MEP002 starts and runs fine but on restart fail to start again until I wait an hour

hi all, The last two times I started the MEP002 to check and charge the batteries it will not restart until I wait an hour or two. Then it starts and runs fine again. Upon trying to restart immediately after shutdown I hear a loud clunk noise near the front right side of the set (looking from control panel). I notice a component (item 3 called high temp. cut-out switch on Figure 3-17 of the manual, that appears near the location of the clunk. Any ideas about what is going on? thanks in advance. this site has been very helpful in the past.

Michael, Carlisle, PA

So you are saying that when you are initially able to start it (stone cold) or (either warm after an hour or so from shutdown), it will run as long as you want it to? But it will not restart after it has been run up to operating temperature? I think that clunk you are hearing from right side may be the stop solenoid disengaging. The safety circuit monitors oil pressure and temperature, if a problem in either it will shut down or not allow a restart. What is your oil pressure reading after running for a while? I would check out both oil pressure and temperature circuit. Also, when you attempt a restart are you keeping the starter engaged until after the oil pressure comes up on the gauge past 30 psi?

Here is a similar thread and suggestions for checking:https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?181872-002a-Runs-Great-then-Dies

thank you Chainbreaker. I do hold the start switch fully on, but the engine does not turn over at all, just that loud clunk. I will proceed to check the safety circuits and check for cooling air restrictions abd oil pressure.

This is from the thread Chainbreaker sent you. Start the set. Turn it off. Try again. When it wont start, follow the instructions below. Dont wait a while, just do it. If it starts then, its one of the safety that are in the safety chain, normally bypassed on start up.

Jump from TB5-7, to TB5-9, run it for what ever time it normally ran before shutting down. If it shuts down again, its not a safety. If it runs without stopping, then jump each switch in the chain, one at a time, until you find the one that is not working. Troubleshoot Partner.

And yes, the clunk you hear is the fuel cutoff solenoid.

Hi again, I found a small bit of mouse nest in the box that contains the fuel shut off solinoid and cleaned it out and also blew out the engine fins from both sides with compressed air. I again started it and ran it for about 30 minutes with no issues, then when I imediately tried to restart it again would not turn engine over, just the click from the fuel shutoff solenoid (confirmed this by wayching the rod to the fuel pump move during the loud click). I then jumped TB5-7 to TB5-9 and tried to start again but it made no difference. Still won't turn the engine, just the loud click, The oil pressure is 40psi and the lovers opened about an inch with plenty of warm air blowing out the lovers while running. Outside temperature is 79 degrees. I'm stumped.

This is off the cuff so take it for what it’s worth but your starter solenoid may be heating up and no engaging your starter. When cool it is ok but once got it may not activate.

I would try to manually jump the starter solenoid to rule out that problem.


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OK, so its not even turning over the starter when you attempt a restart? If so, that clunk you hear is probably the starter solenoid engaging/disengaging...however that is on left side as you face control panel but the noise may sound like its coming elsewhere. What are your battery voltages? Although, not sure why waiting an hour would cure a low battery issue. Sounds like some sort of intermittent connection when unit is hot or starter solenoid acting up when hot if it's not engaging starter when restart attempted just after shutdown and still hot.

OK, with you guys (Dock and Chain) input I am looking at the starter. I can't get a jumper wire onto the positive starter solenoid terminal or positive starter terminal, too tight in there. So while in the no start mode (not cooled down enough yet) I measured the DC voltage on what appears to be the input lead to the starter from the solenoid. It is a very short lead from the bottom of the solenoid to the top of the starter. I get NO voltage on this lead when the start-run switch is turned to the start position. I also can not feel the starter solenoid click. I do get 24 volts between the pos. and neg. terminals of the two 12 volt batteries in series. I will again measure the voltage at this solenoid lead once the engine cooled down enough to start again.

A side question, when in the start mode it appears that the clunk is the fuel pump solenoid pushing the rod up. Is this normal operation to allow fuel to the injectors on start-up and run?

After cool down of about a hour the unit restarted normally and I measured 24 volts from the solenoid to the starter and felt the solenoild kick in. So somehow the starter solenoid is not being activated after running for 30 minutes or so and will not work again until the unit cools down. Still stumped.

Gents, could we have a problem with S7, ( starter lockout)? Try jumping it when the set wil not start.

I think Guy has correctly narrowed it down to S7 if you read this thread. In particular Post #3.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70561-MEP-003A-Starter-Lockout-Switch

Chainbreaker said:

I think Guy has correctly narrowed it down to S7 if you read this thread. In particular Post #3.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70561-MEP-003A-Starter-Lockout-Switch

Click to expand...

Thank you Chain, I will focus my effort on the starter lockout switch and start with the adjustment procedure.
Michael

Start the set. Stop the set. Try and start it. If it won't start, disconnect J15. Use a paper clip to jump between pins A&B. If it starts, THEN inspect/adjust S7.

Subscribed for later use, good t/shooting fellas.

I don't mean to interfere with Guy's diagnosing procedure, but occasionally, rarely, my starter solenoid doesn't return fully, and the next time I try to start the engine, it won't pull in and crank. Usually a couple tries and it works OK. If not, a tap with a hammer on the exposed solenoid lever fixes it.

I've had the starter off to diagnose this, and of course it works fine when I do that.

That's also a possibility. Also seen it happen that all we had to do is loosen the starter solinoid and retighten it up, and the starter worked better. Never know. Could also be the relay. One thing at a time.