M1009 rear tailgate glass, they supposed to go all the way down?

I have no other trucks to compare to. My M1009 rear glass sticks up about 2 or 3 inches when fully down. That doesn't seem right, as it's too easily susceptible to damage when loading, sitting on the tailgate, etc. So something aint right with mine. I deem the regulator non original to the truck, could it be for a 79 or perhaps a burban? Looking inside, the regulator arms are too long and run out of track to allow it to roll completely or near completely down. The little window stop arm is not the culprit.

What do ya'lls windows do's?

It should go lower than that but it won't go all the way down. Probably less than 1/2" will stick up. Not the best design in my opinion.

Mine is probably 1/4 of an inch.

2-3" is not down far enough. They do stick up about 1/2" when down all the way. You have side guide issues or regulator. That rear glass system is an expensive item to replace and over haul. I have used a trim lock item to change the side guides and oil and grease go a long way on the sash ,tracks, regulator and crank. Take it apart clean everything really well. Grease and oil. No spray lubes. Replace what parts are bad and move on. I have some I rebuilt 15 years ago and never did anything but clean , lube and maintain them. The top of the gate is cracked get that welded up and reinforce/weld all the cracks to get a nice string gate again. I cut a strip of 16 gauge steel and stich weld it all the way along the top outer and inner edge. My terminus M1009 build has lots of pictures of a puss filled gate that I rebuilt and resurrected for a few dollars. Scrap steel and a mig welder. Been working for years of tough use. Good Luck. get that window fixed. Rear glass for old Blazers is getting hard to find. New is expensive.

I've had it torn apart before. Felts are all gone. But the tailgate itself is off a Civi K5 and is very solid and straight, I welded the top edges about 4 years ago. It works smoothly.

The regulator is my suspect right now. But it looks just like the photos on the net, and its supposed to be the same from 70s to 87 ish.

Maybe the glass is out of a Burban? Is suburban and blazer glass interchangeable?



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Blazer and Suburban rear glass are NOT the same. Neither are the gates. Completely different. Also there is a mechanical switch at the bottom of the gate that senses the glass being in the down position. That has a spring and is in a plastic clamp. That mechanical switch/lever can get very rusty and not go down and lock/stop the window. I suggest removing the window tracks and getting some window slides/guides ad replacing them and then double checking/lubing everything in the gate. They are antiquated and most are very rusty at this point. Like I said Trimlok makes a rubber edge seal that works perfect. I have used it on dozens of M1009 gates. Good Luck. Have a Great Day.

Well I tore into things this morning. There are absolutely no hang ups anywhere, the tracks despite no more felt material slide freely.

The issue is pictured, the rollers literally run out of track. They hit the threaded lugs on the removable track pieces that bolt to the window. These are called the "cam channels" by various vendors.

So I'm thinking my regulator is different, or those cam channels on the bottom of the glass aren't correct. I'm sure I have them installed correctly. It's as if they are an inch or two too short.....it's a real corker for sure...




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Possibly a Suburban regulator. The Suburban gate is a bit taller and that would make up for the down stroke of the glass. Not that I know as a fact. But the top/up height would be the same. The gears would have less teeth and the window would not go down as far. Just tinking from my GM days. 30 years ago. So not as clear. Simple see if suburban has the same regulator as blazer. Good Luck.

I think your gear/tooth count theory is correct. For giggles, I found the window rolls too far up by about 2 inches past where it should. What if I cut the regulator arms then lengthened them by say, and inch or 1.5 inches? Would that in theory give more down stroke? Wait...I think shortening, not lengthening would give the correct effect....hmmm need a coffee for this.

If it where mine I would just buy a new regulator for the K5 Blazer. A lot less work and a lot less hit and miss. Even a good used one if cleaned up and properly greased and oiled will last a lifetime if maintained. Good Luck.

Good partially related protip with the M1009/Blazer and probably Suburban tailgates since cucvrus mentioned cracks in an earlier post, the latches are designed to work far better than you would expect from an old Chevy truck. The cracks up top develop from people slamming the tailgates. Try closing the tailgate 20% as hard as you think you need to, you'll be pleasantly surprised and possibly a little shocked that GM actually made a good latch design in the 80s.

Evil Dr. Porkchop said:

It should go lower than that but it won't go all the way down. Probably less than 1/2" will stick up. Not the best design in my opinion.

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Sounds like you have it figured out but my 1986 rear window goes about 1/4 inch inside my tailgate. Not sure why others say it doesn't?