Looking for a new idle air control valve

I'm searching for a new idle air control valve for my 6.2. Rock Auto and all the other local parts stores show the they are out of stock and can't be ordered. I found one on eBay but it's $150. Is that the going price on them? Any ideas where else I can find one? My idle issues have been diagnosed to that part being bad and I'm having trouble finding one. Any help is appreciated.

There is no idle air control valve on a 6.2 diesel.

It does have a vacuum control module to regulate how much vacuum the transmission vacuum module gets based on throttle position. It looks like a little black plastic thing on the passenger side of the Injection Pump with a pair of vacuum lines attached and no wires.

6.2 engines also have a Crankcase Depressurization Regulator valve which is kind of like a PCV valve and vent line combined but not really. It looks like a tuna can on the side of the intake.

Who diagnosed your idle issues? If air is getting through your air filter, then only cylinder compression and fuel injection system can be the cause.

The GM part number is 14066255. I suggest you do a search on the auction sites. Or as an alternative, you can post an ad in the SS Classifieds and obtain a used one from a fellow SS member.

Hope this helps.

nyoffroad said:

idle air control valve = high idle solenoid??​

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Amazon has one $142.00 part#14066255

Well who ever told you that is clueless... these trucks have no idle air control as said... the high idle is not going to cause a rough run unless it is quite cold and then it will only run rough for... in NC? 2min till it warms up as after that the high idle shuts off...

It is also adjustable however if someone called it an idle air please go somewhere else before spending money on any parts...

Raleighpatriot I understand your description. It was lost in translation but yes it will idle rough when cold with out the fast idle solenoid. Sort of hunting idle. Your guy is on track and maybe just at a loss for words on describing the part you need. But the price sounds right and you can replace that part in 10 minutes. But before going and spending that make sure the sending unit on the right / passengers side rear head area is hooked up and operational. That is where the signal comes from. I am at a loss for words as to correctly tell you how to check it but when cold you should have power to the green wire at the fast idle solenoid. A test light would be all you need to test that. I also had had some degree of success cleaning the high idle solenoid and lubing it. Not always but it has helped. Good Luck with your CUCV and enjoy.

OK. So a fast idle solenoid is what you need? I thought some shop was trying to take you for a long expensive ride by your first post.

Are you sure the solenoid is bad? They don't have the power to open the throttle by themselves. You have to push the throttle down to around half way and let go once the key is on and the coolant temp is below 94° to allow the sensor to send power down the green wired described above to the solenoid.

If with a cold engine, you are getting 12 volts at the solenoid on the green wire and nothing happens when you open the throttle. Make sure the plunger isn't seized somehow in the solenoid. If it is good. Peel back the rubber boot. You will see the super thin cooper wires going from the power plug and to the case for a ground. Very, very gently use a small screwdriver to push on them. The plug where the green wire goes isn't all that solidly mounted and moved most the time people get within a few feet of it causing the wire to the coil to break. I have had several with this problem. I just solder them back together and all is well.

I guess an Ohm meter between the plug blade and the case would be a more exact way of testing for an open circuit, but if you can't see it to fix it. Knowing the circuit is open doesn't really help all that much in my opinion. That is why I suggest the screwdriver push test.

ACDELCO still makes the High Idle Solenoid.
Mine was marked “Made in USA”.

Epay has one NOS about $106.00 with shipping part#14066255

Maybe I need to give more information on my situation. I bought this truck a couple years ago and had no engine issues till now. It's an 85 k10 with a 6.2 swapped in. It started out as a 350 gas. I bought it several years after the swap was completed. Being a swap I don't have all the standard plug controllers etc. I have switches on the dash for the plugs and idle. I have to flip the idle switch to high to start it and flip it to low after a couple of minutes. Currently it starts fine but when I flip it to low it shuts off 50% of the time. When it does not stop running after flipping it to low, it will die if I jump off the gas pedal too fast. If I ease off the gas pedal it almost dies but will keep run and return to normal idle. My friend came out, messed with it for an hour and decided it was high idle solenoid. I was calling it the idle air control valve cause that's what it was listed under on Rock Auto. Based on this description is his diagnosis correct?

Raleighpatriot said:

Maybe I need to give more information on my situation. I bought this truck a couple years ago and had no engine issues till now. It's an 85 k10 with a 6.2 swapped in. It started out as a 350 gas. I bought it several years after the swap was completed. Being a swap I don't have all the standard plug controllers etc. I have switches on the dash for the plugs and idle. I have to flip the idle switch to high to start it and flip it to low after a couple of minutes. Currently it starts fine but when I flip it to low it shuts off 50% of the time. When it does not stop running after flipping it to low, it will die if I jump off the gas pedal too fast. If I ease off the gas pedal it almost dies but will keep run and return to normal idle. My friend came out, messed with it for an hour and decided it was high idle solenoid. I was calling it the idle air control valve cause that's what it was listed under on Rock Auto. Based on this description is his diagnosis correct?

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Is it hard to start when the engine is cold even when using the GP? Reason I ask is it kinda sounds like a weak fuel lift pump, that provides fuel to the IP at pressure. The IP does suck some fuel and if in good shape an engine could run on just the IP or so I've heard. Or it could be as simple as turning the idle speed up. Hope its the cheap/easy fix!

No it starts and runs fine while it's in high idle. The problem only shows up once the switch is changed to low idle

Raleighpatriot said:

Maybe I need to give more information on my situation. I bought this truck a couple years ago and had no engine issues till now. It's an 85 k10 with a 6.2 swapped in. It started out as a 350 gas. I bought it several years after the swap was completed. Being a swap I don't have all the standard plug controllers etc. I have switches on the dash for the plugs and idle. I have to flip the idle switch to high to start it and flip it to low after a couple of minutes. Currently it starts fine but when I flip it to low it shuts off 50% of the time. When it does not stop running after flipping it to low, it will die if I jump off the gas pedal too fast. If I ease off the gas pedal it almost dies but will keep run and return to normal idle. My friend came out, messed with it for an hour and decided it was high idle solenoid. I was calling it the idle air control valve cause that's what it was listed under on Rock Auto. Based on this description is his diagnosis correct?

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Ok let me get this straight - you have a civilian K5 blazer. The vehicle originally came from GM with the standard gas engine but somebody in the past swapped in a 6.2 diesel and Jerry-rigged switches for glow plugs and high idle.

Respectfully, I believe you should post your questions over on K5.com or one of the other forums for civilian vehicles. Steel Soldiers is for military vehicles and, in my opinion, should not be a clearinghouse for all things mechanical on civilian vehicles. You joined a few days ago and have posted 3 times. I hope the administrators will delete this whole thread to circumvent wasting any more time of members.

Just my 2 cents.

you have a Frankenstein. you need a witch doctor.

my best advice is to get a 6.2 engine wiring harness and replace the hacked up mess you have. also there is difference in civy 6.2 and cucv 6.2 with 2 alts so figure out if you need civy harness or cucv harness and rewire the truck.