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New member and owner with questions to get 1043A2 started

Miscexpense

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Alabama
that being said if I happen to ask a repetitive question I want to apologize early. My goal is to jump in to this feet first and get it running again, then start playing around with many of the tweaks and upgrades you guys have been trying.


My starting questions/problems are:

1.) There is a part or pump missing on top of the fuel tank. The access panel is open in the cab and an open hole where part used to be. I need a little help to identify.
2.) Any other recommendations on batteries? I was planning on" Optima Red Top"
3.)the rest I can see on the surface is a headlight bezel, wiper arms, slant hatch struts, snorkel cap, and a few others. I'm sure I can find them on ebay, but figured there was a person on here that might be a little more help

Another recommendation I was looking for is for a good Parts and repair manual with diagrams.
56358376671__8C0E83A6-04F1-42F8-AA09-64638B9D852C.jpg743851_6002_0_0017.jpg
Thank you guys,

Alan
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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that being said if I happen to ask a repetitive question I want to apologize early. My goal is to jump in to this feet first and get it running again, then start playing around with many of the tweaks and upgrades you guys have been trying.


My starting questions/problems are:

1.) There is a part or pump missing on top of the fuel tank. The access panel is open in the cab and an open hole where part used to be. I need a little help to identify.
2.) Any other recommendations on batteries? I was planning on" Optima Red Top"
3.)the rest I can see on the surface is a headlight bezel, wiper arms, slant hatch struts, snorkel cap, and a few others. I'm sure I can find them on ebay, but figured there was a person on here that might be a little more help

Another recommendation I was looking for is for a good Parts and repair manual with diagrams.
View attachment 747880View attachment 747881
Thank you guys,

Alan
1) EDIT - looks like the fuel level sensor [fuel sending unit] was removed. Fuel level sensor Fuel sending unit.jpg
EDIT 86HUMMWV posted to a thread in 2017 that the part number is 12339199, and if you search for military and 12339199 on Fleabay you will find what you need. I just found 2 for sale, old and new style sending units.

2) I prefer Odyssey batteries, which I just learned are civilian solid state versions of military batteries. They are pricey. As far as Optima, I prefer Optima Yellow, but there was recently a battery thread that also spoke of military style replacement. Military style battery is $$$, and available at autozone IIRC. Greater than $200 apiece IIRC.

3) Some of the stuff you want is $$$. Retired War Horses in California seems to have a handle on restorations. There are also supply places in The Carolinas that people talk about. Slantback struts [I am told] are a hard to find item. I have a slantback so I guess I will need to source an alternative at some point.

Might I suggest holding off on trim items and ensuring she starts and runs. If not you will need to evaluate the powertrain first. Plenty of threads here regarding getting her running. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT BATTERIES PRIOR TO DOING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK. There is a finicky item called a PCB/Protective Control Box. Working on electrics before disconnecting battery will fry the PCB, and costing you 500-700 clams for a new one. Installing a PCB without disconnecting the battery will fry the PCB and cost you for another one.

Depending on the transmission, you might need a transmission control unit. Three speed units need no controller but 4 speed units require one of you're vehicle is refusing to shift. If your shifter has a "P" for park, you have a four speed. If you just have a "R" for reverse and no "P", you have a three speed. If she refuses to shift, she is in "limp mode" and you need to investigate the controller.

If I were you, I would purchase cheapo batteries at first to see if she will power glow plugs and then turn the engine over and start the engine up. If you're not familiar, you twist the switch to put vehicle in run mode and wait for the yellow light to turn on, then turn off. Once it turns off, the glow plugs have heated the cylinders and you can twist the switch to "start" and let the starter motor do her job. If she will not cycle the yellow light, glow plugs are suspect, or PCB is bad. If yellow light works but she will not turn over the engine, glow plugs or PCB or starter are suspect. If yellow light flashes, glow plugs might be suspect. (All assuming the yellow lightbulb is working and wiring is intact).

If parts are missing, make sure the radiator is full of fluid before you start, or you will create a paperweight. Since other parts are missing you should assume something or someone compromised the cooling system.
 
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BLK HMMWV

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From the picture your missing the fuel level sender / float.
I'm guessing the newer style was in your truck.

If it were me I'd drop the tank and inspect it for foreign matter. It has been open to the elements and may have water and other unwanted stuff in it.

