Swapped engine, wont start, HOT battery terminals

In the future when the fuel lines are dry try this This works best with a helper, a rag, compressor and blow gun. Remove the fuel cap and insert the blow gun into the filler neck and use the rag to seal it (you won't get a complete seal but don't worry) then pressurize the system a little, as air leaks past the rag just put some more in and have your helper open the bleed screw on the filter. Once you get a good strong stream of fuel there move to the IP. Easy peasy and no cranking and no worn out batteries or brunt up starters!

Took a lot of short trips but the truck is finaly running.
The lift pump was installed incorrectly. Took forever to get that push rod to stay up and get the pump in. Fit like a glove once it was in. Why on earth would anyone put something in such an awefull spot...
The check valve on the IP was clogged but the inside of the top of the IP was nice and clean. No gunk, just diesel.
I used air in the tank to bleed the system up the air filter then the IP, worked like a charm.
It took 3 tries to get all the air out. And get the valve clean.
After the first start and stop it required a good bit of throttle but after a few seconds it idled on its own. Idle isnt "perfect" but good.
Test drive went pretty good.
All in all i learned a great deal through all this. Cant beat first hand experience with two great guides and some trouble shooting to gain knowledge.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!
And an even bigger thanks to my girlfriends family for making the whole thing happen

Side note Gen 1 light stays dim. 12.2 v at the alternator while running. 14.4 at the passenger side. Pretty sure ill need a new one soon.

12.2 is not charging you need it fixed now.

It is only in a poor location on a cucv, go look at any gas chevy motor, the pump is wide open (same spot).