it looks like the driver side axle mount is pushed back

**319cssb** · 02-09-2019, 14:33

I took inspiration in sneekyeyes thead and since i have a similar issue i want to start my own to not get replies confused or jumbled up.

My left axle is back toward the fender by about an inch and a half. My steering wheel is off center. The truck drives kind of wonky but that can have other issues like shocks and lead spring bushes. Ill go through it all but i want to tackle one issue at a time.

I meassured from the right rear tire at a certain height to the front hub and this is how i measured the difference between left and right front axle. You can also see it with the naked eye.

so how do i remedy this? Take the sway bar off. Lift the truck by the frame. Take off front wheel. Losen axle shackle bolts on the left axle and then? Use q BFH and move the axle forward or strap to a come along and do it that way?
Has anyone had this issue?

**doghead** · 02-09-2019, 15:16

Merged your original thread with today's new one.

Please do not start multiple threads on the same topic(especially your own).

**319cssb** · 02-09-2019, 17:00

So I took a few photo's maybe they will illustrate the situation a bit better.

IMG_4927.jpg
this photo above is the passenger side
IMG_4928.jpg
This picture above is the driver side.
IMG_4929.jpg
I measured from the passenger rear tire lip at 14" above the ground and got 100 1/2" between rear tire and the edge of the front wheel hub. On the driver side it was only 99" as you can see.
The wheels were straight. The steering wheel isn't.

**nyoffroad** · 02-09-2019, 20:11

Your on the right road but your kinda getting ahead of yourself, now that you know you have a problem you now need to find exactly where it is. To do that you need to start by taking some X measurement's from the same place on one side the repeating the SAME place on the other side. Lets say you start at the front of the left rear spring hanger at the lowest rivet and measure across to the rear of the right hanger and get (WAG) 89.5" and then do the exact reverse and come up with the same 89.5". Then you know the problem is in front of that and measure accordingly. The longer the measurement the easier it is to see the difference. It helps to have a helper and doing this can quickly find or eliminate frame damage. Hopefully all will be the same until you get to the springs and you find worn bushings or sheared pin.

**319cssb** · 02-12-2019, 09:11

What if i start by checking the spring locating pin first? If it is sheered the i know that i have an issue right there.
Do i have to clamp the springs or can i take the u bolts off with weight on the axle and peak under the top bracket?

**cucvrus** · 02-12-2019, 11:36

You can take the U bolts off and jack the weight of the truck off the spring pack. You are going to need to get an eye ball up in that area to inspect the centering pin. Also the axle could be bent. That is the long side of the axle. I doubt it but it is possible. I had Dana 60 axles snap in half after an impact.

**sneekyeye** · 02-12-2019, 17:20

A tip from a guy who just did this, you can jack it up by the front axle and put large jack stands under the frame near the trans cross member. Then let the axle drop to get a lot more room for the top nuts. Make sure the sway bar is connected when you start to torque down the u bolts, or you'll probably have to do it twice if it doesn't line back up. Just support it with the jack and it wont fall when you remove all the nuts. If the center bolt is broken, your springs will probably come apart when you loosen the u bolts. Hopefully its something obvious, unlike mine. I'm still fiddling with it trying to find an issue.

Leaf spring center bolts are pretty cheap, the o'Reilly around here has them in stock, and autozone too. You'll have to cut them down.

**cucvrus** · 02-12-2019, 18:01

DSCF5021.jpgA new set of leaf springs will cost a bit but well worth the effort. Trust me I have been putting them on several of the CUCV's I rebuilt. Amazing what difference 30 year newer springs make. DSCF5022.jpg DSCF5023.jpg

**nyoffroad** · 02-12-2019, 19:11

Originally Posted by cucvrus

DSCF5021.jpgA new set of leaf springs will cost a bit but well worth the effort. Trust me I have been putting them on several of the CUCV's I rebuilt. Amazing what difference 30 year newer springs make. DSCF5022.jpg DSCF5023.jpg

You can say that again! Put new ones on mine and even with the plow raised in still sits higher than before WITHOUT the plow. Rides better too.

**319cssb** · 02-12-2019, 19:30

What I plan on doing is this:
Get the bottle jack from the LMTV jack up the body high enough and secure with a large jack stand.
Get two c clamps put them on the springs.
Losen the U-clamp bolts.
Take off the sway bar at the frame.
Take off the drive side wheel.
Use another jack to support the axle.
take off the U-clamp
Drop the axle until the pin becomes visible. replace if broken.
Not sure if the c-clamp will do much good, since I strongly suspect that the locating pin is sheered. But It'll probably make things easier if it is. Not sure never done this before.

Any suggestions?

I'll shop for new springs