The only parts and repair manual for your truck is called a TM ( Technical manual) There is a whole section related to them here on the board under Technical Manuals.
They are also available in DVD format and a hard paper copy from various people on the internet.
You need to study it. The more you understand it the better off you will be.

Read everything in the HMMWV sticky section.
You may find useful information there.

Change all the fluids in your truck.
Check both the air and fuel filters. I'd go ahead and order both now.
Inspect all the hubs and diff's.
Lube it.

After you have done all that.
Find some cheap batteries to begin with and see if it will start.
Make sure they are fully charged.

Go to the TM section regarding starting.

Pay attention to the yellow "Wait" light.
Color of smoke from exhaust.
You may have to bleed air out of
Fuel filter/ separator
IP
Injectors
Study up on that.
 
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NormB

Well-known member
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Location
Cloverly,MD
What they said, plus, what, nobody mentioned the ever-popular "Swellman" glow plugs?

Yes. DISCONNECT GROUND (seriously consider installing a keyed ground disconnect switch - details here somewhere) ANYTIME you work on electrics. I got lucky, mine ran, but blew a LOT of white smoke (unburned fuel), replaced my S3 (PCB) box 2 years ago, got it on sale for $475. Bought a "spare" a couple months ago (S3 - newer, bestest unit) for $400 delivered, but you'll most often see them for upwards of $700 now. A commonly replaced, easily destroyed vital piece of hardware.

GROUND everything. Instructions for a ground wire harness to bond engine, S3/PCB, frame, starter, battery are here somewhere.

Seriously consider pulling glowplugs once you're sure engine is running. I say do it AFTER because sometimes it's a real PITA to pull one or more of them as they swell, bend, get stuck, and as much as it's an exercise in good old-fashioned anglo-saxon and germanic linguistic gymnastics (i.e. - cursing) and more than a little skin and blood loss, there IS a tool for this if you run into problems and sometimes pieces break off which require pulling the injector at that cylinder to retrieve the broken piece(s) which I understand is GREAT fun (and more cursing), so best to see if the thing will run at all and how well it starts in cold weather before considering glow plugs. I did mine in that order. Glow plugs (tested, two were open circuit - dead), ran a little better afterward, THEN PCB. Glad I did, it was a chore getting the front left one out, broke the stud holding the generator to the cylinder head in the process. Bought the removal tool for insurance.

Batteries?

Not happy with Optimas, although I'm heavily invested in them. Bought yellow tops for my HMMWV, one died a year later, amazon refunded $$$, but price had gone up another $100. In for a penny, in for a pounding, I bought another.

THEN I got a pair for my MEP-802a. Recently discovered they'd both died despite being connected to a pulsetech solar charger, so I put the cheapo lawn tractor batteries back in and they're fine. The Optimas died after not running the genset for about 5 weeks. I charged them up on a 4A charger, kept 'em on trickle charge for about a week, tested them on a Snap-On carbon pile unit, both failed, one miserably, less than 9V left, other about 10. Friend (AOR here on the board) hooked 'em up to an Optima super-duper charger for a couple days, charger says they're fine, carbon pile tester agrees. I don't trust 'em, haven't advertised on fakebook marketplace yet. Figure some Honda drivers might want them for cheap.

Right now it's the RED tops military is using the their GENERATORS, and the VERY expensive 6TL batteries of one flavor or another for HMMWV, NOT Optimas. Some people have great luck with Optimas. One of the guys here on the board has had an 18+ year success with his and he lives in Alaska. Sadly, the case with many, many others is more typical of mine.

I've seen reports here about getting interstate battery equivalents (and other mfrs) for under $200 each, but I like having the extra space in the battery box with the smaller format batteries.

YMMV.

Oh, and buy the NEW style fuel level unit. While you've got the tank down, replace the braided hoses, the filler connector hose and cover gasket.

Have fun.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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NormB alludes to an interesting issue. A number of years ago Optima moved manufacture abroad. Quality suffered, and that is the reason I spoke about them not being my favorites. Odyssey is my favorite right now but they are pricey. They are small with huge cranking amps. They are solid state. NormB also alludes to the fact that smaller batteries allow for more space in the battery box. Currently I have military style units, and that extra space allows me to fit 2 - 12 Volt trickle chargers AND a 24 Volt starter/charger for emergencies.

