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Thread: 5-ton NHC250 Injector Pump

  1. #11
    I'm the dude, man. Steel Soldiers Vendor simp5782's Avatar
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    Yes. Make sure to install a new rubber or plastic spider. The pump shop should give you one.

    Yes. Most solenoids are just 1 pole and not 2 poles. If it wasn't hooked up right it would not run.
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  3. #12
    4 Star General sandcobra164's Avatar
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    Bottom set of wires is for the ether start. It won't allow a shot of ether unless there is fuel pressure inside the pump which only occurs when the pump is primed and the engine is turning over. The only wire on top would be the one wire going to the fuel shut off solenoid. There is no timing involved with the pump. You should have a rubber ring with 6 ears on it that came out with the pump or is still on the back side of the air compressor. Make sure that is in place when you re-install the pump. Think of the pump itself as a booster/metering pump. Injection timing is controlled by the camshaft, the pump only controls how much fuel is available to be injected on a Pressure Timed (PT) fuel system on these trucks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by captcarc View Post
    Thanks! I've removed the pump...fairly easy...found a place in East Texas and will drive it there tomorrow for rebuild. Then I'll need help to reinstall/time it. Thanks again!!!
    Hey I am in Tyler and need my pump rebuilt on my M813, where in east Texas did you go and what was the cost for everything? Thanks

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    Sergeant Major captcarc's Avatar
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    Finally got 5-ton running quite well with the rebuilt injector pump. Thanks for everyone's input. The only problem now is that I connected wires 54 and 54A onto the BOTTOM of the two injector pump solenoid poles and was rewarded with a lot of exciting smoke in the engine compartment and inside the cab when the ignition switch was turned on. (A previous mechanic had disconnected those wires so I didn't know which pole to connect them to.) Several people had told me the bottom pole, but now it seems that the top would have been correct. Everything seems to be fine but have to turn off the truck manually. Any quick tips on what 54 and 54A connect to from the solenoid? Thanks!

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    4 Star General M35A2-AZ's Avatar
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    54 goes to the fuel Solenoid, 54A goes to the STE/ICE Diagnostic Connector. They both have 24v on them when you turn the truck on.
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    Sergeant Major captcarc's Avatar
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    Thanks. 54 and 54A are tied together and connect to the injector pump solenoid. I need to know where each of those connect from there, please. Thanks!

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    I'm the dude, man. Steel Soldiers Vendor simp5782's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by captcarc View Post
    Thanks. 54 and 54A are tied together and connect to the injector pump solenoid. I need to know where each of those connect from there, please. Thanks!
    They go to the starter switch in the cab.... They T after that and the 3amp ABS fuse (yellow wire) is branched off from that along with 54a that goes to the STE and to the solenoid If you torched the wire. Just run a new one from the Switch or after the ABS link in and go from there out under the hood... OR if you want another anti theft add a switch and have that as its own switch to power the solenoid up before starting.
    2008 F-250 6.4L Powerstroke
    1984 AM General M923A1 ( Big Cam III NTC-400, HT3B turbo, Intercooled, #15 button, Dual fuel Line setup - MRAP Aluminum Radiator - 8" Ram Air Intake system - Dual 115 gallon tanks - Air Conditioning - 145amp alternator - Puradyn Oil Bypass system, CAT 7155 16speed transmission, Oshkosh 55000 Transfer Case, riding on 16.00 AT-3s on HEMTT wheels. )
    83' M923A1
    M796 Bolster
    M322 Equipment Trailer
    MEP-804A


    901-318-8353 for Help in and or around the Memphis area or transporting in the southeast. Text me first before calling.

    Tires (HMMWV, 395s, 1600s) and Transportation Vendor

    Wes

    Videos at https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=5782simp

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTd...D4dOJidPFnmYGA

  10. #18
    Sergeant Major captcarc's Avatar
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    Thanks simp5782! I'll probably check back in with you after I pull that starter switch and look at the fried wires. From what you're saying, it sounds like I could run a 24v hot all the way from the batteries to the solenoid with a switch in between. With my torched wires, I wonder if my ABS is now nonfunctional. Frank

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    Sergeant Major captcarc's Avatar
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    Pulled starter switch and everything looked good. Looked under dash and found 54 burnt through. Replaced 54 from just before the T back to the solenoid. Now, switch powers voltmeter in dash when closed, which is a positive step, but solenoid is still non-operational. Pulled 3amp inline fuse near T and it looked OK. Do I have to reroute 54A (also burnt through at solenoid) to return solenoid to functional operation? Suggestions? Thanks!

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