Hydraulic lock after filter change?

I installed the spin on primary today and finished putting the OEM secondary filters back together. With fuel cable in the stop position I let the pump run to fill up and bleed the secondaries, maybe two minutes. When I cranked the engine to check for hydraulic lock it turned just a little and stopped, I wasn't sure if had let the starter button off a little and pushed it again and it turned over fine. Then I started the truck and it sounded good but the secondary filters were pouring fuel out, and I really mean pouring, like a waterfall down the side of the engine.

So after shutting the engine off, I pulled out the stop again and turned on the fuel switch to check the leak for maybe 30 seconds. They were barely leaking compared to when the engine was running. I decided to turn it over again with the fuel off and the engine made a squish sound and stopped. I hit the button again and it turned fine. Any idea what's going on ? Could it get hydraulic lock that fast? Is there such a thing as slightly hydro locked? Do you think I hurt anything? I'm giving up on canisters and ordering the spin on secondary filters. Why are they leaking more when the truck is running?

Note, I had also changed the oil but had not started the truck yet ,could oil reaching the filters or the crank hitting the oil cause a slow down of the engine when turning it over? Thank you.

After the primary filter, fuel goes through a mechanical booster pump ("BP"), located on the left side of the injection pump, directly below the fuel shutoff cover. The truck will run solely on said BP, even if the in-tank pump isn't functioning at all. That's why the trucks will start up and run off if they're parked in gear and bumped, even without the master switch on. I'm thinking the volume you're seeing when the truck is running is a product of the BP, and maybe your in-tank pump ain't working too good. As far as the squishy, herky-jerky, starting weirdness, maybe that's a bad starter circuit contact (remember, you need to always mash the button down to ensure good contact in the switch). Might be a real good idea to pull the injectors and take a peak with an inspection camera to check for anything in the cylinders before trying to start again (but I'd be surprised if you found anything).

Your in-tank fuel pump only puts out "8 to 12PSI " . A good pump will normally run at 10 PSI. The boost pump puts out at minimum 30 PSI at idle and over 60 PSI at 2000 RPM and above. That's why your fuel canisters are leaking so much when running. I don't think you have a bad in-tank fuel pump. Your starting problem could be the rely contacts are dirty and corroded.

Seems like coolant would be the number one hydro locker. You running the in tank pump to clear the air should not be a problem. Yea you did something wrong when you changed the secondary and final fuel filters. Did you use new correct gaskets or at least flip the old one over? Some correct filters come with the wrong gasket and they don't fit quit right. Good thing at least you are checking for hydro lock every time before you start and don't forget to leave the engine shut down cable pulled out when the truck is not in use.

Floridianson said:

Seems like coolant would be the number one hydro locker. You running the in tank pump to clear the air should not be a problem. Yea you did something wrong when you changed the secondary and final fuel filters. Did you use new correct gaskets or at least flip the old one over? Some correct filters come with the wrong gasket and they don't fit quit right. Good thing at least you are checking for hydro lock every time before you start and don't forget to leave the engine shut down cable pulled out when the truck is not in use.

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I had to stretch the new gaskets to get them on, they looked a little buckled after they were in place so that may be what happened, I'll look at it closer today. The shutdown cable was creeping back in after being pulled out, so I can't be sure it was really off but I read where I wasn't turning the handle correctly to lock it in place. I didn't realize you could do that, it seems to be a common mistake. I may put a new cable on it too.

Yea the correct gaskets go in with one finger and no stretching. I forget the correct NAPA number but you have to order them alone or buy filter with correct gasket. If you have trouble ordering the correct or finding them PM me and I believe I have extra and will ship them to you free.

I googled NAPA #5070 and if I remember that is the correct gasket but it did not show up. Maybe call NAPA and see if it is still a good listing for just the correct gasket. it's good to have extra.
Don't worry about the mistake people have been trying to using the wrong gasket and trying to make it work for years. Correct gasket no problem. I found what I think are two of the correct gaskets in the shop if you want to try them. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?29515-Fuel-Filter-Gaskets/page3

If you had a fuel issue in cylinder at start there would be a knocking sound that goes away, kinda sounds like a marble in a can, and heavy white/grey smoke that eventually goes away as well as lots of slobber out the exhaust manifold joints

Floridianson said:

I googled NAPA #5070 and if I remember that is the correct gasket but it did not show up. Maybe call NAPA and see if it is still a good listing for just the correct gasket. it's good to have extra.
Don't worry about the mistake people have been trying to using the wrong gasket and trying to make it work for years. Correct gasket no problem. I found what I think are two of the correct gaskets in the shop if you want to try them. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?29515-Fuel-Filter-Gaskets/page3

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Thanks for the offer, but I was able to get the leaks stopped by tightening up the filters. It sounds dumb I guess but I was putting them back on with a large 1/2" drive ratchet and was afraid of over tightening them, so today I used a small crescent and could feel they were actually too lose. The good news is while putting the spin on primary on I found the horn had a wire off and it works now. But apparently the temp gauge doesn't.

russojap said:

Thanks for the offer, but I was able to get the leaks stopped by tightening up the filters. It sounds dumb I guess but I was putting them back on with a large 1/2" drive ratchet and was afraid of over tightening them, so today I used a small crescent and could feel they were actually too lose. The good news is while putting the spin on primary on I found the horn had a wire off and it works now. But apparently the temp gauge doesn't.

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Two steps forward, one step back. That's how it goes with this old iron.

rustystud said:

Two steps forward, one step back. That's how it goes with this old iron.

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Now that I think about it I don't believe it has ever worked since I've had the truck. Today though I noticed it wasn't moving over any, so I tapped on it and it immediately pegged out on hot.

Edit: Does anybody know if that sounds like the gauge the sensor or something else?