MEP-015a Carburetor help

I need some help. My brain is in a fog from working 14 hour shifts for the last 3 weeks.
I have been working on tuning up a MEP-015a. I got the transducer and voltage regulator issues resolved. My remaining issue is the carb. I thought it a good idea to take it off and give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner. Well maybe I didn't get the best results. The adjustment screw on the bowl is looser then I would like and although I don't see anything obstructing the float shutoff the bowl fills with fuel to the top and leaks down the air intake. Is there an adjustment I'm missing? Should I give a good soak in carb cleaner? Any suggestions on what cleaner to use? What about a diagram of the carb assembly?
Again thanks. Long hours and me don't work so well. Although I have another unit that works like a dream in would like to get this one ready and use it this hunting season.

I don't have experience with the 015a, but these problems are universal with small engines. First off, the screw you are talking about, I assume is the fuel mixture adjustment screw. There are several types of these, one where there is a spring under the head of the screw. I have stretched the spring out a little to keep the screw from moving too easily. The other looks like 2 nuts with a rod going through the center of them, the 2 nuts would be made of brass. The larger nut is usually 1/2 - 9/16 Inch and the smaller nut is usually 5/16 Inch, just tighten the 5/16 inch nut a little and that will make the screw turn a little harder.

As far as the fuel leakage, there are several possibilities. Make sure the float is not bent or deformed in any way that would cause it to bind on the fuel bowl to cause the float valve not to close all the way. Most likely it could be varnish build-up on the float valve (or needle & seat some people call it). I will clean the seat with a Q-tip soaked in spray type carb cleaner, that will get down in the seat and clean it very well. Lacquer thinner or acetone also work very well. Do not use brake cleaner or mineral spirits as those will not work. You might have to do that several times to get it cleaned depending how bad it is. Also clean the tip of the needle valve with carb cleaner. This would be because of varnish build-up from the gasoline. Also it should have a filter or sediment bowl with a screen between the fuel tank and carb. Make sure those are clean. Also check the fuel tank for rust. Any rust can get through the filter or sediment bowl and case a leak in the float valve. If none of this works, it most likely needs a new float valve. The float valves usually fit several different makes and models of engines. Go to a small engine repair shop and they could very well have a float valve that would work. Hopefully get a parts person that has been doing that for a while that could look at your old one and come up with one that will work. I would prefer one with a viton or rubber tipped needle valve as they are more forgiving than the all metal needle valve. Also it would be a good idea to replace the fuel line between the filter or sediment bowl and the carb or if it is metal to completely clean it out with carb cleaner, lacquer thinner or acetone.
If you shake the float and can hear liquid inside, you will need another float, which could be more challenging to find.
There is also a float adjustment that is usually listed in the repair manual. Have you downloaded the manuals for this generator? If you can not find the measurement, I have found that with the float valve and the float installed held upside down, the top of the float, which is closest to the carb and the carb body is parallel, usually works.

these carbs were considered a "toss" item. (it's the same carb as the MEP-016a/c) as it was used on all of the 1A08 / 2A016 and 4A032 engines. Most of the floatsd are foam and can be coated with model airplane dope or RedKote, to help seal them against swelling from the modern gas.

i have a couple of these i use regularly. the float on the carb is made from foam and alcohol will swell the float and cause the symptoms you describe,so don't use any additive that contains alcohol and make sure you don't use any gasohol fuel and you will be fine. there was a cross over tollitson brass float that will work but they are unobtanium. should be able to find a new old stock carb pretty cheap.

This website is your friend for any of your small engines.

https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=MI

i have a little device i use for my aviation gas that checks for alcohol. i think i purchased it from "Aircraft Spruce"

mdlbldrmatt135 said:

these carbs were considered a "toss" item. (it's the same carb as the MEP-016a/c) as it was used on all of the 1A08 / 2A016 and 4A032 engines. Most of the floatsd are foam and can be coated with model airplane dope or RedKote, to help seal them against swelling from the modern gas.

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Not so. The repair kit for this carb was readily available. Soldiers considered he carb a pluck and chuck item. This carb fits a bout 10 different pieces of equipment. And not just gen sets. I agree that they can be fixed, with airplane dope and such. The first thing I did with one, that would not stop leaking, was take it apart and clean it with carb cleaner. That alone fixed 98% of the problems.

Well got to working on it. Cleaned it up really nice. Put a small Oring in the lock nut so it clinches down on the adjustment screw. Other wise it was literally spinning itself out. The old cork washer is still in there but it doesn't do as nice a job.
So (lol) I have a new problem. I can turn the adjustment screw until the needle seats and the engine will keep running. In fact turning it 1 full turn out makes it run rich. The only thing I can think of is there is fuel leaking past the cork seal that sits in the middle and seals the upper and lower part of the carb.
Do they sell seal kits?

Max Bladwin said:

Well got to working on it. Cleaned it up really nice. Put a small Oring in the lock nut so it clinches down on the adjustment screw. Other wise it was literally spinning itself out. The old cork washer is still in there but it doesn't do as nice a job.
So (lol) I have a new problem. I can turn the adjustment screw until the needle seats and the engine will keep running. In fact turning it 1 full turn out makes it run rich. The only thing I can think of is there is fuel leaking past the cork seal that sits in the middle and seals the upper and lower part of the carb.
Do they sell seal kits?

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I bought a NOS carb off the big auction site and it does the same thing. Turning it makes no difference

you should check your air cleaner and intake for restrictions not allowing the carb to control vacuum. try running without the aircleaner and make sure that little lever on the aircleaner itself is operational.

