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Fuel storage, 55 gal drum, vent adapter, moisture trap, drieriete

NormB

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Thinking about venting for 55 gal storage drums (what I’ve got), and came across this page.

Drierite is interesting stuff, absorbs moisture faster than silica gel (which I use in my gun safes), and can also be reactivated:

https://secure.drierite.com/catalog3/page19b.cfm

[h=2]https://secure.drierite.com/catalog3/page19b.cfm[/h][FONT=DDG_ProximaNova]“Regular and Indicating DRIERITE For the regeneration of Indicating DRIERITE and small lots of Regular DRIERITE , the granules may be spread in layers one granule deep and heated for 1 hour at 210° C or 425° F.”[/FONT]

“Honey, what’s in the oven?”

So I thought this might be interesting, helpful for anyone who has, has had, or wants to avoid moisture/condensation/water in their fuel stores.

Like me. Now to figure out how to do it with as little expense/time/effort as possible (sometimes a difficult equation to solve).

https://secure.drierite.com/catalog3/page11.cfm

67F8F09E-AA65-4BED-8B4C-8F4206A6F734.jpg
 

csheath

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I just used an air compressor filter on mine. My pickup tube leaves 5 gallons in the bottom of the drum so I suck that out with a small pump and check for water after I use the rest of the drum. So far I haven't found any.

The simplest way if you are concerned about condensation is to just buy a Goldenrod Water-Block filter. You can use 3/4" black pipe or PVC fittings to fit it to the vent hole in your drum.
 
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Chainbreaker

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Similar to what Zed254 referenced I use this type of breather. I installed a shutoff valve between canister and my Aux tank so I can close it when not in use which extends the life of the desiccant.

20181014_170150249_iOS.jpg
 

NormB

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Cloverly,MD
I just used an air compressor filter on mine. My pickup tube leaves 5 gallons in the bottom of the drum so I suck that out with a small pump and check for water after I use the rest of the drum. So far I haven't found any.
The simplest way if you are concerned about condensation is to just buy a Goldenrod Water-Block filter. You can use 3/4" black pipe or PVC fittings to fit it to the vent hole in your drum.


Already have that filter ready to go, more interested in keeping moisture OUT so it never has the chance to condense and rust out the drum in the first place.
 

Bmxenbrett

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How much do those desicant filter setups cost?

A golden rod filter can get the water out but water is what the algee thrives on that will clog your filters. I still run a golden rod on my transfer pump.
 

csheath

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I was thinking you could use the Goldenrod on the vent side instead of or also on the fuel side.

Nothing beats a good additive regimen. I use Killum biocide and Stanadyne lubricity formula. Coming up on cold weather I throw in some anti gel and cetane booster.
 

NormB

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How much do those desicant filter setups cost?A golden rod filter can get the water out but water is what the algee thrives on that will clog your filters. I still run a golden rod on my transfer pump.

Price is the real question here. 2 pounds of indicating drierite runs around $25. The fittings - from Drierite co. I linked to - add up to about $80.

Trying to figure out how to pick up parts at a bigbox hardware store, use some 3” PVC I already have and make end caps, insert some screen/muslin or cheesecloth in either end to hold in the drierite, put together some fittings to connect to the 3/4 NPS threaded bung hole.

EZPZ, right?

Time, being money (Fred Einstein - Albert’s younger, economics professor brother - proved that equation), sometimes it’s easier to just dive in and buy the ready-made product. Sometimes exercising skills, talent and a little improvisation yields more satisfying results. No, most of the time this happens. Most people don’t make money off hobbies (then they’re a business), but it’s smart to try and spend the least amount of money, which take more time out of your life earning more of it.

NB
 

DieselAddict

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You can pick up 2lbs of indicating silica gel on Amazon for under $20. That is enough to do several vent filters. Regen it in your oven or replace with new.

The home-brew PVC housing would be fine a low cost option. I have a couple new drums to get into the fuel storage system. Maybe I'll give that one a go.
 

DieselAddict

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I think they would work but you might find yourself recharging the desiccant more often than you would like.
 

DieselAddict

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You can DIY one a lot cheaper. The desiccant is pretty cheap. On the simplest side you can take pretty much any filter housing and fill it with desiccant then plumb it into your drum.

This is something that will last a long time. It will go a long way to protecting the fuel from moisture induced problems such as algae.
 

Light in the Dark

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Ive had some fuel put up in drums for 2 years now, fully stabilized with Power Service and some other additives which escape me at the moment at work. I utilize a pressure breather (https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...ty-drum-vent-for-petroleum-based-applications), but keep everything under tarps and in the shade. I am going to transfer the fuel around into other drums this fall, so I will see what kind of situation I am dealing with. I am hoping the fuel is a nice as when I put it in (I always double the recommended additive amounts for standing fuel).
 

Chainbreaker

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FYI - The breather I used was the Watchdog 39134 I seem to recall that it was under $50. Here's a link to the MFG's page with spec's etc.

https://www.tricocorp.com/product/watchdog-desiccant-breathers/

They also make a model that has an internal check valve only allowing .3 psi in / .3 psi out which according to their literature preserves the life of the desiccant:

https://www.tricocorp.com/product/watchdog-extreme-humidity-breathers/


Even if you decide to construct a "DIY breather" you can get some good ideas from their small diagrams (zoom up on them) of how their filters work... they illustrate internal air contaminant filter before the air inflow reaches the desiccant and charcoal filtration prior to air outflow. That would be pretty easy to incorporate in a DIY breather,
 

Guyfang

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You can DIY one a lot cheaper. The desiccant is pretty cheap. On the simplest side you can take pretty much any filter housing and fill it with desiccant then plumb it into your drum.

This is something that will last a long time. It will go a long way to protecting the fuel from moisture induced problems such as algae.

The Hawk Air Defence system used several desiccant "filters" that were more or less plastic, or plexiglass "jars" with threaded nipples on both ends. As the plastic is clear, you can see the desiccant granular product, when it changed color. One end was removable, with a seal/gasket on it. When we could not get a new one, we simply made new ones out of plastic sheets, 5-6 cm on a sided. Drilled and threaded holes for the nipples. The lid was held down by two clamps. I am sure you cold find something like that, or make one.
 
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