I'm installing a NATO plug on my rig to allow trickle charging more easily without having to open the battery box.

That being said, I have military batteries in my rig. They came with the rig and were allowed to substantially, (but not totally), discharge due to my neglect. They charged right back up, no issues. Luck? Quality military style batteries? Not sure, but quality usually means less headache. Now she is registered and plated so she gets driven a bunch, so the batteries should stay charged. As extra insurance, I have begun to use 2 - 12 Volt trickle chargers to avoid any further battery issues. I decided to use 2 chargers so as not to confuse a 24 Volt trickle charger if one battery is weaker than the other. I also am awaiting my solar charger, also to help regulate battery charging so one does not undercharge while the other overcharges. I also rotated batteries so as to change which one sees current first, in an effort to equalize damage, much the same way one might rotate tires. I used to rotate the batteries in my Toyota Diesel every 3 months.

Finally, you will probably need to bleed the system. Diesel units have a hard time expelling air, and will take a while to start. Avoid the temptation of starter fluid. Starter fluid destroys these engines! Wash out your fuel cell with Diesel, fill it at least 2/3 way full, bleed the system by using the water separation nozzle, and then crank away at 5-7 second intervals "on" and 20 seconds "off" to allow the starter to cool. It takes a while.

This forum has the Technical Manuals for free in its own forum area. Those are the TM Action was referring you to. Maybe you knew that, but when I first got here I had no idea what TM stood for, (maybe I'm just thick).

And a belated WELCOME. I hope you enjoy your rig.

T
 
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Miscexpense

Member
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6
Location
Alabama
Holy cow, talk about being humbled. You guys are in my debt. I’m glad I posted those questions you have pointed me towards things I would have missed. TOBASH, Your not thick, “TM” had me scratching my head for a bit. I’m not familiar with anything but gas burners so this has been a challenge to say the least.

I already ordered the fuel level sender ( new style 5716625), oil and air filters. Battery wise I’m going run over to a big box store and get a couple of interstate ones to start off with. Looks like I have a few extra tools and

Again, thank you!!!!
 

BLK HMMWV

Well-known member
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Location
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So it's your first diesel?
When it does fire and run to you it's going to sound like it's about to fall apart. Or it's out of oil.
Standard for these things.
When you experience the cooling fan coming on around 210-220 degrees for the first time you will think WTF is that ?
Also a standard reaction.
It's the gift that keeps on giving, and taking , soon you will be broke like the rest of us.
The site does have a very good search feature.
I know the truck is new to you but there probably isn't a question that hasn't been asked before so try a search.
Welcome to the dark side.
 

Miscexpense

Member
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Location
Alabama
BLK HMMWV, The searching is getting better, my problem is not truly knowing the terminology on what to search for. Amen to being broke. My first load of parts was a "doozy".

Action, I was worried about the airbox as well. For good reason too, I unsealed it this morning and it was 3/4 full of water. I was able to get the corroded and rusted wing nut off, but the filter is stuck (probably glued in with muck). I plan on drilling and screwing in a couple of screws to extract it. Or am I missing a step for it to come out?
 

Wire Fox

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Indianapolis, Indiana
BLK HMMWV, The searching is getting better, my problem is not truly knowing the terminology on what to search for. Amen to being broke. My first load of parts was a "doozy".

Action, I was worried about the airbox as well. For good reason too, I unsealed it this morning and it was 3/4 full of water. I was able to get the corroded and rusted wing nut off, but the filter is stuck (probably glued in with muck). I plan on drilling and screwing in a couple of screws to extract it. Or am I missing a step for it to come out?
That wing nut should be the only thing holding it in. it might be worth tapping the edges of the filter with a light mallet to try and pop free any corrosion that may have formed from the back of the filter to the housing, but there's supposed to be a non-metallic ring back there preventing just that from happening. Also...I'm not surprised that your airbox had water in it, but I am surprised that it was holding that much​ water. It has a duck bill-looking rubber piece at the bottom of the air box that is intended for you to squeeze periodically to drop dust out of the box...that should have released water as it filled in. Since it didn't, it either clogged (most likely) or it was replaced with a cap, which is what's used for water fording.
 