Max Bladwin said:

Well got to working on it. Cleaned it up really nice. Put a small Oring in the lock nut so it clinches down on the adjustment screw. Other wise it was literally spinning itself out. The old cork washer is still in there but it doesn't do as nice a job.
So (lol) I have a new problem. I can turn the adjustment screw until the needle seats and the engine will keep running. In fact turning it 1 full turn out makes it run rich. The only thing I can think of is there is fuel leaking past the cork seal that sits in the middle and seals the upper and lower part of the carb.
Do they sell seal kits?

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Search "1a08 kit" on that fleabay auction site. there's a kit that claims to work with the carbs.

I haven't bought one yet...

Max Bladwin said:

Well got to working on it. Cleaned it up really nice. Put a small Oring in the lock nut so it clinches down on the adjustment screw. Other wise it was literally spinning itself out. The old cork washer is still in there but it doesn't do as nice a job.
So (lol) I have a new problem. I can turn the adjustment screw until the needle seats and the engine will keep running. In fact turning it 1 full turn out makes it run rich. The only thing I can think of is there is fuel leaking past the cork seal that sits in the middle and seals the upper and lower part of the carb.
Do they sell seal kits?

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Who is "they". The government bought rebuild kits, like I mentioned before. But please remember, most people in the forum were not even born when these sets went out of service. The surplus company's that buy up the surplus goods may have kits. Or there maybe company's that make kits now. But finding these things is tough, due to age. If it were me, I would sit down and start making a list of places that just might be able to help you.

1. Want add in SS Forum.
2. Want addin Haystack Forum.
3. Want add in ultra light magazines.
4. Want add in Experamental Aircraft magazines.
5. Want add in Swamp Craft/Air Boat magazines.
6. Call/email all the big surplus Company's.

7. Go over, read and take notes of every thread concerning the MEP-015A, (1.5 KW), the gasser 3KW engines, the air crompressor threads that about the air compressors that use this carberater, and there are several different types. If I think hard, there have to be a handful of other equipment that has this carberater on it. THEN, I would start all over just the engine manual TM numbers.

If if you sit down and think about it, you should come up with some other places to look.

mdlbldrmatt135 said:

Search "1a08 kit" on that fleabay auction site. there's a kit that claims to work with the carbs.

I haven't bought one yet...

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I asked and it doesn't have the carb kit included.

i think on some of these the needle valve has a rubber tip. sometimes you can salvage the tip off of another kit. other than that and the foam float just a cood cleaning should make it run perfect. there are some who tale a brass float from another kit and re solder it to the arm off of the foam float.

I have purchased a few NOS carbs, Saturn Surplus, who i believe is no more, did have them until a year or so ago. ive rebuilt a few, had some success, some failure, best deal i ever found was a spare in the records box of a parts unit i bought . Guy fang knows his stuff ! they were used in many different applications, a few guys on the swamp racer and powered parachute sites have listed carbs they adapted, BUT they neglect to mention they arnt using the governor function, they are strictly Throttle lever angle applications, I still get curious and research for a new production model , Smok Stack , site had a few listed about a year ago , welder use, basicly the same carb If any ones knows a good electroninc "plug and play" replace your points source for an onan twin , HOLLER

Jericho said:

I have purchased a few NOS carbs, Saturn Surplus, who i believe is no more, did have them until a year or so ago. ive rebuilt a few, had some success, some failure, best deal i ever found was a spare in the records box of a parts unit i bought . Guy fang knows his stuff ! they were used in many different applications, a few guys on the swamp racer and powered parachute sites have listed carbs they adapted, BUT they neglect to mention they arnt using the governor function, they are strictly Throttle lever angle applications, I still get curious and research for a new production model , Smok Stack , site had a few listed about a year ago , welder use, basicly the same carb If any ones knows a good electroninc "plug and play" replace your points source for an onan twin , HOLLER

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4 KFOZZ KFOZZ KFOZZ 97403 9786E70 BREAKER ASSEMBLY


Points: 2920-00-795-9587
Supplyer: L-3 COMMUNICATIONS CORPORATION



(PART OF KIT,P/N 13214E8180)
UOC:A,B,C
Parts kit: 2920-00-225-4841 or
2920-00-575-3504
Supplyer: L-3 COMMUNICATIONS CORPORATION or SATAIR A/S, Denmark

For the breaker less solid state ignition, NSN:2920-01-178-4979 Part number:13226E1700
I don't know who supplied it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tillotson-...inental-Motors-1A08-1A016-4A032-/202064055933

does this help

https://www.ebay.com/i/283025856394?chn=ps

i think this is a direct replacement

ZENITH FUEL SYSTEMS LLC also procured the carburetor

in the second link is a carburetor listed, in similar items.

Marvel Schebler NOS 9786E27 / 10 5057 2 Without ID tag that is the correct carburetor for these engines. Cost was 58 bucks.

If it was me, I might give ol Marvel Schebler a call, about repair parts or whole carb's

Guyfang said:

ZENITH FUEL SYSTEMS LLC also procured the carburetor

in the second link is a carburetor listed, in similar items.

Marvel Schebler NOS 9786E27 / 10 5057 2 Without ID tag that is the correct carburetor for these engines. Cost was 58 bucks.

If it was me, I might give ol Marvel Schebler a call, about repair parts or whole carb's

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I'm in contact with Mark at Marvel Schebler. I'll update when he replies.

Anyone have a pic of the carb tag handy? I'm out of town working.