M35A2 Parking brake shoe rivet tool?

Mrmag1 · Dec 17, 2018

So I have looked through the arcives of old posts (finding more and more 404 errors as of late) and cannot find a tool or a link to a tool to use on my parking brake shoe rivets. I got a new set of brake shoe liners with rivets from big Mike's motor pool with rivets. My problem is I have no idea how to rivet these or the size of tool etc. Not the first time this has happened but I'm am lost as heck.

porkysplace · Dec 17, 2018

Mrmag1 said:
So I have looked through the arcives of old posts (finding more and more 404 errors as of late) and cannot find a tool or a link to a tool to use on my parking brake shoe rivets. I got a new set of brake shoe liners with rivets from big Mike's motor pool with rivets. My problem is I have no idea how to rivet these or the size of tool etc. Not the first time this has happened but I'm am lost as heck.

Take it Fleetpride or similar and have them do it . This is the correct machine for the rivets.
If they are not tight enough it will crak the lining . I used to rieline bands for cable cranes and there isn't much room for error.
https://www.nationalrivet.com/brake-clutch-machines.htm

TGP (IL) · Dec 17, 2018

You can punch out the old rivets or drill.

Then you need a rivet punch and backing anvil for setting the new ones.

Proper method is a rivet machine.

Best method for a shade tree wrench is find a clutch or brake rebuilder
And have them rivet on for you.

frank8003 · Dec 17, 2018

look in here.........................

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162866-M35A2-Parking-Brake

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?139001-Parking-Brake-Rivets

Mrmag1 · Dec 17, 2018

Yeah read both of those, I was hoping to find a cheap tool but if I have to pay a shop then I guess I will...... Ahhhh

tobyS · Dec 18, 2018

Cut off a bolt that is the size of the rivet head and clamp it in your vice for the anvil side. There are punches for the rounding of the rivet head but you can get it started with a center punch. Take your time and try to limit the side splitting, some can be expected.

I wouldn't try pre-drilling the holes unless you know you'll have them in the right place. I work from the center out so it tightens as you go.

I use slow set epoxy myself to make sure it stays in place later.

We used to re-line a lot of brake shoes at the auto parts store...it's not hard at all. Most are simply glued now.

Flyingvan911 · Dec 18, 2018

I second taking them to a shop. That machine looks expensive. Having a shop do it takes most of the liability off of you if something goes wrong and the shoe/lining causes an accident.

Scrounger · Dec 18, 2018

As already posted if you have a shop nearby that has the tooling that is the best option. However, if you have a few basic tools and a vice it is not difficult to R&R brake linings, especially if the linings are predrilled. It helps to have soldier B when one doesn’t have the “big” machines.

To remove the old rivets, position the shoe with lining down over the open jaws of the vice. Take a punch and drive out the rivets, this is where soldier B comes in handy. Clean the metal up with a wire brush or a wire wheel on a bench grinder if you have one. To install the new rivets takes an “anvil” and a couple of punches. A metal rod the size of the rivet held upright in the vise works well. As already posted start the rivet with a center punch and finish with a regular punch. There are actual hand rivet punches that are not very expensive. As also already posted start installing the rivets center out. If the linings are not predrilled, it’s getting into take them to a shop time.

porkysplace · Dec 18, 2018

Scrounger said:
As already posted if you have a shop nearby that has the tooling that is the best option. However, if you have a few basic tools and a vice it is not difficult to R&R brake linings, especially if the linings are predrilled. It helps to have soldier B when one doesn’t have the “big” machines.

To remove the old rivets, position the shoe with lining down over the open jaws of the vice. Take a punch and drive out the rivets, this is where soldier B comes in handy. Clean the metal up with a wire brush or a wire wheel on a bench grinder if you have one. To install the new rivets takes an “anvil” and a couple of punches. A metal rod the size of the rivet held upright in the vise works well. As already posted start the rivet with a center punch and finish with a regular punch. There are actual hand rivet punches that are not very expensive. As also already posted start installing the rivets center out. If the linings are not predrilled, it’s getting into take them to a shop time.

The thing is by the time you buy the correct hand tools and the linings , If you don't get the rivet tight enough or damage the lining
it would have been cheaper to have someone with the correct rivet machine do them.