Miscexpense

Member
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6
Location
Alabama
Wire Fox: Thank you. It did have a cap on the bottom. I tapped and tried to be as gentle as possible, but ended up drilling in and attaching a "T" handle to it to get it out. Good thing I had an air filter coming, the pleated filter was dissolved. All in all, I had a fairly productive day of learning as I go. The fuel system is next. I'm thinking I might post a new thread just on that set of questions.
 

Miscexpense

Member
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Location
Alabama
Fuel system assistance

This is a 1043A2 that I posted on after it arrived.

The fuel system is the next hurdle. It was missing the fuel sending unit, which left an open hole to the fuel tank for dirt and water. My first question is, what is the best way to clean out the tank without dropping it. Or am I just dodging the inevitable?

Once that is done I should be able to change the fuel filter, install the sending unit and find out how to prime the fuel system. On that note, priming is my second question. Are there any tips or tricks I should know about completing that part.

Thanks, guys!!
 

Milcommoguy

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Not knowing where this truck as been and water loaded up in the intake... How does one know it wasn't under water in the mud up to the windshield? Might want to think about pulling the glow plugs and cranking it to ?? Avoid a hydro-lock condition. Good time to test plugs too. Take a look at the inside of intake horn for crud also. Lots to think about when not having ANY history on old trucks.

How many times have we read, water in the PBC box, water pored out of hub, water rusted out frame rails, turn signal lights or controller more water, water in the fuel tank... Duh. Water, water everywhere. New model the "USS HMMWV" sold as a desert truck, fresh from Barstow. HAha.

Drain, flush, clean, INSPECT, fill and check.

Looks good on the outside, rusted on the inside.

CAMO
 
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papakb

Well-known member
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San Jose, Ca
Fuel tanks aren't that expensive to replace and if your worried that yours might be contaminated that might be the way to go. I don't think there's a good way to guarantee that your tank is clean without dropping it. Yes, it's a bit of work but knowing that it's clean will ease your conscience considerably. While your working on it it might be a good time to replace the tank drain plug. They do age and weep after a while.

There are several methods of repriming the fuel system and you don't want to run the starter for long periods to do it that way. I built a priming system that I think is simple, easy. and fast that uses a small aquarium pump as a vacuum pump and a mason jar as a collector. Simply connect the mason jar to the outlet of the fuel filter and turn it on! Within 15-20 seconds you'll have fuel coming into the mason jar and the system is primed!.

Fuel system primer.JPG
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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This is a 1043A2 that I posted on after it arrived.

The fuel system is the next hurdle. It was missing the fuel sending unit, which left an open hole to the fuel tank for dirt and water. My first question is, what is the best way to clean out the tank without dropping it. Or am I just dodging the inevitable?

Once that is done I should be able to change the fuel filter, install the sending unit and find out how to prime the fuel system. On that note, priming is my second question. Are there any tips or tricks I should know about completing that part.

Thanks, guys!!
Dropping is the best way. Period.

Next best is disconnect fuel lines and drain Diesel fuel. Next powerwash and then vacuum out water with wet vac. Then use compressed air to dry the system. Let sit for a few days to allow water to evaporate. Then use a borescope to look inside and confirm clean and dry. BETTER TO DROP TANK.

Dropping allows taping off all nozzles and wholes and shaking detergent everywhere. Also is best for rinsing out soap and crap afterwards.

Dropping works out to be easiest in the end.

IMHO

T

EDIT - This post should probably be merged with your initial post as it is essentially about the same thing.
 
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Lionel

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SPINDLE NUTS!!!!
Pretty sure the A2's are OK, but I still verify every one I get. Your spindle nuts are probably secured by the newer lock washers but, I would pull each hub cover to check to be sure, or at least try to get and inspection cam in there to verify. I've seen two HMMWV's on the side of the road this year missing an entire rotating assembly (both rear). One did no damage (not sure how), the other ripped the biggest portion of the left rear wheelhouse off.
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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Zimmerman MN
So it's your first diesel?
When it does fire and run to you it's going to sound like it's about to fall apart. Or it's out of oil.
Standard for these things.
When you experience the cooling fan coming on around 210-220 degrees for the first time you will think WTF is that ?
Also a standard reaction.
It's the gift that keeps on giving, and taking , soon you will be broke like the rest of us.
The site does have a very good search feature.
I know the truck is new to you but there probably isn't a question that hasn't been asked before so try a search.
Welcome to the dark side.
HAHAHA It still makes me jump almost everytime....
 
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