebuilt.

Brake leaks can be easy or hard. If the brake booster has corrosion and needs replacement its very expensive. Calipers can be rebuilt if they are leaking. Brake lines are steel and can rot out. Brake hoses are available and not cheap.

A major item with mogs are the portal axles. They need to be filled with the right lubricant and they dont hold much. If there is a leak, the internal bearings can fail and it is a very expensive fix.

Generally a SEE that has been reconditioned by RRAD is going to be better than one that hasnt but the biggest issue with most of them is they sat for years and the new owners are not diligent in changing out all the fluids or using the wrong fluids. The gearbox requires an odd lubricant rated to an older standard called GL4 if the newer rated stuff is used the synchros are on their way out.

wow, thank you for that detailed write-up

You may want to ask yourself how much has to work, and what you don't really need.

For example, if I have working temp and oil pressure gauges, that's enough for me. Work lights front and rear can be nice, and if the wipers work. That the cooling fans work is a near must for my usage.

Hydraulic leaks I can tolerate to some extent. I don't really need air pressure. Brakes aren't essential to me, but I do want it to start and run reliably.

So, once I have the starting and running parts taken care of, I can fix the rest at my leisure. By taking it one issue at a time it doesn't become overwhelming, and I can (for the most part) use the machine in the meantime.
I do prioritize lubrication by the way, even though I don't drive on the road and rarely get out of First gear, low range.

I spoke with the state DMV office about being able to title and register this FLU419 in Nebraska and they said its not going to happen unless the vehicle has a DOT and EPA sticker already. I've been pushing on the seller really hard to go get the title using their SF97 from 1 year ago but now i'm wondering if it even matters...

I would use the lack of paperwork as a potential bargaining chip, but don't understand why you'd want a SEE registered.
Put a triangle on it (if you happen to end up on a public road) and be done with it.

i just have a hard time buying something w/o a title, seems like it limits me if i ever do want to register it or if i want to sell it down the road to someone that wants to register it. I would think the more sales between the original auction and current owner, the hard it gets to get the title straightened out so it would be best to take care of it while it still has a chance.

Long ago in the main SEE thread there was an individual who went through a lot of frustration when he bought a HMMH variant from a dealer in Colorado. After much cussing and complaining I think he returned it. Its still listed for sale on the dealer website.

I didn't get a title on my SEE and do not need one in NH as its over 25 years old. Good luck on getting a title. I just don't know if the military auctions actually ever issue one.

I have a spare VIN plate and title from a FLU419 that I parted out. Getting a title can be difficult and expensive, so I figured someone may be interested in these.
In PA, the SMV triangle cannot be displayed if the vehicle is driven faster than 25 mph. If I wanted to drive 25, I would have gotten a regular backhoe.
In spite of that, I tried running one and I have found that putting an SMV symbol on my FLU makes people think they must pass right away, at places that are unsafe for me and them. A couple weeks ago one hit my loader as I was turning left. So I removed the SMV.

I have always run legal PA tags and commercial insurance. When the car hit me, the police didn’t hassle me. So I say, if you are on the road, be clearly legal and sleep soundly.

Speedwoble said:

I have a spare VIN plate and title from a FLU419 that I parted out. Getting a title can be difficult and expensive, so I figured someone may be interested in these.
In PA, the SMV triangle cannot be displayed if the vehicle is driven faster than 25 mph. If I wanted to drive 25, I would have gotten a regular backhoe.
In spite of that, I tried running one and I have found that putting an SMV symbol on my FLU makes people think they must pass right away, at places that are unsafe for me and them. A couple weeks ago one hit my loader as I was turning left. So I removed the SMV.

I have always run legal PA tags and commercial insurance. When the car hit me, the police didn’t hassle me. So I say, if you are on the road, be clearly legal and sleep soundly.

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how i felt when everyone keeps telling me to just put an orange triangle on it and not worry about it. I have 20 acres that I live on and my father-in-law has several hundred that he ranches. I planned to share the SEE between our places, so it would do 25 mile trips regularly. I can do the entire drive on gravel but at times it would be nice to take the pavement.

Speedwoble said:

In PA, the SMV triangle cannot be displayed if the vehicle is driven faster than 25 mph. If I wanted to drive 25, I would have gotten a regular backhoe.
A couple weeks ago one hit my loader as I was turning left. So I removed the SMV.

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At one point I thought about adding a triangle, but then thought "Why?" Not that I drive on public roads much, and no cop here would really care if I drove 10 or 50 mph with it on. Just like they don't care that I drive without one.

But I think that for those that want to be legal, or close to it, the triangle is the easy way out.

I hope your bucket didn't get hurt, by the way.

Just need an HMEE and haul 55 or 60 !

Speedwoble said:

I have a spare VIN plate and title from a FLU419 that I parted out. Getting a title can be difficult and expensive, so I figured someone may be interested in these.
In PA, the SMV triangle cannot be displayed if the vehicle is driven faster than 25 mph. If I wanted to drive 25, I would have gotten a regular backhoe.
In spite of that, I tried running one and I have found that putting an SMV symbol on my FLU makes people think they must pass right away, at places that are unsafe for me and them. A couple weeks ago one hit my loader as I was turning left. So I removed the SMV.

I have always run legal PA tags and commercial insurance. When the car hit me, the police didn’t hassle me. So I say, if you are on the road, be clearly legal and sleep soundly.

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The feds really frown on altering V.I.N. numbers .

No alteration required. They are stamped on it already. Still have the frame with it.

Speedwoble said:

No alteration required. They are stamped on it already. Still have the frame with it.

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Probably a lot less work to get the title straightened out than change everything over to a different frame.

porkysplace said:

Probably a lot less work to get the title straightened out than change everything over to a different frame.

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I agree with you that the VIN transfers with the major component that has the VIN stamped on it. If all the components are transferred over from one vehicle to the major component of the other vehicle that has the VIN number stamped on it, then it follows the VIN stamping. Kinda like the upper receiver on an AR?

The only place the FLU419 VIN is stamped is on the data plate attached to the back of the cab. On the other Mogs it is stamped on the frame, but not on the FLU419. On all 3 of mine this was true.

The FLU farm said:

I hope your bucket didn't get hurt, by the way.

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Bucket had a paint scuff on it. Their car had a gouge peeling it open all along the Right side. Luckily no one hurt.

Speedwoble said:

The only place the FLU419 VIN is stamped is on the data plate attached to the back of the cab. On the other Mogs it is stamped on the frame, but not on the FLU419. On all 3 of mine this was true.

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Isn't there a Freighliner VIN, which is on a plate in the cab, and a different Unimog VIN that's stamped on the frame?