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Driver alternator belt tightening question

231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
Something I've noticed on my M1009 since I've owned it but never really figured out was whenever I get a belt for the drive alt (yes, with the correct part numbers found pinned here) it always requires me maxing out the tensions capabilities of the alternator bolt slot on the bracket, and it's still a tad loose. After only a couple/few weeks, the squealing comes right back after the belt breaks in. The power steering belt is alright tight, thus not permitting me to tighten that pulley any more. Is there something I'm missing?
 

Merddin

Member
91
-1
6
Location
Cape Girardeau, MO
The belt has either stretched from rubbing and heat while it was squeeling or it is too long.Get another belt gates or dayco from the local auto parts that fits a 6.2 for your year. Or have them cross reference the old belt . Install and tighten until strumming the belt give a higher tone. You should be good.
 
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ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
I've had that happen too. I found out that you have to get the smallest belt available and it will be really tough to install (but it does go on). When you adjust it for the first time, it will only move about 1/3 up in the adjustment slot. That will give you plenty of room for future adjustments. I also noticed that cheaper belts tend to stretch faster and a lot more than the better Goodyear or Dayco belts.
 

Matt5

Banned
214
3
0
Location
NY
I never use the part numbers pinned here did once and quickly learned not to.

Drivers alt is a 7570, it will be tight to get on (feel free to find a longer belt, a 7570 is 13/32 x 57-5/8) but will pretty much last forever at least in adjustment.
 

41cl8m5

Active member
254
30
28
Location
Littleton, CO
I had the same issue years ago. I found that the pulley on both alternators were polished smooth by the belts slipping for a long time, just replacing the belts solved the squeal I was getting but would come back about 3 to 4 weeks after. I agree on the belt sizing, there are different size alternator pulleys GM has for that frame so it can be very easy to not have the correct one for our application. If you put too much tension on the belt you will burn up the bearings in the alternator. I finally replaced both pulleys and no more squeal, my thinking was my truck had this issue while in service in the National Guard. I got it from GL doing this. It mostly was happening with the glow plug drawl on power until the voltage leveled back out to 24+. Battery condition also factors in, this I have first hand knowledge of.

Most CUCV's by this time in their life are running on rebuild alternators and rebuilders are looking at voltage and in our requirements, isolated ground. On the pulley part they just grab one for a v-belt. I remember getting one alternator and the pulley was so small I started laughing, the diameter I think was 1-1/2" , I did not think v-belt that size could be bent that tight.

The info here on SS is outstanding. That being said everyone also needs to keep in mind the info in TM's may have errors and do to real life situations with parts, not all the part lists are perfect for your application. Most of the vehicles and other equipment we talk about here is old, **** manufacturers have recalls on the new stuff that got out messed up, only you know exactly what your old iron needs. I use any list as a guide with my research to maintain or repair.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
It mostly was happening with the glow plug drawl on power until the voltage leveled back out to 24+.
This ! That is the only time my belts have squealed. It did it more in the winter than in the summer.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
9,601
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I said this many times. Take the truck to the parts store. Change the belts in the lot. Walk back and forth and get a belt that fits so tight you need to spin it on the pulley. It will last for years. And yes if you bypass the resistors on the fire wall the belt will squeal more because you are pulling all the glow plug voltage from the front batterie and the left alternator is doing all the work to replace the voltage that was used. But That's how it goes. Good Luck. Have a Great Day.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
I said this many times. Take the truck to the parts store. Change the belts in the lot. Walk back and forth and get a belt that fits so tight you need to spin it on the pulley. It will last for years.
Yup, I agree and that's great advice I did this a few weeks ago. The counter guy thought I was a bit crazy (hey, i was driving a camo painted truck, so that didn't help), but the manager said it was fine. Three belts later I got the one that did what I needed.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
I never use the part numbers pinned here did once and quickly learned not to.

Drivers alt is a 7570, it will be tight to get on (feel free to find a longer belt, a 7570 is 13/32 x 57-5/8) but will pretty much last forever at least in adjustment.
You are correct......I had incorrectly installed a Gates 7580 on my driver side alternator last year and of course it was now too long after a year.......I tried to get a Gates 7570 over the alternator pulley but could not do so by myself......so I installed a Gates 7575, which went on much easier, but will have only 1" or so adjustment left on the alternator bracket, so yes at some time in the future I will do battle again with the Gates 7570!

Separate question......I brushed and cleaned the positive wire connector bolting to the back of the alternator, and put it back on tighter than it had been.....but notice there is still a very small amount of wiggle, like the bolt/stud into the alternator case may not be totally tight.....I presume this should not be the case? This bolt/stud should be absolutely tight to the case? If not, how do you tighten it?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,274
9,601
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
At this point if it is tight and charging I would let it be. If it bothers you that much. I assume the case on the alternator will need split and the internal nut tightened. I don't rebuild alternators. I have had a few split to add hour meters but I let the electrical parts to an electrical shop. It seems to work out well for me that way. They do more then just replace a few parts. I watched the process. Good Luck and Happy Holidays.
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
Yep.......at present I get a faint glow from the Gen1 light when I turn the fan on high for the heater/defrost switch.......otherwise all is good.......prior to getting the closer to right size belt length, the Gen1 light would stay on more pronounced.
 

Matt5

Banned
214
3
0
Location
NY
You need to split the alt IIRC... google around and you should be able to find a vid or pics of a rebuild and then you can see the stud. I would not use anything that is lose on electrical your asking for issues down the line.

Your light should *never* come on, if it is you have a belt issue OR the lose stud could be your issue... I would not run with the light coming on I would fix it. I would google first, I am assuming that alt is a hard fix... I would then replace the belt (yep a 7570 is a royal PITA but... baby do they last) if the light is still on, order a rebuilt kit or get it rebuilt (to fix the lose stud).

(if it was really me I would fix the lose alt but $$$ could come into play so I gave you the cheaper method first to milk it some)
 
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
So I got my driver side alternator rebuilt for < $100....tech said loose connection inside and voltage regulator was bad......now works great, no Gen1 light on if all lights are on and heat/defrost fan running on high.

Also got my Gates 7570 belt on - used an ice pick to slide the very tight belt over the alternator pulley.

Yep, will get the driver side alternator re-built at the earliest convenience.....
 
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