Has anyone sourced the MEP803a generator end bearing?

For the guys here who have rebuilt or changed out generator heads, have any of you successfully found a source for the end bearing on the 803a?

I might be tearing this generator head down in the future, I will be in need of a replacement.

Has anyone here cross referenced the part # 510-0112, NSN 3110-01-160-9663 ??

Item 20 of Figure 24 in the parts manual, or found it by dimensions?

Thanks in advance!

Dumping 'Onan 510-0112' into a search browser will take care of it for you, at least this time.

Thanks Light, much appreciated!!

Swapping the main gen is easy. And after the first one, you will be able to to it alone, in a snap. Remove the entire rear end in one piece.

Update:
I did a little shopping around here locally and found a place that stocks the bearing.

It cross references to a KML BEARING, #6305-2RS

DIMENSIONS:

25mm ID

62mm OD

17mm tall/thickness

The suffix denotes seal type (2RS) is 2 rubber seals. They are available with metal seals also but I didn't get the suffix for that.

$6.27 each plus shipping, email sales@indfassupply.com I have no monetary interest in this, just passing on the info for those who might need it.

Thanks for the replies,

When you put the bearing on, warm it up. It should slide right on, like a glove.

Guyfang said:

When you put the bearing on, warm it up. It should slide right on, like a glove.

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Ok, will do.

Would you recommend loctite on the outer race or leave both dry?

I never used loctite on the race. I left both dry. I once struggled with one that someone had used loctite on. What a pain.

Looks like you already found your answer, and yes that is the correct part number. Looks like I forgot to put the part number in my thread regarding replacement. See: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...al-replaceable-without-pulling-top&highlight=


I have used both the 6305-2RS and whatever the part number is for metal seals. Cant remember that one but I know the local bearing shop said it wasnt common.

Guyfang said:

I never used loctite on the race. I left both dry. I once struggled with one that someone had used loctite on. What a pain.

Click to expand...

Ok, then it goes in dry. Thanks for the advice. I will keep the board updated as to my progress on this set and share any anomalies that I find along the way and try to take and post photos of things to aid others in the future.

So far its been an educational and worthwhile adventure.....even if its a bit frustrating at times. This board is invaluable and I want to express my sincere appreciation for everyone here.

Heres that alternate part number I found. 305SS



And some other goodie pictures:

Demoh said:

Heres that alternate part number I found. 305SS

View attachment 751758

And some other goodie pictures:
View attachment 751759View attachment 751760View attachment 751761

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Excellent pictures!!

That is exactly what I was looking for.

Thank You!!

My set has very similar dirt deposits inside, its due for a good but gentle cleaning.

Did you coat the rotor and stators after cleaning the crud off?

Nope, only cleaning. For something like that I am sure I could make it worse so if I had any concerns the insulation was compromised I would have sent it to a motor shop. The existing coating looked ok. This particular one had a trashed engine so I grabbed a mint 400hz unit to throw this genhead on. (which is now my primary unit, I dont need the nameplate to match.) The carcass of this went to my friend's house and is now a table with a refrigerator in it.

Demoh said:

Nope, only cleaning. For something like that I am sure I could make it worse so if I had any concerns the insulation was compromised I would have sent it to a motor shop. The existing coating looked ok. This particular one had a trashed engine so I grabbed a mint 400hz unit to throw this genhead on. (which is now my primary unit, I dont need the nameplate to match.) The carcass of this went to my friend's house and is now a table with a refrigerator in it.

Click to expand...

Ok.

I will determine whether mine needs a light coat of spray clear enamel after cleaning. Thanks for all your advice.

Picked up my new stators yesterday.......thats right NEW IN THE CRATES. Metered the winding pairs out end to end all @ (.4 ohms) and winding to ground/case. All windings in spec and no shorts to case.

Now hoping for some dry weather to install. Will post pics of progress on disassembly and reassembly.

Farmitall said:

Picked up my new stators yesterday.......thats right NEW IN THE CRATES. Metered the winding pairs out end to end all @ (.4 ohms) and winding to ground/case. All windings in spec and no shorts to case.

Now hoping for some dry weather to install. Will post pics of progress on disassembly and reassembly.

Click to expand...

And where would a guy search for new crated stators?

A nice thread on the bearing. I have a new to me 803A and I have just gotten her up and running. There is what I think to be a bearing noise that could be that bearing. Interesting that when I adjust the frequency a bit, the noise goes completely away. But then seems to return after several minutes. Does this behavior jive with anyones experience who has replaced that bearing?

dav5 said:

And where would a guy search for new crated stators?

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When I purchased mine, I searched ebay and they happenned to be a couple of hour's driving distance away so I drove and picked them up.
An ad on this board might net you a serviceable one from someone parting out a set if you are in need of one.

rvsuper8 said:

A nice thread on the bearing. I have a new to me 803A and I have just gotten her up and running. There is what I think to be a bearing noise that could be that bearing. Interesting that when I adjust the frequency a bit, the noise goes completely away. But then seems to return after several minutes. Does this behavior jive with anyones experience who has replaced that bearing?

Click to expand...

Yes, I've experienced what you are hearing. Be sure to check out all sources of the case and doors rattling too.

The bearing is actually common and available. Any well stocked bearing supplier should have them.

FYI, when you go to change the bearing you will most likely find that it is pressed onto the rotor but slips relatively easily into the end housing.
When you go to install, do as guy mentioned, warm the bearing up a bit, but not enough to cook the grease or the rubber seals.
Having the rotor as cold as possible is also helpful, but you should be able to tap it onto the rotor shaft pretty easily.
If you have difficulty getting the old bearing off, slice through the inner race with a cut-off wheel. Cut diagonally so you get the maximum amount cut without hitting anything. Take a chisel and tap it into the slot you cut and the race ( being hardened steel ) will easily crack the rest of the way through and come right off.