New to me M51A2

Thanks Beast M. I've to more batteries at the house on the charger. Will try them tomorrow. Will try and get all batteries tested. They are getting some age on them.

Changed out batteries and the starter worked. Guess those batteries are getting weak. Thanks again Beast M.

After several attempts the motor started and kept running. I do have a fuel leak on one of the return lines, I need to replace it. I am going to go through and change out all the fluids and replace the broken exhaust and see what she will do.

Does the shaft coming from the transfer case to the winch control suppose to always spin?

I have drove the truck a couple of times at low speeds, with no problem. A good amount of smoke but that clears up some. But today I tried going a little fast might got up to 45 maybe and two separates times when I got started back from turning around and in 5th gear the truck started a terrible wheel hop. Slowed down to a crawl and it went away. Wheel hop so bad I thought I was going to hit my head.

Anyone have any ideas what could cause this.

It had been making the psss air noise when shift in 1 or reverse. Now it only does it in reverse.

After a little reading, this weekend I'll check the u-joints, air pressure and go from there. This website is great. I wonder if the no air sound when shifting to first is causing an issue. The Foresty guy said their was a transfer case issue, I have found it yet. Maybe part of the problem.

She has a lot of white smoke, but I hope it clears up.

Parts I am looking for: driver side fender panel, passenger side door handle, pto winch drive shaft, rear pintle and mount.
I would prefer to buy from a member than a vendor.

Looking at getting a oil spin kit from a member, before I change the oil. So soon. I've got two sets of fuel filters. I will try and use them before going to spin on. Cleaned the primer before driving the truck maybe 5 miles. Primary had a good amount of junk in the bottom of it again.

Anyone had an issue with the throttle return spring. It seems the bolt the spring the attached to is stripped. The bolt pulls out freely, if the spring was attached it would probably fall out. The issue is the spring does not have enough tension now to pull the throttle back all the way.

Anyone else have this issue or a fix?

I have not heard any talk about the brakes. You should go thru them 100% to insure everything is in tip-top shape. When in doubt, replace or rebuild.

bigmike said:

I have not heard any talk about the brakes. You should go thru them 100% to insure everything is in tip-top shape. When in doubt, replace or rebuild.

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What he said. Any of the older trucks with hydraulic brakes should be gone through and all soft lines replaced. Flush and bleed the entire system. Wheel cylinders should probably be replaced too. Don't work about spin on filters and other stuff like that until brakes are done.


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Thanks for the heads up guys. But I was following the forum's policy, if you can figure it out with the search function don't ask.

But for the ones who want to know. The master cylinder was low. I had to go to the rear cylinder to get fluid. I'll have to change the bleeder valves, just unscrewed from the drum. I tried mixing the fluid with DOT 3 and it separated. So DOT 5 was used to fill the master cylinder. Rear valve bleed again to get the air out. When I get the truck running a little better and before she goes out on the road, all of the cylinders will be drained and inspected. I have already checked most of the lines. They look good, no dry rot. Will inspect again after a pressure wash.

Mess around with the winch today or tried to. Bad boy seemed locked up. I will try and drain the fluid soon and get a driveshaft on it.

Ack! Don't mix brake fluids.

As to your earlier question, my reading (and brief experience with my own truck) indicates that you should be hearing air when you shift between reverse and 1st. The reason for this, is because it operates the "sprag" in the transfer case. These trucks are always in all-wheel drive, unlike the deuces where you can disengage the front axle with the transfer case switch. Also, (if I'm reading the archives and manuals correctly) do not allow the truck to drift backwards when not in reverse (such as when resting on a hill, waiting to move forward). Apparently, it puts tension on the sprag in the transfer case which can produce a loud bang and also cause damage.

This seems to jive with what the forestry guys were telling you, so you might want to check the air system connection to the transfer case and shift mechanism. If I'm out to lunch on this, hopefully someone will come along and correct me.

Spent most of the day working on the M51a2. Changed fuel filters to wix 33540. Changed oil filter and oil, using napa 1133 and 15w40 Supertech heavy duty with Lucas zinc additive. Did get what looks to be a ball from a bearing and a piece of metal from the drain plugs.



Also got two new batteries, 800 cca, installed. Turns her over fast. Still want to bleed brake lines.

One issue I need to figure out is the throttle return spring. The bolt it is mounted to is either stripped or it's stripped inside what it is mounted to. Not sure exactly what it goes in. Anyone have this issue?

Does anyone know the Allen wrench size for the plugs on the 5ton winch?

The drum lock and in out lever will not move. Turned the input on the winch and it sounded rough, then water started coming out. Plan to try and flush it a few times. Really don't want to have to pull the winch but it's not looking good.

As a truck like you have has two fuel tanks without a cross over line there are TWO electric fuel pumps. The engine runs of the left tank and there is a fused transfer pump there to pump the fuel to the engine when the electric switch is on. There is a second pump in the right tank to pump the fuel over to the left tank. Otherwise the 50 gallons in the right tank will not be accessible to the engine. This pump is controlled by a switch on the right side of the instrument panel. The problem on a long trip, as the right tank pump pushes the fuel across faster than the engine is burning it, is to start on the second tank after about 1/3 of the left tank is out and then run the pump until the right tank is empty. Hope both fuel gauges work. Same problem exists on the M 52A2 which shares the same fuel system. But don't let the left tank run dry before starting the pump. If that happens you will have to pump 5 gallons or so across from the right tank and then prime the fuel system.

You have to move up to a M123 or M911 to get a fuel cross over line and eliminate the transfer pump or, as in a M816, M817, or M 818 have a valve under the handbrake handle to switch from one tank to the next.

Also the dog clutch on the winch will be difficult to operate if there is any load on the dogs such as the cable being wound too tight. Try getting the winch to spool out (rearmost position on PTO lever) a little to get any tension off the cable. Obviously make sure the drum lock is released first. This thing needs frequent attention with an oil can or WD 40 lest it get stuck After free spooling the cable it may be necessary to "jiggle" the capstan incrementally to get the dogs to line up and engage. It should not be necessary to force the clutch with a cheater pipe to get it to engage. The dog clutch is there to allow free spooling of the cable. It is NOT used to start and stop the winch. The pto lever and the clutch pedal in the cab are for that.

The pictures in post 36 illustrate the dog clutch in the engaged and disengaged positions on a CCKW and a 3/4t Dodge where the dogs are exposed. These parts are concealed on a 2 1/2t or 5t Garwood winch.

Thanks Fasttruck.

I got the plugs out and all the water with a little bit of oil. Tried cleaning it out with kerosene and rotated the input shaft. Drained and put a few quarts of straight 30 oil. Going to leave that in there until I can get the drum lock to move. Any suggestions on moving the drum lock lever? Should I try and disassemble the lever?

Trying to also figure out what top I want/can find. Got a number for a company that makes the canvas top, haven't been able to find a vinyl top. Don't think I want a hard top.

Anyone with their own pros and cons. Thanks guys.

Reference the drum lock: Naturally it is stuck in the engaged position. Remove the handle and used the appropriate wrench to turn the lock's body out of the winch housing. Soak in WD40, brake fluid or what ever your potent for frozen stuff is until the plunger operates freely then reinstall. Luba it often especially if the truck is parked outside.