Internet diagnostics

What I would do is get some engine de greaser than go to the magic wand car wash and clean every thing up. after it dries off you should be able to run it a short time to find the leak. With the cab down and the fan blowing the velocity of the air moving over the engine will blow oil every place. the leak appears at the front of the engine look long and hard at the steel line feeding oil to the governor.

snowtrac nome said:

What I would do is get some engine de greaser than go to the magic wand car wash and clean every thing up. after it dries off you should be able to run it a short time to find the leak. With the cab down and the fan blowing the velocity of the air moving over the engine will blow oil every place. the leak appears at the front of the engine look long and hard at the steel line feeding oil to the governor.

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Did you look at the video?

cant see videos for some reason

Hate to be a party pooper but next thing to check are the driveshaft slip joints for ANY movement up/down. Vibration from there is what shakes this all loose at highway speeds. Have him check the alternator for loose bolts as well.

check below threads.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?179844-Cracked!-Something-else-to-check-on-your-FMTV


https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...g-water-pumps-and-loosing-alternator-brackets

they are long but insightful to your issues.

also there is another thread I've not time to find yet, about a tube.... possible turbo drain tube??? I don't recall exactly that a fellow had crack that this could be as well.

NDT said:

Hate to be a party pooper but next thing to check are the driveshaft slip joints for ANY movement up/down. Vibration from there is what shakes this all loose at highway speeds. Have him check the alternator for loose bolts as well.

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thx I will pass on the info

So the truck arrived today. and I guess you can tell what's up from the two pictures i attached

Timing cover cracked.

Andyrv6av8r said:

Timing cover cracked.

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Now about fixing it... any suggestions?

3 options:
Stop drill each end and JB Weld.
Remove and get it welded.
Remove and replace.

Stop drill a hole in this sounds kind of counter intuitive . But I guess it needs to be done

How about this product?
https://youtu.be/Dm3ecG_kJzc

It sounds like a proper way to a lasting repair

319cssb said:

Stop drill a hole in this sounds kind of counter intuitive . But I guess it needs to be done

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While you got your timing cover off be good to make sure you have the upgraded locking nut on the air compressor. The old style has a tendency of coming off.


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Man of few words

M1081 LVAD

What is the upgraded locking nut? I'll buy it just in case. Once I go the timing cover off , I would want to replace it right then , if it's the old style.
I think I'll give this product a try on the crack
https://youtu.be/J8yfCDvXFds

A lot of this info (e.g. cracked front housings, loose air compressor brackets, drive shaft vibrations, etc.) is in my troubleshooting doc in my signature.

The nut he's referring to is the one on the front of the gear of the air compressor. With the front cover off it is accessible. The original has come loose on people before, and Cat now recommends the locking nut. You just replace the original with a locking nut (and I'd probably put Loctite on it too). I'm not sure what size it is (it's big, like 1"), but if you find out, please report back and I'll write it down for future people.

319cssb said:

What is the upgraded locking nut? I'll buy it just in case. Once I go the timing cover off , I would want to replace it right then , if it's the old style.
I think I'll give this product a try on the crack
https://youtu.be/J8yfCDvXFds

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Just remember that you're dealing with thin aluminum, not steel. The most important thing is replacing or tightening ALL of the loose bolts on the compressor/mount and case before anything gets repaired.