Scrounger · Dec 18, 2018

porkysplace said:
The thing is by the time you buy the correct hand tools and the linings , If you don't get the rivet tight enough or damage the lining
it would have been cheaper to have someone with the correct rivet machine do them.

It all depends on what your time is worth. Just doing a quick check online for parking brake sets ready to go ran from around $180 to over $259. Linings are available for under $30 and hand rivet tools sets are under $10.

On a different note. Parking brakes and that is what they are and not emergency brakes, should never wear out. They should only be applied when the vehicle is stopped. If there is no motion when the brakes are applied, they should never have any wear. If used appropriately age will cause the linings to deteriorate or the rivets to corrode before they wear out.

gimpyrobb · Dec 18, 2018

Yeah, cause ive never had one stick after a spring breaks or have someone drive off with the brake left on, cause they never use thier's...

Scrounger · Dec 18, 2018

gimpyrobb said:
Yeah, cause ive never had one stick after a spring breaks or have someone drive off with the brake left on, cause they never use thier's...

You are 100% correct. If everything was perfect, they would last a long time, what do they say about the best laid plans of mice and men.

My point was they shouldn’t wear out unless used improperly.

porkysplace · Dec 18, 2018

Scrounger said:
It all depends on what your time is worth. Just doing a quick check online for parking brake sets ready to go ran from around $180 to over $259. Linings are available for under $30 and hand rivet tools sets are under $10.

On a different note. Parking brakes and that is what they are and not emergency brakes, should never wear out. They should only be applied when the vehicle is stopped. If there is no motion when the brakes are applied, they should never have any wear. If used appropriately age will cause the linings to deteriorate or the rivets to corrode before they wear out.

The last ones I had done it was like $10 to have them done right.

rustystud · Dec 19, 2018

porkysplace said:
The last ones I had done it was like $10 to have them done right.

I agree it is better to have a shop do it. I have the special tools and they cost more then $10.00. More like $250.00 for the different punches needed. They are all special sizes and shapes for the different types of rivets. Then there is the learning curve. How many linings are you going to go through before you get a good one. When I was doing brakes at the transit dept. I would always get a few broken until I got the hang of it again. Since I didn't continually work on the brakes I always had to "relearn" each time. There is a "feel" to it unless you get a "rivet machine" set-up to do them. I own a rivet machine and I bought it used. It still cost me over $1000.00 . You can use the hand riveters, but then your back to the "Feel" method again. So in all honesty take the brake shoes to a shop. So much cheaper.

Scrounger · Dec 19, 2018

rustystud said:
I agree it is better to have a shop do it. I have the special tools and they cost more then $10.00. More like $250.00 for the different punches needed. They are all special sizes and shapes for the different types of rivets. Then there is the learning curve. How many linings are you going to go through before you get a good one. When I was doing brakes at the transit dept. I would always get a few broken until I got the hang of it again. Since I didn't continually work on the brakes I always had to "relearn" each time. There is a "feel" to it unless you get a "rivet machine" set-up to do them. I own a rivet machine and I bought it used. It still cost me over $1000.00 . You can use the hand riveters, but then your back to the "Feel" method again. So in all honesty take the brake shoes to a shop. So much cheaper.

As already posted taking it to a shop is the best option. Relining brakes with hand tools is the least preferred way to do it. I have a floor mounted press with tooling for handling brake relining and clutch disks and wouldn’t want to think of what it would cost to replace. Everyone has different circumstances. For me it is at least two hours round trip to the nearest shop that will do relining, and they don’t do the work while you wait. Only Mrmag1 knows his circumstances and ultimately has to make the decision for his needs.

Mrmag1 · Dec 19, 2018

Seems like when I return from leave I'm taking them to a shop.

M35A2 Parking brake shoe rivet tool?

More options

Mrmag1

Head of Stuff N' Things

porkysplace

Well-known member

TGP (IL)

Active member

frank8003

In Memorial

Mrmag1

Head of Stuff N' Things

tobyS

Well-known member

Flyingvan911

Well-known member

Scrounger

Active member

porkysplace

Well-known member

Scrounger

Active member

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!

Scrounger

Active member

porkysplace

Well-known member

rustystud

Well-known member

Scrounger

Active member

Mrmag1

Head of Stuff N' Things