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Prepping Deuce for paint

russojap

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Hey guys I have to switch gears from mechanical to paint because of the weather. I intend to scrape off the loose peeling paint and then feather the edges in the best I can with an electric DA then put some rust oleum primer on the places. For the majority of areas where the CARC is still stuck I'm not sure what to do, I might rough it up a little, but it seems like it's rough enough for good adhesion as is. What can I do about hard to reach areas like hinges door handles, especially wheel lug nuts and things? I have used the black flex disc thing with a drill on the hood hinges with good success, but they are relatively flat. I've heard the rust converter won't hold paint. I am going to use the Behr latex for the job also. Thanks!

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SETOYOTA

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All of that in pic 3 needs to come off. You can try a pressure washer to knock the loose paint off. Also one of those air needle guns or mini sand blaster.
 

russojap

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All of that in pic 3 needs to come off. You can try a pressure washer to knock the loose paint off. Also one of those air needle guns or mini sand blaster.
Ok, thanks. I forgot I was going to try the small needle gun at harbor freight, but a mini sandblaster sounds like a great idea for the hard to reach things like axle bolts and hinges etc. Thank you!

Here's one for $20 , Perfect!
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98G

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Ok, thanks. I forgot I was going to try the small needle gun at harbor freight, but a mini sandblaster sounds like a great idea for the hard to reach things like axle bolts and hinges etc. Thank you!

Here's one for $20 , Perfect!
View attachment 744706
I've used that one with success. Make sure you wear adequate respiratory protection as silicosis is no joke....
 

Flyingvan911

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Ditto. CARC contains heavy metals so wear a respirator for it too. For rusty areas I would try to get it down to clean metal then apply OSPHO. It helps to neutralize the rust. For the CARC itself I would just clean it with a degreaser and rinse it off. Paint when dry. Many of us like Rapco paint and 20% Zylene sprayed through a cheap ($10) Harbor Freight spray gun. I found the Rapco will soak into the CARC so you may want to spray those areas a couple of times 15 minutes or so apart. That’s all for the green. For the black and brown I used Rapco rattle cans when the green had dried. When you are done it looks nice and any slight imperfections will look military issue.
 
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clinto

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I know everyone acts like CARC is pure death-cancer-lava-AIDS, but you guys know any urethane paint is supposed to be handled (sanded, sprayed, etc.) with proper safety gear (at a minimum an approved respirator, gloves and long sleeves; preferably a full suit with fresh air supply)?

Even a simple paint like Gillespie should be treated the same way.
 
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russojap

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When I first got the truck I sanded/ground off a few small places and was wearing the N95 particle mask, probably wasn't adequate.
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Last night I found a nice respirator mask at Lowe's a little nicer than this one with an exhaust valve.So will use it for everything involved.
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I know a lot of you use the airless sprayer with the Behr paint but I don't want to spend $160. What about this $20 HF electric sprayer? It seems like it would be easier to use with a cord than an air line also. One drawback is it looks like it would have to be refilled often.

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98G

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When I first got the truck I sanded/ground off a few small places and was wearing the N95 particle mask, probably wasn't adequate.
View attachment 744780
View attachment 744781

Last night I found a nice respirator mask at Lowe's a little nicer than this one with an exhaust valve.So will use it for everything involved.
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I know a lot of you use the airless sprayer with the Behr paint but I don't want to spend $160. What about this $20 HF electric sprayer? It seems like it would be easier to use with a cord than an air line also. One drawback is it looks like it would have to be refilled often.

View attachment 744779
I've used that sprayer also, painting a buddy's deuce. Works just fine.

N95 masks are what we use for staff protection treating active tuberculosis patients. Properly fit, it should be adequate for any kind of particulate.
 

Karl kostman

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When I prepped my Deuce I removed as much as I could including the bed so I could get behind the cab and the the frame rails and under pinnings if you can get the litttle things sanded by hand then put them back in the truck prior to painting thats fine but ANY LOOSE or looks to possibly let loose paint needs to be sanded OFF and feather the edges to blend. I sanded every thing on the truck with my DA and 120 grit CARC makes a very good base for new paint to adhere but it must be roughed up. Any paint that has questions to you needs to be removed and the metal underneath cleaned up and primed prior to paint!!
Karl
 

russojap

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Knoxville TN
Let me ask you guys this , they have several different types of blasting media, since I'm doing this in the yard/ driveway I don't want anything too hazardous. They have big bags of baking soda, glass beads and black aluminum oxide. The glass sounds extremely hazardous, which is safer that will work? They also have walnut shells but as has been mentioned it stops the gun up. Thanks.

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russojap

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Knoxville TN
Sorry for a dumb question.... but what is a “DA”?
Sorry, what I should have said is orbital. I was referring to dual action, and they do have a polisher listed that way and I believe it's another way to say orbital, but orbital is more common, I think. Technically I probably should have said RO for random orbital, but I don't think I've ever heard that.

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98G

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Media - I used just garden variety playground sand. This is NOT a recommended practice as the risk of silicosis is much higher, and it also doesn't cut nearly as well as the purpose built abrasive agents. But it matched what was already on the ground, was cheap, and readily available.
 

russojap

Member
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Location
Knoxville TN
Media - I used just garden variety playground sand. This is NOT a recommended practice as the risk of silicosis is much higher, and it also doesn't cut nearly as well as the purpose built abrasive agents. But it matched what was already on the ground, was cheap, and readily available.
Ok thanks, I'm going to try this coal from Rural King. It's only $6.99 for 50 lbs. MUCH cheaper than anything at harbor freight.

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russojap

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Knoxville TN
Ok so here is a quick update. The coal slag does seem to work removing rust but isn't very good at removing paint. But my compressor is also only a 25gal. one with a regulator or whatever the part that kicks it on not working correctly. Also I can only operate the gun a few seconds before water starts spraying out ,so will have to add an inline filter I guess.
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After
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If the water had not stopped the gun up and I had adequate pressure I'm sure these places would have cleaned up a lot better.
​Edit: If anybody wants to try the coal slag they may have it at tractor supply also. They do online anyhow.

Decided to take the advice on a pressure washer and got this one at HF for $80. I'm a little skeptical about how well it will work with only 1750 psi. so may have to rent one from Home Depot if it doesn't work out.

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russojap

Member
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Location
Knoxville TN
This is going incredibly slower than I had envisioned, I'm on vacation all week and thought could have it ready to paint by the weekend, but I've barely done anything.

Let me ask you this...how does this look compared to when you guys prep a tuck for painting? I'm going to have to concentrate on one area of the truck at a time to get anything done.

Also, how hazardous is the CARC dust getting in the yard?

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I was surprised to see this truck looks like it may have been tan.

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Here's the left springs without pressure washing and the right side after pressure washing, not perfect but not bad.

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